Two quick questions on 773

[sunnyboy]

I just bought a used 773, and have a couple of questions. The dealer tells me this is a model "C", but checking the serial number on the internet indicates it may be an "F". The S/N is 5096-37542, so is this a "C" or "F" model? It does have a status panel on the back of the cab, just to the right of the driver's seat. Second, I'm trying to find the specification for the front ram. Mine is leaking, and I've read on this forum detailed seal replacement instructions (thanks Tazza!), but the chrome ram has some pretty bad nicks in it, which I suspect is what's cutting the front seal and leading to the leaks. So I'm looking at replacing the ram, but need the specs as I'd like to go to Princess Auto rather than the dealer (Canada). By the look of things, the ram has already been replaced once. I guess I'm looking for the psi rating and the ram length. The loader has 8500 hours on it, but was well maintained (regular filter changes and lubing). It was used in a logging yard for pickup/cleanup work. It had solid tires, so all the rear frame bolts were loose (4 missing nuts). I've already changed the oil, oil & air filters, greased all fittings, and replace all 10 of the rear bolts. Thanks very much in advance. -S

 

[skidsteer.ca]

Sunny
You'd be better off to take the ram to a machine shop that specializes in hydraulic work and have a new shaft made if that is all that is wrong with your cylinder.
I'm having a 2 inch one made for my 709 bobcat hoe right now. new 2” shafting was $62.xx a foot and they figure 1.5 to 2 hours labour to thread the rod (piston is retained by a bolts, so its a internal thread) and weld the eye back on it. They will match up the packings for me and I'll stick it back together. Should be @ $300.00 total.
As for weather its a C or a F the only difference that comes to mind is the Hydraulic pump may have slightly more flow (gpm) from a C to a F. If you go to Bobcat,com and look it up under “historical specs” for loaders you may find the answer. I ran into that wih my old 753 and the operators manual said 11 gpm and the hist spec said 13 gpm. Chances are it does not matter. If you ever need a hydraulic pump you can by the one for the F if its bigger. Aside from a few vary minor differences they are essentially the same machine.
Where are you located?
Welcome to the forum.
Ken

 

[sunnyboy]

Sunny
You'd be better off to take the ram to a machine shop that specializes in hydraulic work and have a new shaft made if that is all that is wrong with your cylinder.
I'm having a 2 inch one made for my 709 bobcat hoe right now. new 2” shafting was $62.xx a foot and they figure 1.5 to 2 hours labour to thread the rod (piston is retained by a bolts, so its a internal thread) and weld the eye back on it. They will match up the packings for me and I'll stick it back together. Should be @ $300.00 total.
As for weather its a C or a F the only difference that comes to mind is the Hydraulic pump may have slightly more flow (gpm) from a C to a F. If you go to Bobcat,com and look it up under “historical specs” for loaders you may find the answer. I ran into that wih my old 753 and the operators manual said 11 gpm and the hist spec said 13 gpm. Chances are it does not matter. If you ever need a hydraulic pump you can by the one for the F if its bigger. Aside from a few vary minor differences they are essentially the same machine.
Where are you located?
Welcome to the forum.
Ken

Thanks. Location - Vancouver Island. Cheers, -S

 

[Tazza]

Thanks. Location - Vancouver Island. Cheers, -S

Small dings or nicks in the rods are ok but you need to rekobe any burs. Anything that can cut a seal up MUST go. I persoanlly like the idea of machine un a new rod and welding it on, then you know the seals won't leak. I agree to take it to a machine shop, get a price on a new stick.

 

[Fishfiles]

Small dings or nicks in the rods are ok but you need to rekobe any burs. Anything that can cut a seal up MUST go. I persoanlly like the idea of machine un a new rod and welding it on, then you know the seals won't leak. I agree to take it to a machine shop, get a price on a new stick.

The welding shop I use does repairs to the nicks on the chrome rods and the repaired rods work just fine , they TIG weld stainless steel into the nicks then buff it smooth , of course if there are so many nicks in a rod that welding time cost would exceed the cost of the rod it is not worth paying someone to do it , but if you know someone who has a TiG setup for stainless and would do it for free that would help