servicing new 2 me 743

[daved]

Hi Guys, I went ahead and bought the 743 I was questioning about. After a weekend of trial and talking to the previous owner I'm confident this is a pretty good old machine, for now anyway.The dealer was nice enough to give me the previous owners name and number, I felt bad for calling him but what the h#@! Anyway I would like to go through and service all filters, and fluids that need it. Can anyone help me out with do's and dont's when servicing this monster. Also does anyone cross over to wicks or hastings as apposed to ''Bobcat" brand fiters. Is this even possible??? The reason I ask is I live near 4 parts stores and the nearest dealer is about 60mi+. Also is there any hidden filters accessible anywhere I should know about other than obvious ones inside engine compartment?? Any input on this would be a blessing because until my manual comes in I am a newbie with working on this little guy. I spend most days working on farm tractors but like anything until you get familiar with your toy things never cease to amaze me. Thanks alot for all of your help and I appoligize for rambling on.

 

[sterlclan]

My local parts store crossed all mine to wix I'm not sure if you have a charge filter or not if you did it is under the seat on the pump ....Jeff

 

[Tazza]

My local parts store crossed all mine to wix I'm not sure if you have a charge filter or not if you did it is under the seat on the pump ....Jeff

All the filters can be cross refrenced, i have done it on mine.
Engine oil is simple, there should be a hose attached to the sump, remove the plug at the end and drain it. It may help to run the machine before to warm the oil a little, it helps dislodge and crud in the sump but the filter should have caught any of that. Change the filter plug the hose and re-fill.
There will be a filter at the top right, above your overflow tank. This is your main hydraulic filter.
It wouldn't hurt to fluch the cooling system, drain the coolant and run it through with water. Fill with clean water and put in some quality cooling system flush. Make sure you let the engine cool rite down before you add water or you risk cracking the head.
Un-do the 2 bolts at the front of the ROPS, lift the ROPS up and look at the blue pump, if there is a square block on the hydraulic pump with 3 hoses on the left side you have a hiden hydraulic filter. If it has a large hose that goes to an aloy block on the left side of the machine you have no hidden filter.
Draining the hydraulic oil isn't easy, the only way i have found is to remove a coupling on the aux hydraulics line and run the machine at idle. Use the right hand stick to get oil to flow out the coupling till it starts to groan and foam the oil. Shut down straight away. Re-fill your tank and re-check over the next few days as you get air out of the system.
The chain case should be emptied and mopped out every 1,000 hours. This is a fairly big job as you really need to remove the centre inspection plate that holds the park brake, you need to pump the oil out and mop it out with rags to get the black sludge out. You will have small metal particles from chan and sprocket wear, totally normal. You may get away with just taking the front one off and draining and filling thought here but you won't be able to fully mop it out but its much easier this way.
I advise you get the radiator cleaned or at least a good flush as you did say it was getting a bit warm.
Any problems or questions just yell!
Sorry for the spelling mistakes, no spell checker on this machine....

 

[daved]

All the filters can be cross refrenced, i have done it on mine.
Engine oil is simple, there should be a hose attached to the sump, remove the plug at the end and drain it. It may help to run the machine before to warm the oil a little, it helps dislodge and crud in the sump but the filter should have caught any of that. Change the filter plug the hose and re-fill.
There will be a filter at the top right, above your overflow tank. This is your main hydraulic filter.
It wouldn't hurt to fluch the cooling system, drain the coolant and run it through with water. Fill with clean water and put in some quality cooling system flush. Make sure you let the engine cool rite down before you add water or you risk cracking the head.
Un-do the 2 bolts at the front of the ROPS, lift the ROPS up and look at the blue pump, if there is a square block on the hydraulic pump with 3 hoses on the left side you have a hiden hydraulic filter. If it has a large hose that goes to an aloy block on the left side of the machine you have no hidden filter.
Draining the hydraulic oil isn't easy, the only way i have found is to remove a coupling on the aux hydraulics line and run the machine at idle. Use the right hand stick to get oil to flow out the coupling till it starts to groan and foam the oil. Shut down straight away. Re-fill your tank and re-check over the next few days as you get air out of the system.
The chain case should be emptied and mopped out every 1,000 hours. This is a fairly big job as you really need to remove the centre inspection plate that holds the park brake, you need to pump the oil out and mop it out with rags to get the black sludge out. You will have small metal particles from chan and sprocket wear, totally normal. You may get away with just taking the front one off and draining and filling thought here but you won't be able to fully mop it out but its much easier this way.
I advise you get the radiator cleaned or at least a good flush as you did say it was getting a bit warm.
Any problems or questions just yell!
Sorry for the spelling mistakes, no spell checker on this machine....

Thanks again I will get to work this weekend. Hopefully my manual will come in soon

 

[skidsteer.ca]

Thanks again I will get to work this weekend. Hopefully my manual will come in soon

Don't forget to remove the cover under the rad, above the engine and clean the oil coolerso the air can get throught the cooler and rad, very likely neglected service on the 743
Ken