Where is the best place to get a V1702 Rebuild kit?

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743

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Looking for a REbuild kit for my 743 with a V1702 does anyone know where the cheapest kit is? or is it best to get each part as needed? A couple of people have also told me that most of the time the Injector pump don't need rebuilt is this true? I have found a Place that sells the kit for $1000 but when I asked if it included the liners he said no they are $40 ea so Total of a $1160 for the kit. But what bugged me was why they were selling a kit without Liners -- Like if the liners don't need replaceing?
 

Tazza

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Thats a good price.
Depending on if you are able to get oversize pistons depends on if you need liners. The aftermarket kits i have used only had std pistons and ring sets so liners were needed. My liners cost me $20. The liners are only semi-finished so they will still need machining.
As for the pump, get it done! people may say it will be rite, but i don't believe that. It may still work, but is the flow still rite? does it still hold pressure? I paid $400 to get my pump checked and cleaned (fully pulled apart) and new nozzles on my injectors and pressure test to set cracking pressure. The nozzles cost me the most, i think they cost about $60 each.
I am assuming you will get an engine shop do the engine? as you need the crank ground, cam may need touching up, big ends should be re-sized. Ensure the piston to head height is checked!!!! I found my aftermarket pistons were slightly lower than OEM and the compression is slightly low causing harder starting. I can't remember exactly but it should be about .022" i have all the specs if you need them later. If needed just give me a yell.
 
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743

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Thats a good price.
Depending on if you are able to get oversize pistons depends on if you need liners. The aftermarket kits i have used only had std pistons and ring sets so liners were needed. My liners cost me $20. The liners are only semi-finished so they will still need machining.
As for the pump, get it done! people may say it will be rite, but i don't believe that. It may still work, but is the flow still rite? does it still hold pressure? I paid $400 to get my pump checked and cleaned (fully pulled apart) and new nozzles on my injectors and pressure test to set cracking pressure. The nozzles cost me the most, i think they cost about $60 each.
I am assuming you will get an engine shop do the engine? as you need the crank ground, cam may need touching up, big ends should be re-sized. Ensure the piston to head height is checked!!!! I found my aftermarket pistons were slightly lower than OEM and the compression is slightly low causing harder starting. I can't remember exactly but it should be about .022" i have all the specs if you need them later. If needed just give me a yell.
Found a V1702 kit Liners pistons, rings, pins and clips, main and rod bearings, trush, upper and lower gastets for 776.00 and a oil pump for 60.00 the machine shop said about 700.00 just need water pump and injectors. any thoughts on best price for water pump ad injectors?
 

Tazza

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Found a V1702 kit Liners pistons, rings, pins and clips, main and rod bearings, trush, upper and lower gastets for 776.00 and a oil pump for 60.00 the machine shop said about 700.00 just need water pump and injectors. any thoughts on best price for water pump ad injectors?
Water pumps are usually on e-bay....
I'd take your pump and injectors to your local diesel repair shop and get them to do the work. Your nozzles may be in good shape and just need cleaning. Make sure you get the pump checked and adjusted if required. When you get all that sorted, i can give you the procedure to ensure your injection timing is correct too.
When the machine shop does the work, make sure the piston to head height is rite!!!! Don't make my mistake and assume it was checked. Piston to head height should be .028 to .035". If its not enough they can machine a small amount off the pistons to get the rite height. It may be needed as the deck of the block will need machining. Make sure they do NOT machine over where the injector pump mounts, this sets your timing, it does not need machining.
 
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743

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Found a V1702 kit Liners pistons, rings, pins and clips, main and rod bearings, trush, upper and lower gastets for 776.00 and a oil pump for 60.00 the machine shop said about 700.00 just need water pump and injectors. any thoughts on best price for water pump ad injectors?
Found a water pump for $71.00 new at my local carrier reefer man beats $138.-- at bobcat and $113.-- on e-bay. the injectors pop at the right psi but just pisses a stream so off to get new ones -- so far $88.-- at bobcat and $50.-- on the net but still looking to a better price. Also need the front bushing and the rear sleeve for the front and rear seals to ride on. The machine shop said they didn't need to shave the head so thats a Plus. They went 20 mm or 50 thou over on the holes and just needed to poilish the crank and rods so back to standard on them.
 

Tazza

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Found a water pump for $71.00 new at my local carrier reefer man beats $138.-- at bobcat and $113.-- on e-bay. the injectors pop at the right psi but just pisses a stream so off to get new ones -- so far $88.-- at bobcat and $50.-- on the net but still looking to a better price. Also need the front bushing and the rear sleeve for the front and rear seals to ride on. The machine shop said they didn't need to shave the head so thats a Plus. They went 20 mm or 50 thou over on the holes and just needed to poilish the crank and rods so back to standard on them.
What front and rear bushing are you talking about? Are you talking about the seal carriers? for the front and back of the crank.
 
