Water in hydraulic fluid

[sedorbrian]

My hydraulics werent working, i discovered that some water had frozen in the filter, blocking the flow. Until i drain it in spring, is there something i can add to the fluid to keep it from freezing? I was thinking dry gas or antifreze. Also, is it possible that i got air in the lines, because i took the filter off. If so, how can i get it out?

 

[Tazza]

Air just takes time to get out. Don't be to worried it will bleed in time.
As for the water, i would run the machine to warm the oil and melt the water then change as much fluid as possible and the filter. This will take a few changes to get the water out. I would at least get as much out now as you can, water in the syetem will only cause you problems, dont leave it!

 

[jerry]

If you can get it into a heated area let it sit for a day or so and drop a gallon or so out of both chaincases or whatever it takes to get the water out. Then sit that oil outside and the water will settle out and freeze so you can pour the oil off the top.

 

[fyrwoodguy]

If you can get it into a heated area let it sit for a day or so and drop a gallon or so out of both chaincases or whatever it takes to get the water out. Then sit that oil outside and the water will settle out and freeze so you can pour the oil off the top.

that's good advice,but i would find out how and why the water got in there and correct that too.

 

[Tazza]

that's good advice,but i would find out how and why the water got in there and correct that too.

True, but i have found it usually gets in via the filling cap or breether. The seals on here can be rather poor if they are even fitted!

 

[fyrwoodguy]

True, but i have found it usually gets in via the filling cap or breether. The seals on here can be rather poor if they are even fitted!

yes this is very true.
i have been trying to keep the water out of the hydraulic system on my firewood processor since the day i bought it,and i aint had much luck on that front. it's got to the point that i don't even run it in the winter,because the machine is'nt even properly warmed up at 2 cords of wood. and that's 1 delivery (not enough to warrant starting machine up in cold sub zero weather) plus there are many other reasons not to do firewood in the winter.it's my opinion that when you heat up the hydraulic oil during the day & in the evening when the machine cools down,moisture is drawn into the hydraulic tank every warm-up & cool down cycle. therfore its better to operate in the summer months than winter months.110 gal hyd.oil tank
water seperator only going to be able to work in summer only?(which is fine my me)
anyone got any info on water seperators?
sorry for derailing thread,but what the hell-gotta start somewhere right?

 

[Tazza]

yes this is very true.
i have been trying to keep the water out of the hydraulic system on my firewood processor since the day i bought it,and i aint had much luck on that front. it's got to the point that i don't even run it in the winter,because the machine is'nt even properly warmed up at 2 cords of wood. and that's 1 delivery (not enough to warrant starting machine up in cold sub zero weather) plus there are many other reasons not to do firewood in the winter.it's my opinion that when you heat up the hydraulic oil during the day & in the evening when the machine cools down,moisture is drawn into the hydraulic tank every warm-up & cool down cycle. therfore its better to operate in the summer months than winter months.110 gal hyd.oil tank
water seperator only going to be able to work in summer only?(which is fine my me)
anyone got any info on water seperators?
sorry for derailing thread,but what the hell-gotta start somewhere right?

Water absorbing filters are available, the water gets absorbed into i think beads of silica gel or something close to that. They don't soak up large amounts of moisture though. So they will still work in the cold, as long as the oil and water mix is above 0c so its not frozen.

 

[fyrwoodguy]

Water absorbing filters are available, the water gets absorbed into i think beads of silica gel or something close to that. They don't soak up large amounts of moisture though. So they will still work in the cold, as long as the oil and water mix is above 0c so its not frozen.

this sounds like something i would try.got any more info?
also if you are religious about water and chage filters on time,will it keep 100% of the water out of hyd oil tank?

 

[jerry]

this sounds like something i would try.got any more info?
also if you are religious about water and chage filters on time,will it keep 100% of the water out of hyd oil tank?

On the fluid power forum there is at least one thread on water in the oil, check with these people. http://forums.hydraulicspneumatics.com/eve/forums/a/frm/f/8621030121 I don't know how to make a link operable though.

 

[skidsteer.ca]

On the fluid power forum there is at least one thread on water in the oil, check with these people. http://forums.hydraulicspneumatics.com/eve/forums/a/frm/f/8621030121 I don't know how to make a link operable though.

If you have enough water in the filter that it is froze, you really need to find out how its getting in there. That is not a condesation problem. That is rain water (or wash water) getting in around a fill point or fitting.
How white looking is the oil?
Fyr
We operate quite a bit in sub zero temp. I don't believe there is enough condensation to contaminate the system in less then several years. Machines that run for longer periods of time are less likely to have condensation problem though, because of less frequent temp fluctuations and if they happen to get the oil above 100C some of the moisture may vapourize.
Most machines are designed with the idea that overheating the oil will be the problem. However in northern climates getting heat to stay in the oil is a challenge too, and requires special design considerations too. Lower reservoir capacities and bypassing of oil coolers or mounting them on the out flow (hot) side of the engine radiator and switchng to low viscosity oils may be required
Ken

 

[brettk1]

If you have enough water in the filter that it is froze, you really need to find out how its getting in there. That is not a condesation problem. That is rain water (or wash water) getting in around a fill point or fitting.
How white looking is the oil?
Fyr
We operate quite a bit in sub zero temp. I don't believe there is enough condensation to contaminate the system in less then several years. Machines that run for longer periods of time are less likely to have condensation problem though, because of less frequent temp fluctuations and if they happen to get the oil above 100C some of the moisture may vapourize.
Most machines are designed with the idea that overheating the oil will be the problem. However in northern climates getting heat to stay in the oil is a challenge too, and requires special design considerations too. Lower reservoir capacities and bypassing of oil coolers or mounting them on the out flow (hot) side of the engine radiator and switchng to low viscosity oils may be required
Ken

Living in a cooler climate I was wondering if it would be possible to install a thermostat in line to the oil cooler?? What would be the best temp to keep condensate out of the system?? Where could an oil based thermostat with by-pass be bought?? So many questions this creates lol.

 

[skidsteer.ca]

Living in a cooler climate I was wondering if it would be possible to install a thermostat in line to the oil cooler?? What would be the best temp to keep condensate out of the system?? Where could an oil based thermostat with by-pass be bought?? So many questions this creates lol.

I know oil tstats are available, no idea on how bulky they are. Packaging it into a skid could be the problem. This fellow
Wayne County Hose Hydraulics

Route 191 N
Honesdale, PA 18431
(570) 251-8888​

from over at tractorbynet.com was going to check into the price on one for me, but he must have gotten tied up. A person could bypass the cooler for the winter if you had a guage to monitor the oil temp. My LS 160 shows oil temp and I have a hard time getting it up to 80f in winter and 120f in summer. I would think getting temps up to 180 to 220 degrees would help evaporate the moisture out.
Ken