Hello

[Bonez]

OK, Ive read that points should be in the fully open position ( assuming TDC ) so if that is correct then I am good to go.... I hope.

 

[shankatank58]

So I dove into italthough I was hesitant to do so. Pulled the radiator and muscled the front cover as much as I could, found the timing marks and lined everything up... the first go the points were completely closed so it was 180 out, cranked it around and the gap was too tight so I adjusted it to .016. The spark plugs were also gapped too far so I adjusted them to .025
Now I need to get a battery so I can test the fuel pump and see if it will fire up... I cleaned up the cooling fins on the heads, the radiator is pretty rusted up in the fin area but not leaking, going to treat it to prevent further rusting for the time being.

Now that Im thinking about it.... was I supposed to set the points at .016 on the 20 degree mark or TDC.... as I adjusted it at TDC... hope I didnt goof it... otherwise I know what Im doing tomorrow.

.016" is @ the peak of the POINTS CAM lobe. That should be at or near TDC if I'm reading correctly(?) The gap will remain the same regardless of the timing once set. 20* is when they are just breaking (spark) Did you find the plate to be adjustable?

Just an aside: I've noticed Onan did go to an electronic ignition system for their 2 cyl. engines. Have no idea if it could be retrofitted to their earlier engines but might be worth investigating? If it would work and you could find something in a boneyard; might be worth doing. Otherwise aftermarket would surely be cheaper. Just food for thought.

Didn't see your last post. Yes I think you are good.

 

[foton]

I know the engine is different,I have a onan ccka 14 hp 2 cylinder opposed engine on a welder, and the magento went bad and is n.l.a. ,but it can be converted to a powered coil ingition pretty easily, and I assume if you have points that could be done to that engine also if need be.

 

[Bonez]

.016" is @ the peak of the POINTS CAM lobe. That should be at or near TDC if I'm reading correctly(?) The gap will remain the same regardless of the timing once set. 20* is when they are just breaking (spark) Did you find the plate to be adjustable?

Just an aside: I've noticed Onan did go to an electronic ignition system for their 2 cyl. engines. Have no idea if it could be retrofitted to their earlier engines but might be worth investigating? If it would work and you could find something in a boneyard; might be worth doing. Otherwise aftermarket would surely be cheaper. Just food for thought.

Didn't see your last post. Yes I think you are good.

Thanks, After I came in and settled down my mind got racing, and Im like, was I supposed to set the points at the 20* mark or TDC??? Then I re-read the files and the best I got was TDC.... so I was hoping I didnt have to tear this thing back apart as it was a PITA to get to some nuts and bolts besides no room to move the cover. Im afraid to remove some brackets as there is no access to the back side for the nuts and I have seen some YT videos where the nuts fall into the drive chain area and needs fished out... same with the cage bolts, I want to remove the cafe for easier access to work on the stuff but I dont want to get into where I dont need to yet.
Friday my parts should be here and Ill get some wiring cleaned up. New crimps, silicone wires and keyed ignition switch to eliminate the toggle that was installed ( Ill convert that over to some lighting or cooling fan switch later as a fan blowing to keep me cool would be nice )

 

[Bonez]

Today I replaced the deck belt on the zturn, then I started digging into replacing the key switch on the loader. The wiring was pretty butchered so I pulled the console off to clean it all up and do the connections properly... terminals on the switches were all rotted and broke off so ordering a few more replacements ( starter button, Light switch ) upgrading to weather proof switches.

Question since I dont have a schematic or clean picture of the wiring for the console. All the wires are just grouped together and twisted at one point, and I wondered, if instead if it would still work if I wired everything jumping from one connection to another then splice into the main harness (if that makes sense) so like the wire from the amp gauge jumps to the key switch then from the key switch to the starter button then jumps from the starter button to the hour meter then connects to the harness wire instead of 3 or 4 wires all connected at the harness wire? *** not an accurate description but just for the cluster of wires that are twisted together in the pics.**

 

[skidsteerforum]

Tearing the console off to redo those rotted terminals properly instead of just re-taping them is the right call and the weatherproof switches are a nice touch.

 

[Bonez]

Tearing the console off to redo those rotted terminals properly instead of just re-taping them is the right call and the weatherproof switches are a nice touch.

Agreed, besides the key switch was bypassed with a toggle, I bought a new key switch so its secured from unwanted tampering. The ignition switch would stick and the others were corroded pretty bad. As I tried to remove the switches the terminals were breaking off so I just decided to replace them all with new and clean up that rats nest of wires since there are some moving controls behind there that can rub the wires so I will put it in a loom as well for added protection.