Hi, i just brought a 2003 753g for my property but i have a lot of play in plns that bolt to the arms where it bolts to the bucket are the pins hard to replace or there a easy way to do it. Does anyone know if any good bobcat mechanices in melbourne victoria Thanks Mark
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I'd start with new tapered pins, IF IF IF they will change fairly easily. Are the pins loose/wobbling in the arms? That's not real good, but at least they will then change easily. Bobcat dealers have a reamer you can use to true up the arms if not too bad. Back out the half-inch bolt (3/4 inch wrench) that hold the pins in about a quarter of an inch or so, then give the bolt a SHARP blow with a hammer. Hopefully the pin will move in. Move it in, remove the bobtach, get new pins, put them back into arms w a longer bolt,pull the pins bach into the arms, then secure the new pins with the correct length bolt. Put "never-seize" on the bolt threads. Ream the arms first if they need it. You can also shim out side-to side play between the arms and the bobtach. If the bobtach itself is really worn, since you are simply a property owner who will put limited hours on the machine, after installing new pins, I'd just grease the h*ll out of it often and live w it. If you are not good with a welder, torch, etc, you would be opening up a can of worms best left closed. All wear can be fixed, its just a matter of if it really matters for your use of the machine.
bobbie-g
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Check this thread for more info: Bobcat> General Repairs> Bushings on Bobtach plate ------ Sorry I can't get the formatting better, I'm using FireFox with HTML editing turned on, but still can't figure out how to do paragraphs. ----- A bit more info on the tapered pins that attach the bobtach plate to the arms: There is a large grease pocket inside the rotary "hubs" at the lower corners of the bobtach plate. Remove the zerks before trying to loosen the pins. This way the grease (you just hope there's lots of grease in there!) can escape through the fitting hole as the tapered pin is pushed out of the arm and into the hub. New tapered pins for my T180 were about US$23 each. ----- Iowa Dave, if I put Loctite on the bolts when I reassemble, they'll probably never work loose. But how do I remove them when I need to? The only thing holding the pin is the friction fit between the taper on the pins and in the arms. And the only way the thing ever will disassemble is if the bolt is unscrewed from the tapered pin and removed first. So how do I remove the bolt from the pin once the pin has been broken loose from the arm? Looks to me like it would be a nightmare if the bolt didn't turn freely in the pin. Since this is my home machine, I'm tempted to use no loctite and just keep an eye on the bolts. I already have another bolt on the engine of my 751 that wants to work loose, which I check every few hours.
----RCDave, yes the pins do wobble when i open the bucket. thanks for the info i will go to bobcat today and ask abour the reamer as for side to side movment there is none there is shims about 1/2inch thick in there all ready i dont think its the bobtach but i will pull it apart today and have a look. Thanks Mark
Mark, it depends on how worn it is. I know mine were pretty bad and i needed to cut the bosses out of the bobtach. Hopefully yours isn't that bad, but i suspect they may be.
I'm from Brisbane, so i'm not a whole lot of use, but i can give you tips on whats needed. If you need any info, look up my profile and send me an email.
Good luck!
No no no not LOCKTITE!!! Just the opposite!!! Never-seize or anti-seize is what we use in the states. You WANT to be able to disassemble at a later date. Locktite would be a major "BAD" move!!
Thanks guys did the job yesterday and it worked a treat. I used nickel anti seize on the bolts and castol lmm grease with molybond. Next job is to do the arm pins does anyone have the sizes for a 753 as i am going to make my own and i was told be tazza the are easy to make. Thanks all Mark
Hey Mark
It should al be 1.25" round stock. If you do go the 4140 route, the cheaper one is H11 i think, its about .005 to .008" smaller but for your machine it shouldn't be an issue.
As for lengths, just use a tape and see what yours are. The length isn't too critical. When drilling the holes, spin it a little slower, you don't want the chips to get too hot or they will harden up and dull the bit a little faster.
Hardening i was told heat to red, dunk in oil. Polish it up heat to a golden yellow then let it air cool to let the hardness go down a litle bit to prevent it from being too brittle.
