743B new weird loud squeak @ low RPM

[jim743]

I had just finished pulling it out of the shop after some repairs. And now have a new squeak at low idle. I am having a tough time pinpointing the location, but if I push any direction on the engine it stops. Place a pry bar under the engine plate and apply a little pressure and it goes away. At first glance the rubber engine mounts look good. If I grab a good solid hold of the engine and shake it hard, I can feel something loose. Rear mounting plate appears tight. Seems to be coming from the rear of the engine. Any common issues with broken engine plates, mounts or coupler? I had washed the pumps ,motor and engine down. Thanks

 

[antfarmer2]

My gusse is that you had the engine out or loose with it blocked up from the body and not from the axles and it is rubbing the fan shroud put it on the wheels and loosen the engine mounts a bit and bump it and let it fix itself

 

[OldMachinist]

My gusse is that you had the engine out or loose with it blocked up from the body and not from the axles and it is rubbing the fan shroud put it on the wheels and loosen the engine mounts a bit and bump it and let it fix itself

Maybe you washed the grease out of the engine/pump coupling u-joints. Did you grease it after washing?

 

[antfarmer2]

My gusse is that you had the engine out or loose with it blocked up from the body and not from the axles and it is rubbing the fan shroud put it on the wheels and loosen the engine mounts a bit and bump it and let it fix itself

Reread I would pull the engine and change the ujoints hundred bucks and two hours can cost alot more if they grenade loaderpartsource or least grease them

 

[antfarmer2]

Reread I would pull the engine and change the ujoints hundred bucks and two hours can cost alot more if they grenade loaderpartsource or least grease them

Lol OM coke

 

[jim743]

My gusse is that you had the engine out or loose with it blocked up from the body and not from the axles and it is rubbing the fan shroud put it on the wheels and loosen the engine mounts a bit and bump it and let it fix itself

The only thing I did to it engine related was change #2 injector line. Other than that, I changed the seals on the lift cylinders , then washed down the oil leaks along the inner fenders and main pump area under the cab.

 

[jim743]

The only thing I did to it engine related was change #2 injector line. Other than that, I changed the seals on the lift cylinders , then washed down the oil leaks along the inner fenders and main pump area under the cab.

I was thinking about the coupler..........I was going to try and grease it. It looked quite inaccessible and decided to leave it. I couldn't even see the coupler, so washing out the grease on the coupler would seem unlikely.......but not impossible. If I pick up the RPM a little, it goes away, and is quiet to full throttle. But the noise wasn't there prior to washing it. I guess I should bring it back in the shop and try greasing the U-joints/coupler.

 

[antfarmer2]

The only thing I did to it engine related was change #2 injector line. Other than that, I changed the seals on the lift cylinders , then washed down the oil leaks along the inner fenders and main pump area under the cab.

Sounds like the ujoints try to grease them and hope for the best I tryed to grease mine could not get my arm in there so I changed them if it gets worse do not use!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[jim743]

It sounds like something broke and is wearing metal on metal. Maybe it had be broken before and had been covered in oil from the leaking cylinders, and now the oil is washed away. May have to pull the engine and inspect.

 

[antfarmer2]

It sounds like something broke and is wearing metal on metal. Maybe it had be broken before and had been covered in oil from the leaking cylinders, and now the oil is washed away. May have to pull the engine and inspect.

Pull the engine and replace much cheaper

 

[antfarmer2]

Pull the engine and replace much cheaper

While your in there pull the rad and oil cooler and clean then pull the plastic shroud and check the steel lines the two that cross on the bottom right side of center are bad for leaks where they cross

 

[antfarmer2]

While your in there pull the rad and oil cooler and clean then pull the plastic shroud and check the steel lines the two that cross on the bottom right side of center are bad for leaks where they cross

They say you can grease the three zerks by laying on the pump and having someone turn the engine while your right arm looks for the fittings you will need two foot or better of hose to do this good luck my arm would not fit

 

[jerry]

They say you can grease the three zerks by laying on the pump and having someone turn the engine while your right arm looks for the fittings you will need two foot or better of hose to do this good luck my arm would not fit

I used to grease the 632 which is almost the same frame machine with a 12 inch hose on the gun. Lie on a old couch cushion or thick blanket on top of the pump and use a mirror to position the joint right first. Seems like it was about 10 o clock on my left hand side that worked.

 

[Tazza]

I used to grease the 632 which is almost the same frame machine with a 12 inch hose on the gun. Lie on a old couch cushion or thick blanket on top of the pump and use a mirror to position the joint right first. Seems like it was about 10 o clock on my left hand side that worked.

Could it be as simple as the engine sliding over the engine mounts making noise? as you said it stops when you put a bar under it. Possibly oil or junk being washed under a mount or something.

 

[jim743]

Could it be as simple as the engine sliding over the engine mounts making noise? as you said it stops when you put a bar under it. Possibly oil or junk being washed under a mount or something.

I managed to grease the coupler today. I ran it in the shops for a couple of minutes and seems to have cured the issue. Will have to see if it returns after running for a longer period of time. I really do not want to remove the engine. I would think that coupler would be a bit of a nightmare to line up back in the pump....... with all that room to work with. Hopefully it won't come to that. Thanks

 

[antfarmer2]

I managed to grease the coupler today. I ran it in the shops for a couple of minutes and seems to have cured the issue. Will have to see if it returns after running for a longer period of time. I really do not want to remove the engine. I would think that coupler would be a bit of a nightmare to line up back in the pump....... with all that room to work with. Hopefully it won't come to that. Thanks

I just did my 743 I pulled the rad and oil cooler needed cleaning bad slid the engine in first piece of cake by myself

 

[OldMachinist]

I just did my 743 I pulled the rad and oil cooler needed cleaning bad slid the engine in first piece of cake by myself

You should plan on pulling the engine and inspecting the u-joints and coupling sometime in the near future. If the u-joints fail completely it will be very expensive to repair.

 

[antfarmer2]

You should plan on pulling the engine and inspecting the u-joints and coupling sometime in the near future. If the u-joints fail completely it will be very expensive to repair.

And you can get them from loaderscourseparts for under a hundred bucks but look closely at the bolts I had to buy four shorter bolts they put them in a bind

 

[Tazza]

And you can get them from loaderscourseparts for under a hundred bucks but look closely at the bolts I had to buy four shorter bolts they put them in a bind

Lining the coupler up again isn't as bad as you may think.
Cab up in the air, have a helper slowly bar the engine forward while you lay on the pump holding the coupler up. Never get your finger between the two, it may remove parts of your hand that you'd rather not. If they don't quite line up, get your helper to use a bar on the engine to rotate it slightly.
I managed to remove/replace and engine and replace the U-joints in about 3 hours. That was from running to running. It's not as hard as it may seem.