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743

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What front and rear bushing are you talking about? Are you talking about the seal carriers? for the front and back of the crank.
I think so? front one -- Collar #3974576 and the back one -- Sleeve #3975334 from my Bobcat 743 parts book pg G3 -G4 which go on the crank which yes they are new surfaces for the two seals. The Machine shop wants the back one to press on the crank. and I figured I should replace the front one sence it has groves in it from the front seal riding on it. if I order it from bobcat it will take 2 weeks At least for this bobcat to get it (something about it takes a week for them to get together orders and anther week to get from japan or china I guess) I'm still waiting for a service manuel for my 743 which I order 13 days ago they say it should be here tomorrow
 

Tazza

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I think so? front one -- Collar #3974576 and the back one -- Sleeve #3975334 from my Bobcat 743 parts book pg G3 -G4 which go on the crank which yes they are new surfaces for the two seals. The Machine shop wants the back one to press on the crank. and I figured I should replace the front one sence it has groves in it from the front seal riding on it. if I order it from bobcat it will take 2 weeks At least for this bobcat to get it (something about it takes a week for them to get together orders and anther week to get from japan or china I guess) I'm still waiting for a service manuel for my 743 which I order 13 days ago they say it should be here tomorrow
ahh yes, the wear sleeves. When i got mine done, they just hit them with a linisher while they were grinding the crank (the rear main at least). The rear one had a slight groove as did the front. If you install your oil seals in a little further they will run on an un-worn section of the sleeve. You can even install them a little further out too. Its an option, i have done 3 engines like this with no oil leaks. But naturally, it is your choice though, you need to be happy with it.
 
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743

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ahh yes, the wear sleeves. When i got mine done, they just hit them with a linisher while they were grinding the crank (the rear main at least). The rear one had a slight groove as did the front. If you install your oil seals in a little further they will run on an un-worn section of the sleeve. You can even install them a little further out too. Its an option, i have done 3 engines like this with no oil leaks. But naturally, it is your choice though, you need to be happy with it.
yes check today and the rear one is fine but the front one has two groves ... But I figured as you said and that ones easy to change later too. I get it back tomarrow. The supplier for my parts left out the front Main bearing so I had to stop and get that today and the frost plugs I got them from my carrier dealer so the total for parts came to $832 ani't bad for all plus a water pump and oil pump. The machine shop said around $700-800. The injector pump check out fine. So the only thing left is the Injectors. Timing is just lining up the three dots (side by side) Right? Maybe my service Manual will be in tomarrow otherwise I guess I will just wing it on reassemble. the only things is timing and Tork specifications. Anyway thanks for your input
 

Tazza

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yes check today and the rear one is fine but the front one has two groves ... But I figured as you said and that ones easy to change later too. I get it back tomarrow. The supplier for my parts left out the front Main bearing so I had to stop and get that today and the frost plugs I got them from my carrier dealer so the total for parts came to $832 ani't bad for all plus a water pump and oil pump. The machine shop said around $700-800. The injector pump check out fine. So the only thing left is the Injectors. Timing is just lining up the three dots (side by side) Right? Maybe my service Manual will be in tomarrow otherwise I guess I will just wing it on reassemble. the only things is timing and Tork specifications. Anyway thanks for your input
Yes, just line up the dots, there are 3 sets of dots on the main idler gear, just match them on the cam, crank and injector.
I have torque specs at home, can you send me an e-mail? i can then e-mail you ALL the details yo need to re-assemble it. "taz38sup at yahoo.com.au" naturally at = @. I have them in PDF format showing all torques and head torque sequence.
Glad the injector pump tested out ok, the price you have on injectors seems pretty good! I paid 60 bux each for JUST the nozzles, they then needed to be installed and adjusted for correct cracking pressure.
 

Tazza

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Yes, just line up the dots, there are 3 sets of dots on the main idler gear, just match them on the cam, crank and injector.
I have torque specs at home, can you send me an e-mail? i can then e-mail you ALL the details yo need to re-assemble it. "taz38sup at yahoo.com.au" naturally at = @. I have them in PDF format showing all torques and head torque sequence.
Glad the injector pump tested out ok, the price you have on injectors seems pretty good! I paid 60 bux each for JUST the nozzles, they then needed to be installed and adjusted for correct cracking pressure.
e-mail sent
 

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