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Skidsteer Forum - Bobcat, New Holland, Case, John Deere

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As far as the hoses, the easiest thing may be to figure out what fittings you need to attach to the cylinders, then get adapters (Surplus Center or Discount Hydraulic Hose) to go from that to NPT female. Finally, you can buy NPT hoses from Tractor Supply.

Alternatively, you can measure the hoses and order from Discount Hydraulic Hose or see if one of the nearby equipment or tractor dealers build hoses.
 
As far as the hoses, the easiest thing may be to figure out what fittings you need to attach to the cylinders, then get adapters (Surplus Center or Discount Hydraulic Hose) to go from that to NPT female. Finally, you can buy NPT hoses from Tractor Supply.

Alternatively, you can measure the hoses and order from Discount Hydraulic Hose or see if one of the nearby equipment or tractor dealers build hoses.
Thank you, got a couple different farm stores nearby
 
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Today I hooked up the chain and spun it around, lined it up and pushed it into the shop with the truck..... didnt realize on concrete you can grab the bucket and pull it sideways LOL
Anyways started pulling it apart and what a mess under the panels, gonna need to push it back outside and give it the hose again, for now I vac'd all the leaves and debris out, debating removing the cage but not sure if there are nuts thats going to fall into the chain drive area ( seen a youtube video that that happened ) so afraid to do it as I dont want to get that deep yet. Plugs were ok on one side and dirty on the other. I thought there were bullet holes in the muffler, air cleaner and motor shroud and yep I found a copper casing in the air filter but no other damage to anything, looks to be a 45 as its bigger than a 9mm. anyways pics pics pics
 

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Today I hooked up the chain and spun it around, lined it up and pushed it into the shop with the truck..... didnt realize on concrete you can grab the bucket and pull it sideways LOL
Anyways started pulling it apart and what a mess under the panels, gonna need to push it back outside and give it the hose again, for now I vac'd all the leaves and debris out, debating removing the cage but not sure if there are nuts thats going to fall into the chain drive area ( seen a youtube video that that happened ) so afraid to do it as I dont want to get that deep yet. Plugs were ok on one side and dirty on the other. I thought there were bullet holes in the muffler, air cleaner and motor shroud and yep I found a copper casing in the air filter but no other damage to anything, looks to be a 45 as its bigger than a 9mm. anyways pics pics pics
 

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Im assuming the wires were spliced together and bypassed that resistor??? Is that good or bad and can one be replaced if bad?
The resistor may have been bypassed if the ignition system was upgraded at some point
These resisters were used in cars years ago and Bobcat still sells them for the 642 and 742 with the Mitsubishi engine. I actually have some laying arround in my shop somewhere. You should be able to get one at an auto parts store or Rockauto.com.

It would probably be wiser to upgrade the ignition to something like Pertronix so you don’t have to deal with points or resistors anymore.

Side story… I gambled and bought a Bobcat 742B at auction that was not running, for cheap. All that was wrong with it was the resistor was broken. I had an old resister from a long gone car project that I took to the auction yard and got the machine running in like 10 minutes and drove it onto the trailer.
 
The resistor may have been bypassed if the ignition system was upgraded at some point
These resisters were used in cars years ago and Bobcat still sells them for the 642 and 742 with the Mitsubishi engine. I actually have some laying arround in my shop somewhere. You should be able to get one at an auto parts store or Rockauto.com.

It would probably be wiser to upgrade the ignition to something like Pertronix so you don’t have to deal with points or resistors anymore.

Side story… I gambled and bought a Bobcat 742B at auction that was not running, for cheap. All that was wrong with it was the resistor was broken. I had an old resister from a long gone car project that I took to the auction yard and got the machine running in like 10 minutes and drove it onto the trailer.
How do I tell if the ignition was upgraded? All I know for now is it is an Onan 2 cylinder motor, besides pics I posted
 
How do I tell if the ignition was upgraded? All I know for now is it is an Onan 2 cylinder motor, besides pics I posted
You really need to find out what was original equipment and compare. You can look at the inside of the distributor and see if it still uses points or not.

The resistor is normally part of the wiring that goes to the coil. The former owner may have just spliced another resistor in the wiring, bypassing the one you found.
 
