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Skidsteer Forum - Bobcat, New Holland, Case, John Deere

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Assuming it is an original engine, do you know which model?

Ford’s "compact loaders" were categorized primarily by their horsepower:
  • CL-20: A smaller unit typically featuring an Onan twin-cylinder gas engine.
  • CL-30: Equipped with a Wisconsin air-cooled gas engine.
  • CL-40: A larger model featuring a 40-horsepower Ford 1.5L or 1.7L V4 liquid-cooled gas engine.
  • CL-45 / CL-55 / CL-65: Later models introduced through partnerships (such as with Thomas) that offered diesel engine options.
 
Assuming it is an original engine, do you know which model?

Ford’s "compact loaders" were categorized primarily by their horsepower:
  • CL-20: A smaller unit typically featuring an Onan twin-cylinder gas engine.
  • CL-30: Equipped with a Wisconsin air-cooled gas engine.
  • CL-40: A larger model featuring a 40-horsepower Ford 1.5L or 1.7L V4 liquid-cooled gas engine.
  • CL-45 / CL-55 / CL-65: Later models introduced through partnerships (such as with Thomas) that offered diesel engine options.
 
Assuming it is an original engine, do you know which model?

Ford’s "compact loaders" were categorized primarily by their horsepower:
  • CL-20: A smaller unit typically featuring an Onan twin-cylinder gas engine.
  • CL-30: Equipped with a Wisconsin air-cooled gas engine.
  • CL-40: A larger model featuring a 40-horsepower Ford 1.5L or 1.7L V4 liquid-cooled gas engine.
  • CL-45 / CL-55 / CL-65: Later models introduced through partnerships (such as with Thomas) that offered diesel engine options.
 
Moderator, please delete 2 of the 3 repeats. When attempting to post, recieved an error message of:

"Oops we ran into some problems"
"Please enter a valid message"
 
Assuming it is an original engine, do you know which model?

Ford’s "compact loaders" were categorized primarily by their horsepower:
  • CL-20: A smaller unit typically featuring an Onan twin-cylinder gas engine.
  • CL-30: Equipped with a Wisconsin air-cooled gas engine.
  • CL-40: A larger model featuring a 40-horsepower Ford 1.5L or 1.7L V4 liquid-cooled gas engine.
  • CL-45 / CL-55 / CL-65: Later models introduced through partnerships (such as with Thomas) that offered diesel engine options.
I dont know which model or anything yet other than its a FORD... and thats if he has that correct. Supposed to rain into next week so hopefully get down there after it stops raining, dont know if the wet ground will work in our favor or not?
 
Weather looks like it will be clearing this week so should be all go from here. Treated all my clothing with Permethrin since Im sure everything is over grown and not taking a chance with Ticks and other crawlies... even sprayed my boots, socks and underwear for added precaution. Although they got a little rain down south and will be clear early next week , we will be coming back into the rain unless the weather decides to be nice for us. I dont look forwards to playing in the mud but hopefully its not bad.

My take on this is drain the carb of old fuel, disconnect the fuel line from tanks and add a new fuel line from a fuel can to pump/carb and see if it will fire and run under its own power. If not then its time to drag it out I suppose.... Need all them prayers, good luck and hoodoo voodoo that it goes smoothly. Ill try to get pics as it goes ( good or bad ) hopefully mostly good !
 
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Well it was a flop today, a complete disaster! To start the new trailer jack snapped ( crappy weld job ) then it was super tight trying to manuever the trailer with no room to turn around but managed to get it lined up after an hour of teeter tottering, thought all was good to go but the wench battery was dead grrrr!!! So tried various ways to get it on the trailer to no advil. Next i tried to start it, no fuel in it and carb was dry so i ran new lines to carb from gas can, gauges worked but no crank? We gave up for now but FIL is thinking to give me his Bobcat T75 or T80 ( not sure exact model yet ) so i may end up with 2 since he is buying a bigger one?! This one is tracked with an enclosed glass cab with HVAC system Oh Yeahhhhh LOL. So planning another trip down in a few weeks if the weather drys out as its calling for rain all week and more.... as it did this week but barely got a sprinkle,,,,
 

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From pics looks like a solid starting point

Good luck.
Yes, the machine is solid beside flat tires and 1 leaking boom cylinder. the Machine sat crooked so one front tire was in the air and I was able to rotate it by hand so its not frozen. I got the buget to lift with a heavy strap ( teeth were dug into ground ) raised about 2 inches so if we did get it with the wench that it would roll backwards up the ramps ( sadly didnt happen today ) but I will try to get down there again in about 2 weeks better equipped to get it out. Since ticks are apparently bad down there I treated all my clothing with Permethrin as well as my boots, didnt get a single critter, FIL however got quite a few. Now I have a better idea of what Im getting.
 
*** Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the CL20? ***
The panel key ignition is disconnected ( I pulled the panel ) and there was a toggle added below it so not sure whats going on but my FIL said it ran when he got it and never used a key but doesnt remember what he had to do, The other 2 small switches /button at top of panel are frozen and dont move and I cant tell if they are some sort of push or toggle so when I hooked up battery I got power to hour meter and voltage but no crank or any starter noise flipping the big toggle at bottom and other 2 wont move, so I was planning next trip to try and install an ignition switch and hook properly and see if it will fire up, But I can not find anything online. The motor area looks solid and all I seen was a resistor that was disconnected ( long white rectanglar item mounted on back of seat, may even be a voltage regulator ? ) so no loose wires that I see other than that.... it would be so much easier to drive out even if limping Thanks for any help
 
*** Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the CL20? ***
The panel key ignition is disconnected ( I pulled the panel ) and there was a toggle added below it so not sure whats going on but my FIL said it ran when he got it and never used a key but doesnt remember what he had to do, The other 2 small switches /button at top of panel are frozen and dont move and I cant tell if they are some sort of push or toggle so when I hooked up battery I got power to hour meter and voltage but no crank or any starter noise flipping the big toggle at bottom and other 2 wont move, so I was planning next trip to try and install an ignition switch and hook properly and see if it will fire up, But I can not find anything online. The motor area looks solid and all I seen was a resistor that was disconnected ( long white rectanglar item mounted on back of seat, may even be a voltage regulator ? ) so no loose wires that I see other than that.... it would be so much easier to drive out even if limping Thanks for any help
I've had good luck with Jensales.

Looks like they have service and operators manuals.

https://www.jensales.com/search?search=ford cl20

Following on Messick's site, hopefully your screen and/or eyes are better than mine.

https://share.google/WHigz6RfrpunlSezM

As to starting, you could try jumping the starter or starter relay, some of those old machines did not require the key to be "on" to get them to start.

Depending on any "safety features" boom/bucket solenoids may not work without the key, but, at least on my NH785 it can move.

Good luck
 
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Im trying to find out what the switches are for, as mine is apparently bypassed , cant see any labels in any research from last night

I spent a fair amount of time digging out birds nests and pine needles to clear off the engine and inside, its a mess and much prefer to get it home to actualy work on it.. The battery I had was too big to set in the compartment but I left it there until next time, its old anyways. First pic is what I find online and second pic with toggle at bottom is what I have, where I believe the 2 wires from the key switch is moved to that lower toggle thats added.
 

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You said he has another CTL, so use a line and a snatch block to drag the CL20 onto the trailer.

You can then take the CTL he is giving you for your use and either scrap the Ford or tinker with it in your own time.
 
You said he has another CTL, so use a line and a snatch block to drag the CL20 onto the trailer.

You can then take the CTL he is giving you for your use and either scrap the Ford or tinker with it in your own time.
The ford looks to be in really good shape, There is no play in the pins ( tried shaking everything and its solid ) so if it will run it will be great to get in tighter areas. The Bobcat is used but new and a very good sized machine for getting into the heavy stuff. Im going to take my truck down with a hitch mounted winch and anchore the front to a tree with some chains and try to winch the bobcat out, he just tried to go through a creek and up a bank when it sank its rear so he cant get any traction to reverse out, if we can get it to move back just a foot he should be good, I was also thinking since he set the bucket down on the cutting edge, might be able to just push itself back as we winch it, which I dont think he tried, he really has no experience with these things and probly didnt think to do so... Ill be headed down after fathers day to give it a go again on the ford as I plan to drag it out with my truck so we can line up the trailer and straight winch it onto the trailer, there wasnt room to get the trailer to it and trying to pull the ford only slid the trailer over towards the trees ( he didnt charge the winch battery ) so hopefully better prepared this time as I now know what Im dealing with. Im also buying his old zero turn so I sold my rider yesterday.... I also need to weld up his trailer jack ( it broke while hooking up and he told me he bought it like that, I looked it up and it comes with parts to weld on yourself, so now I know who did the welding and didnt say anything ) He has 2 MIG welders so I can get a solid weld on it for him and make it safe, he just has some spatter beads holding it and covered it with plasti dip to hide it,,, and looks like he just tacked it over the paint as well.
 

