Hello

[Bonez]

OK, Ive read that points should be in the fully open position ( assuming TDC ) so if that is correct then I am good to go.... I hope.

 

[shankatank58]

So I dove into italthough I was hesitant to do so. Pulled the radiator and muscled the front cover as much as I could, found the timing marks and lined everything up... the first go the points were completely closed so it was 180 out, cranked it around and the gap was too tight so I adjusted it to .016. The spark plugs were also gapped too far so I adjusted them to .025
Now I need to get a battery so I can test the fuel pump and see if it will fire up... I cleaned up the cooling fins on the heads, the radiator is pretty rusted up in the fin area but not leaking, going to treat it to prevent further rusting for the time being.

Now that Im thinking about it.... was I supposed to set the points at .016 on the 20 degree mark or TDC.... as I adjusted it at TDC... hope I didnt goof it... otherwise I know what Im doing tomorrow.

.016" is @ the peak of the POINTS CAM lobe. That should be at or near TDC if I'm reading correctly(?) The gap will remain the same regardless of the timing once set. 20* is when they are just breaking (spark) Did you find the plate to be adjustable?

Just an aside: I've noticed Onan did go to an electronic ignition system for their 2 cyl. engines. Have no idea if it could be retrofitted to their earlier engines but might be worth investigating? If it would work and you could find something in a boneyard; might be worth doing. Otherwise aftermarket would surely be cheaper. Just food for thought.

Didn't see your last post. Yes I think you are good.

 

[foton]

I know the engine is different,I have a onan ccka 14 hp 2 cylinder opposed engine on a welder, and the magento went bad and is n.l.a. ,but it can be converted to a powered coil ingition pretty easily, and I assume if you have points that could be done to that engine also if need be.

 

[Bonez]

.016" is @ the peak of the POINTS CAM lobe. That should be at or near TDC if I'm reading correctly(?) The gap will remain the same regardless of the timing once set. 20* is when they are just breaking (spark) Did you find the plate to be adjustable?

Just an aside: I've noticed Onan did go to an electronic ignition system for their 2 cyl. engines. Have no idea if it could be retrofitted to their earlier engines but might be worth investigating? If it would work and you could find something in a boneyard; might be worth doing. Otherwise aftermarket would surely be cheaper. Just food for thought.

Didn't see your last post. Yes I think you are good.

Thanks, After I came in and settled down my mind got racing, and Im like, was I supposed to set the points at the 20* mark or TDC??? Then I re-read the files and the best I got was TDC.... so I was hoping I didnt have to tear this thing back apart as it was a PITA to get to some nuts and bolts besides no room to move the cover. Im afraid to remove some brackets as there is no access to the back side for the nuts and I have seen some YT videos where the nuts fall into the drive chain area and needs fished out... same with the cage bolts, I want to remove the cafe for easier access to work on the stuff but I dont want to get into where I dont need to yet.
Friday my parts should be here and Ill get some wiring cleaned up. New crimps, silicone wires and keyed ignition switch to eliminate the toggle that was installed ( Ill convert that over to some lighting or cooling fan switch later as a fan blowing to keep me cool would be nice )

 

[Bonez]

Today I replaced the deck belt on the zturn, then I started digging into replacing the key switch on the loader. The wiring was pretty butchered so I pulled the console off to clean it all up and do the connections properly... terminals on the switches were all rotted and broke off so ordering a few more replacements ( starter button, Light switch ) upgrading to weather proof switches.

Question since I dont have a schematic or clean picture of the wiring for the console. All the wires are just grouped together and twisted at one point, and I wondered, if instead if it would still work if I wired everything jumping from one connection to another then splice into the main harness (if that makes sense) so like the wire from the amp gauge jumps to the key switch then from the key switch to the starter button then jumps from the starter button to the hour meter then connects to the harness wire instead of 3 or 4 wires all connected at the harness wire? *** not an accurate description but just for the cluster of wires that are twisted together in the pics.**

 

[skidsteerforum]

Tearing the console off to redo those rotted terminals properly instead of just re-taping them is the right call and the weatherproof switches are a nice touch.

