I purchased a 2003 Bobcat S175 last fall for personal use. It had ~1600 hours on it when I bought it and I've put on about 35 hours since then. As you can see I don't use it a lot...mostly light landscaping in the summer/fall and snowplowing in the winter. The filters have the number 1530 written in black marker on them. I assume that is the number of hours the filters were changed at. I am looking for recommendations as to when to change which filters. I'll probably buy a service manual for it, but I'm saving up for some tracks and forks first (anyone got a deal for me?). I contacted my local bobcat dealer and asked for a quote to send someone out and do the filter/oil change for me so I could see how its done...plus pick their brain a bit. But if I get good advice from this forum, I may skip the service call. I'm not afraid to get my hands dirty...I change my own oil, filters, plugs, wires, starters, alternators, etc... on my vehicles, but the bobcat is a new animal for me. I found a thread on here that recommended Wix filters. Their prices look good...anyone have a bad experience with Wix? Thanks in advance.
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skidsteer.ca
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There is nothing to hard here. The recomended service intervals are on a sticker inside the tailgate
Engine oil is every 200 hours I believe (maybe 250, see sticker), or once a year. Filter is on the tailgate side of the engine. Fuel filter is on the aluminum bracket below the engine oil filter, change as needed, Just before freeze up is a good idea.
Air filters are serviced when the dash warning indicates its needed. There is a hydraulic filter on the rh top side inside the tailgate,
Hydraulic oil is changed every 1000 hours. Drain the reservoir and refill. (you have to remove a hose to do this on my 2000 model 773)
Chain case has a level plug on the front of the machine just above where the tie down loop is. Sometime they get water in them from a loose cover on the top side. Look for creamy colored oil.
There are 2 3/4" wrench size nuts in the vary front corners of the cab (one on each side) remove these and tilt the cab up and back. Under here is 2 grease nipples on the steering lever pivots. and a oil level on the aluminum 90 degree gear box that drives the cooling fan from a V belt off the engine. Check the level of the 80/90 gear oil in this gear box. Also check the spring loaded tensioner on the V belt, they stick sometimes and the belt begines to slip causing high water temps.
Also there is a spring loaded belt tensioner on the main drive belt (under a plastic cover on the LH side of the engine) it runs from the flywheel to your hydraulic and hydrostactic pump (note these pumps are combined in the same unit) There should be a indicator on the idler of this tripple v belt. The indicator point to 3 oclock when the spring tensioner is would up tight, and works it way back to 1 oclock as the belt wears. These usually don't need adjusted often (200 to 400 hours) but it is good to inspect the belt for cracks at oil change intervals. If it gets too loose the belt will squeal when your pushing hard and lifting (as this demands the most power from the pumps)
Wix filters are as good as anybodys.
I may have forgot something but thats the jist of it.
We also new Tracks Plus and McLaren tracks and carry the Erskine and Ati line of attachments. (shameless plug)
Ken
Engine oil is every 200 hours I believe (maybe 250, see sticker), or once a year. Filter is on the tailgate side of the engine. Fuel filter is on the aluminum bracket below the engine oil filter, change as needed, Just before freeze up is a good idea.
Air filters are serviced when the dash warning indicates its needed. There is a hydraulic filter on the rh top side inside the tailgate,
Hydraulic oil is changed every 1000 hours. Drain the reservoir and refill. (you have to remove a hose to do this on my 2000 model 773)
Chain case has a level plug on the front of the machine just above where the tie down loop is. Sometime they get water in them from a loose cover on the top side. Look for creamy colored oil.
There are 2 3/4" wrench size nuts in the vary front corners of the cab (one on each side) remove these and tilt the cab up and back. Under here is 2 grease nipples on the steering lever pivots. and a oil level on the aluminum 90 degree gear box that drives the cooling fan from a V belt off the engine. Check the level of the 80/90 gear oil in this gear box. Also check the spring loaded tensioner on the V belt, they stick sometimes and the belt begines to slip causing high water temps.
Also there is a spring loaded belt tensioner on the main drive belt (under a plastic cover on the LH side of the engine) it runs from the flywheel to your hydraulic and hydrostactic pump (note these pumps are combined in the same unit) There should be a indicator on the idler of this tripple v belt. The indicator point to 3 oclock when the spring tensioner is would up tight, and works it way back to 1 oclock as the belt wears. These usually don't need adjusted often (200 to 400 hours) but it is good to inspect the belt for cracks at oil change intervals. If it gets too loose the belt will squeal when your pushing hard and lifting (as this demands the most power from the pumps)
Wix filters are as good as anybodys.
I may have forgot something but thats the jist of it.
We also new Tracks Plus and McLaren tracks and carry the Erskine and Ati line of attachments. (shameless plug)
Ken
Thank you for the information. Sounds like I'll have an excuse to get away from the wife some Saturday afternoon
My local dealer quoted be the Hyd fluid filter (6661248), but also quoted 2 other Hyd filters...it sounds like they are an inline type filter, part number 6661807. Are these hard to change? Oh..and any recommendations on what kind/brand of grease to use? Keep in mind we have hot summers and very cold winters (northern Wisconsin). Sorry for the jumble of words...for some reason when I post my message, I lose all spacing between paragraphs. I'll have to check my account settings.
skidsteer.ca
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Thank you for the information. Sounds like I'll have an excuse to get away from the wife some Saturday afternoon
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| [TD] Use HTML Editor (Free Text Box) The 2 inline filters are "case drain" filters for the drive motors and are mounted in a small hose 1/2 way between the front and rear tire, one on each side of the machine. Lift the cab and look for a aluminum canister 1/2 the size of your fist. I doubt you will find much in these. hey are basically a bronze screen, you can replace or rince them at your discretion. They really only get debris in them if a wheel motor is failing. You need a coupler large wrenches to unscrew the canister to acess the filters. All other filters lube, hydraulic and fuel are spin on. We use a Texas Refinery grease, it a real heavy red grease and sticky as the day is long. In the winter we switch to their lighter stuff just so you can pump it. But generally any good multipurpose grease will work. In the grand sweep of things its usually more about how often it gets greased then what grease you use. Ken |
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