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Purely a guess here, but if indeed the key switch has been bypassed I would think the toggle switch at bottom would control the ignition (Batt. to coil) and if that is a push button near the choke; then that would be Hot to the starter solenoid.
It would probably be easiest to just use a jumper wire and clip it from your battery to the coil and then short across the solenoid. I have a jumper wire I made up years ago with a starter button in it for such times. Just be aware it needs to be a fairly heavy button as it will pull a few amps. (Yes I assume you can still buy them already made, but what fun would that be?)
 
Didn't realize the Bobcat was stuck. What a mess. :)

One thing you can do if you have soft shackles is to thread them through the tracks of the bobcat and hook a line to them. Then the tracks will essentially winch itself out. It's an adapted old trick from when people used to hook a chain in a dozer track to get them unstuck. Use enough line so that the force isn't pulling on the soft shackle. That is just to get the line or chain under the track and then most of the force is distributed.

Those welds are just ridiculous.

Good luck.
 
Purely a guess here, but if indeed the key switch has been bypassed I would think the toggle switch at bottom would control the ignition (Batt. to coil) and if that is a push button near the choke; then that would be Hot to the starter solenoid.
It would probably be easiest to just use a jumper wire and clip it from your battery to the coil and then short across the solenoid. I have a jumper wire I made up years ago with a starter button in it for such times. Just be aware it needs to be a fairly heavy button as it will pull a few amps. (Yes I assume you can still buy them already made, but what fun would that be?)
Yes and none of the buttons move so they are seized in place, as I flipped the toggle I didnt hear anything near the motor but none of the other buttons moved so I didnt want to chance anything more, Besides all 4 tires are flat and 3 off the bead seats.... so probly wont move on its own anyways. Should be going down again in a couple weeks to try again this time to pull it out with my truck and line it up for the trailer to winch on.
 
Didn't realize the Bobcat was stuck. What a mess. :)

One thing you can do if you have soft shackles is to thread them through the tracks of the bobcat and hook a line to them. Then the tracks will essentially winch itself out. It's an adapted old trick from when people used to hook a chain in a dozer track to get them unstuck. Use enough line so that the force isn't pulling on the soft shackle. That is just to get the line or chain under the track and then most of the force is distributed.

Those welds are just ridiculous.
Good luck.
Yes, I was thinking of doing that just wondering how to hook up and not damage the rubber tracks on the bobcat as I believe it weighs somewhere in the ballpark of 10 to 12000 pounds. I also thought to dig under and wedge in some logs for it to grab , I think it only needs to move about a foot to gain traction. He has a big 4x4 tractor but I dont like pulling stuff like that as Ive seen some bad things happen with tractors, and I know a wrecker wont drive through a wooded forest to get it ( all trees and mud ) which he thinks they will but in my experience they only stay on paved and sometimes gravel roads... Ill be better prepared next time since Ive seen what Im dealing with and not going in blind again.
Also Permethrin is your friend ! I treated all my clothes ( pants, shirts, underwear and socks ) and sprayed off deep woods on any exposed skin, I didnt get any ticks while down there trudging through the tall overgrown brush in tick country.... last night my back was itching between my shoulder blades. had 1 tick, not sure where it came from as I was clean when cheacked the first night? 1 out of a full day out in the fields isnt bad.
 
Would anyone happen to know what battery goes in the Ford CL20 ? It fits under the floor plate, and smaller that a car battery as mine was a little too long , but does use the round top posts
 

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