 

[Bonez]

Tearing the console off to redo those rotted terminals properly instead of just re-taping them is the right call and the weatherproof switches are a nice touch.

Agreed, besides the key switch was bypassed with a toggle, I bought a new key switch so its secured from unwanted tampering. The ignition switch would stick and the others were corroded pretty bad. As I tried to remove the switches the terminals were breaking off so I just decided to replace them all with new and clean up that rats nest of wires since there are some moving controls behind there that can rub the wires so I will put it in a loom as well for added protection.

 

[Bonez]

Question on tires. On my CL20 are 27x5.70-15NHS
Everything online says this machine uses 27 8.50-15

Now it also states the rims are reversable, as Ive measured and the offset is 1" from the mounting surface to the attachment of the center of the rim and is also 1.5" from the body of the machine to the tire, so if the rims were reversed the 8.5" tires will clear the body but close.
Also when looking for tires I can not find and 6" wide, only the 8.5" wide tires so Im just a bit confused but these tires look extremely skinny? The rims have to be 6" wide or maybe 5.5" wide as the current 6" tires are a tad wider than the rims where the new tires Im looking up everything shows 7" wide rims?
Just wanted to make sure the 27 8.50-15 will fit before ordering any as I cant find anything narrower anywhere.
Also searches online for the CL20 shows both wide and skinny tires on these machines ( and yes they show the CL20 decals so Im not mistaken the machine with CL30/40 ect... also showing the rims reversed as you can see the center offsets )

 

[Bonez]

Slowly finding out a bit on the CL20 from my FIL.... He stated that the battery didnt charge. He said it would start with a new or fully charged battery and after running awhile and shutting off , he couldnt restart it because the battery would be dead.... so I cant find anything online for the charging system or what to check? Does anyone have a wiring schematic ?

 

[Bonez]

Just curious what engine does is have in it?

Onan 2 cylinder 25hp

 

[Bonez]

I believe I found the charging issue but wont be able to test or proof it until I get a battery. I found this online, close to what it is... Tracing from the regulator/rectifier it goes into the terminal rail and jumps into the fuel pump and across to another wire , then there are 2 hots running up and ties into that cluster of twisted wires and the ammeter but nothing goes to the battery cable ( which I still need to check at the starter? If there is no wire connected at the starter on the battery cable then I know I need to jump from somewhere to the positive battery terminal to charge the battery..... where would I jump from, The power at the Ammeter thats coming from the reg/rec?

If this schematic is correct/close, can you draw a colored line that I need to connect to charge the battery? Thanks.

 

[MX727]

The line from the starter solenoid (B+, which is also connected to B+ on the rectifier) charges the battery when the engine is running.

 

[Bonez]

The line from the starter solenoid (B+, which is also connected to B+ on the rectifier) charges the battery when the engine is running.

Ok, I;; have to check that, Im not sure if theres a line running there from the rect.

 

[Bonez]

Ok, I traced and mapped out the current wiring of the machine, FIL says battery wasnt charging and going dead while using it years ago. Im a bit confused with all the wires that were twisted together ( wire nut drawing ) and where they go if its correct. I couldnt trace the other 2 wires from the rectifier as they went into a plastic sleeve and into the motor somewhere so thats why the 2 neon colors green and orange just end to the right at top. and the points just ground out ... so my question is, is this wiring correct from their respected locations and off the bus bar on top of the motor? Thanks.
* yes the red wire is connected onto the same terminal of the starter with the battery cable

 

[shankatank58]

Ok, I traced and mapped out the current wiring of the machine, FIL says battery wasnt charging and going dead while using it years ago. Im a bit confused with all the wires that were twisted together ( wire nut drawing ) and where they go if its correct. I couldnt trace the other 2 wires from the rectifier as they went into a plastic sleeve and into the motor somewhere so thats why the 2 neon colors green and orange just end to the right at top. and the points just ground out ... so my question is, is this wiring correct from their respected locations and off the bus bar on top of the motor? Thanks.
* yes the red wire is connected onto the same terminal of the starter with the battery cable

Looks like it should work.

