i have a 06 s185 2200 hrs that i have taken out of service for safety issues. It was used last on a job driving along with a load then started violently going into a spin and could not shut off or stop spin. Luckily the machine shut itself off after several spins and no one was hurt. Towed it back to shop and put it on blocks. Now it starts and dies right out as if its being choked out by the hydraulic pressure of all controls being applied at once. No codes on machine and it is the joystick model. Anyone have any similar issues before i dig too far into it. Thanks
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Help Support SkidSteer Forum:
would that cause it to not stay running or should i be looking else where for that issue?My guess is the control block on top of the pump for the side that was pulling threw the spin is the problem. The vavle inside that control the swash plate is stuck.
If the unit is trying to drive on start up, it will put too much load on the engine trying to drive threw the brake, which it absolutely can't. That is probably what killed it when it wild. The operator in a panic flipped the seat bar up which sets the brake. The brake is a mechanical block that when applied can snub the engine even at full throttle. If it was electrical problem, it should of disabled the drive. If the control sees any problem with the controls, it locks out for saftey. That fact yours ran away tells me it is beyond the electrical system's control.would that cause it to not stay running or should i be looking else where for that issue?
Dan, If he got it up on jack stands could he enter the calibration mode? He could do the forward/left/green button, reverse/right/green button and that would stop the drive if there's not electrical problem. Once the calibration is entered it kills the drive right? So couldn't he recalibrate and see if it helps?If the unit is trying to drive on start up, it will put too much load on the engine trying to drive threw the brake, which it absolutely can't. That is probably what killed it when it wild. The operator in a panic flipped the seat bar up which sets the brake. The brake is a mechanical block that when applied can snub the engine even at full throttle. If it was electrical problem, it should of disabled the drive. If the control sees any problem with the controls, it locks out for saftey. That fact yours ran away tells me it is beyond the electrical system's control.
My shooting from the hip thought is it is not electrical. The SJC drive works kinda like the aux does. There are forward and reverse solenoids. To go forward the coil energizers and by moving the stem, it meters oil to a side of a spool.vavle. Movive the spool vavle turns the swash plate to make it drive. If anything is wrong besides a bad coil, the machine doesn't know it. One thing I do wonder thou, it should be measuring swash angle. For my theory to be right, the one side has to be showing the swash is out of neutral.Dan, If he got it up on jack stands could he enter the calibration mode? He could do the forward/left/green button, reverse/right/green button and that would stop the drive if there's not electrical problem. Once the calibration is entered it kills the drive right? So couldn't he recalibrate and see if it helps?
i have the machine up on blocks now as a safety precaution. When i try to start it up the left side wheels try to spin and no movement on the right sideMy shooting from the hip thought is it is not electrical. The SJC drive works kinda like the aux does. There are forward and reverse solenoids. To go forward the coil energizers and by moving the stem, it meters oil to a side of a spool.vavle. Movive the spool vavle turns the swash plate to make it drive. If anything is wrong besides a bad coil, the machine doesn't know it. One thing I do wonder thou, it should be measuring swash angle. For my theory to be right, the one side has to be showing the swash is out of neutral.
I'd look at the control block on top of the left side of the hydrostat. Also I'd spin the filters to check for signs of metal. This could be an early warning sign of something letting go.i have the machine up on blocks now as a safety precaution. When i try to start it up the left side wheels try to spin and no movement on the right side
Well the control block is on back order for a few more weeks. Replaced filters and flushed all fluid just for safe measures. Both were clean so that's good. Now I'm able to pull 2 codes 40-05 right joystick not in neutral and 75-17 left slosh plate not in neutral. Is the 75-17 associated with the control block?I'd look at the control block on top of the left side of the hydrostat. Also I'd spin the filters to check for signs of metal. This could be an early warning sign of something letting go.
Yup, the control block is what controls the swash plate.Well the control block is on back order for a few more weeks. Replaced filters and flushed all fluid just for safe measures. Both were clean so that's good. Now I'm able to pull 2 codes 40-05 right joystick not in neutral and 75-17 left slosh plate not in neutral. Is the 75-17 associated with the control block?
rjitreeman0909
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 3, 2018
- Messages
- 54
Can you swap the control blocks? L to R? If yes and problems then R side it is control block for sure. If problem stays on L side it would seem to be a mechanical issue such as swash plate stuck or system is reading swash plate angle of 0 when at an angle that causes hard driving on that side.Well the control block is on back order for a few more weeks. Replaced filters and flushed all fluid just for safe measures. Both were clean so that's good. Now I'm able to pull 2 codes 40-05 right joystick not in neutral and 75-17 left slosh plate not in neutral. Is the 75-17 associated with the control block?
Good luck.