You really need to find out what was original equipment and compare. You can look at the inside of the distributor and see if it still uses points or not.

The resistor is normally part of the wiring that goes to the coil. The former owner may have just spliced another resistor in the wiring, bypassing the one you found.
Ill get better pics later. What I noticed was a black wire spliced that was lower under the area where the resistor was, BUT up at the resistor was a wire of one color spliced into another color going to the coil and it was long enough to be looped in front of the resistor so I think either it was bad or bypassed at some point in time ? FIL said it ran like 10 years ago ( I keep getting different stories from them ) but Im leaning towards it never actually ran? The fuel tank is nearly full of bad gas and really has no smell so I have some people wanting it I suppose for part washing.... I pumped mearly 5 gallons out and used a rod and the tank is still apparently half full+ no clue how much is actually in there. I want to flush it and put clean fuel in eventually and at least get it to fire up once I get all the debris cleaned out so theres no chance of a fire, just tons of oil soaked pine needles, leaves and dirt in the bottom, filled my large shop vac 3 times already not including what I pulled out by handfulls. I did find hoses at a farm store and are fairly cheap $30 for a 3/8 X 96" hydraulic tractor hose although I dont need anything that long it should be fairly reasonable replacing all the hoses when the time comes. Its just so hot out in the shop with no ac I may just work on getting it cleaned for now and get a list together for hoses as some of the oil soaked dirt is almost like concrete in the bottom so either scrape it out or power wash it since its not anywhere near anything delicate ( I know to stay away from seals, connectors and the such ) basically caked on the bottom and sides inside the machine. Plan to soak it down with simple green and let it work over time then hopefully just wash out?
 
You really need to find out what was original equipment and compare. You can look at the inside of the distributor and see if it still uses points or not.

The resistor is normally part of the wiring that goes to the coil. The former owner may have just spliced another resistor in the wiring, bypassing the one you found.
So got digging and cleaning more, think I found the points, never seen them exposed like this???? Is this the way these macjines are with gas Onan engines? And what am I looking for to upgrade from the points?
 

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You may also want to get the engine model/serial number and post on a small engine forum. Also, I've had good luck with Jacksamallengines.com, but I haven't ever dealt with Onan.
 
So I bought a small power washer and pulled the steer out to do a deeper clean , Soaked it down with simple green then hit with the turbo nozzle.... actually worked really well.... was looking all squeaky clean until I used the blower to dry it and splashed the oily mess from the bottom back up onto everything... Might try another cleaning or 2 later as theres still some caked on gunk in the bottom and sides inside. But for the most part its cleaning up nicely. the hoses on the front are showing leaks at fittings and the crimps ( possibly due to bad rubber ) but theyll get replaced soon enough. When I get back out there Im going to work on getting it started...
 

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So got digging and cleaning more, think I found the points, never seen them exposed like this???? Is this the way these macjines are with gas Onan engines? And what am I looking for to upgrade from the points?
Points are not usually exposed.

Have you pulled the cover from the condensor? Points should be under the cover.

As to electronic: https://pertronixbrands.com/products/pertronix-1122p12-ignitor-delco-2-cyl-12-volt-positive-ground
****APPEARS to be for your Onan engine, but recommend calling the company to verify.

Great progress!!!!!
 
Points are not usually exposed.

Have you pulled the cover from the condensor? Points should be under the cover.

As to electronic: https://pertronixbrands.com/products/pertronix-1122p12-ignitor-delco-2-cyl-12-volt-positive-ground
****APPEARS to be for your Onan engine, but recommend calling the company to verify.

Great progress!!!!!
its missing the cover, found new point kit with cover and plate/plunger on ebay.... but if I can upgrade to electronic easily and cheap I may go that route. I am trying to find a carb rebuild kit, I cant find any numbers on the carb, just a casting that says ONAN MFG BY WALBRO
 
So got digging and cleaning more, think I found the points, never seen them exposed like this???? Is this the way these macjines are with gas Onan engines? And what am I looking for to upgrade from the points?
That appears to be the starter solenoid. The points would be inside the distributor under the cap. I have an Onan engine from a 444 Bobcat out back. I will try to investigate and get back to you later.
 

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