First off your green and orange go to the stator (AC posts on their drawing)

Everything in the nut will be HOT with key on.

I would suggest a second terminal block at the panel to eliminate that nut and clean things up. A small fuse panel might be better depending on what you may want to add to it. Space permitting of coarse.

Either the red or yellow from nut to block could be eliminated by putting a short jumper on present terminal block. Just be sure to use heavy enough wire to carry both fuel pump and ignition coil.

Move the jumper with the fuse in it to the "feed" side of the block just to save confusion. (both ends)

Assuming you are using a key switch with a start position I would consider running that wire directly either to the starter or engine compartment block. The fewer connections the better on that one I feel. (just remember you need full voltage to coil on "crank")

The only other thing I see is the ammeter and disconnect/key switch are swapped around but don't see where that would matter. Their way actually seems odd to me.

 

[shankatank58]

Ok, I traced and mapped out the current wiring of the machine, FIL says battery wasnt charging and going dead while using it years ago. Im a bit confused with all the wires that were twisted together ( wire nut drawing ) and where they go if its correct. I couldnt trace the other 2 wires from the rectifier as they went into a plastic sleeve and into the motor somewhere so thats why the 2 neon colors green and orange just end to the right at top. and the points just ground out ... so my question is, is this wiring correct from their respected locations and off the bus bar on top of the motor? Thanks.
* yes the red wire is connected onto the same terminal of the starter with the battery cable

As to the not charging issue; my guess would be a bad regulator. I'm guessing that is using a mechanical regulator. If so you might be able to open it up and check the contacts in it. Could be stuck.

Could also be the generator needs "exited" especially after sitting so long. You'll need to research that.

 

[Bonez]

Looks like it should work.

First off your green and orange go to the stator (AC posts on their drawing)

Everything in the nut will be HOT with key on.

I would suggest a second terminal block at the panel to eliminate that nut and clean things up. A small fuse panel might be better depending on what you may want to add to it. Space permitting of coarse.

Either the red or yellow from nut to block could be eliminated by putting a short jumper on present terminal block. Just be sure to use heavy enough wire to carry both fuel pump and ignition coil.

Move the jumper with the fuse in it to the "feed" side of the block just to save confusion. (both ends)

Assuming you are using a key switch with a start position I would consider running that wire directly either to the starter or engine compartment block. The fewer connections the better on that one I feel. (just remember you need full voltage to coil on "crank")

The only other thing I see is the ammeter and disconnect/key switch are swapped around but don't see where that would matter. Their way actually seems odd to me.

I was pondering the yellow and red wires as to why 2 feeders but probly to carry the current as you stated. I thought to add a relay and a key switch with ignition instead of the button for starting but I think I will leave it as it is for now until I get it running before I confuse myself more with that nest of wires.

 

[Bonez]

As to the not charging issue; my guess would be a bad regulator. I'm guessing that is using a mechanical regulator. If so you might be able to open it up and check the contacts in it. Could be stuck.

Could also be the generator needs "exited" especially after sitting so long. You'll need to research that.

I will check into testing the regulator, Its pretty big so Im not sure what type it is until I pull it later down the road.

 

[shankatank58]

I was pondering the yellow and red wires as to why 2 feeders but probly to carry the current as you stated. I thought to add a relay and a key switch with ignition instead of the button for starting but I think I will leave it as it is for now until I get it running before I confuse myself more with that nest of wires.

I prefer a button myself, but then again I have been called a Neanderthal.

 

[haymaker]

Knuckle Drager here...great band too.
Simple is better if you can.