Rebuild or trade up?

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woodhick

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Joined
Jul 13, 2012
Messages
19
I have a 843 bobcat that I recently purchased. It is in what I would call fair conditon. I had to have the injector pump rebuilt (Isuzu) and re do the lift arm seals. I have been runnig it for a couple months now. There is an issue with lowering the lift arms. Cant seem to lower them easily push on pedal and sometimes it will lower ok and sometimes drop all at once. I am pretty sure its a linkage (bushing) problem. Machine shows 3,300 hours but meter is not working I would guess it has quite a few more. It seems to pull ok but left side seems stronger than right. I can see that someone has been in the lower end of the engine at one time (gasket maker on oil pan). It does seem to run fine though. I am currently in the machine for about $3,000 not counting a new bucket. I also got a set of forks and a Case D100 backhoe attachment with machine, plus a grapple bucket that works good but looks pretty rough. I am trying to decide it I should put this machine in my shop this winter and rebuild/redo it or sell and trade up to newer machine. What is the benefits of a newer style machine. This machine does not have any electronics and I am pretty mechanicaly inclined but not so much with the electronics. My plan is to tear it down an put new bearings seals and chians in the belly. Machine has 4 faom filled tires that are completely wore out so I will need new tires and rims. In our expert opinions would I be better off to restore this machine or move it and get something newer. My needs are just to use it around my farm 30 acres and I have a sawmill that I will use it around for moving logs and such. About how much does it cost to redo bearings and chains? Thanks for any input.
 

jerry

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May 3, 2007
Messages
2,043
If the attachment are in working condition you pretty much got the bobcat free. I would guess new tires and wheels will be around 1000 so put them on and make the minor adjustments it needs and run it. Why do you think it needs new chains and bearings? If the chain case oil looks ok when you change it and not much slack in the chains I would leave well enough alone for awhile.
 

Bobcatdan

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May 3, 2012
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1,684
If the attachment are in working condition you pretty much got the bobcat free. I would guess new tires and wheels will be around 1000 so put them on and make the minor adjustments it needs and run it. Why do you think it needs new chains and bearings? If the chain case oil looks ok when you change it and not much slack in the chains I would leave well enough alone for awhile.
If you don't value your time very much, doing these repairs yourself are not the worst. If you brought into the shop for me to do, my labor at $76 would exceed the value of the mcahine. With foam filled tires, it is about a horse a piece to save the old rims vs buying new. Look into this, we do a recap exchange, as long as your wheels arn't destroyed, we swap out yours for recaps. i think it is a little over $200 a wheel, by far the cheapest option.
 
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woodhick

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Jul 13, 2012
Messages
19
If you don't value your time very much, doing these repairs yourself are not the worst. If you brought into the shop for me to do, my labor at $76 would exceed the value of the mcahine. With foam filled tires, it is about a horse a piece to save the old rims vs buying new. Look into this, we do a recap exchange, as long as your wheels arn't destroyed, we swap out yours for recaps. i think it is a little over $200 a wheel, by far the cheapest option.
Thanks for the replies. I am just wanting to get a reliable machine for personal use. I have checked the "slop" by raising the front wheels and I can turn them about 2"-2 1/2", so chains are not trashed but thought I would replace all of that if I decide to go into the belly. The biggest priority is the machine is loosing hydraulic oil and not much to the outside. I am leaking some that runs out the bottom. I am guessing that I have a drive motor leaking into the inside. I have topped off the reservoir twice with about 2 gallons each time. I have not opened up the chain case yet to see inside of it and it is not coming out of it that I see yet. Was just running it for awhile to see what all is wrong. The cross bar between the lift arms has a patch welded on it and a crack beside of it so will need to weld that back up. Slop in pins on lift arms is between 1/16" and 1/8". Looks like someone has welded a new boss on the outside but the inside ones look original by the welds. Can tracks be ran over foam filled tires? I may purchase a set of new tracks and put over the old tires. There does not appear to be enough room for tracks. Does the rims reverse for more clearance? Thanks.
 
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woodhick

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Jul 13, 2012
Messages
19
Thanks for the replies. I am just wanting to get a reliable machine for personal use. I have checked the "slop" by raising the front wheels and I can turn them about 2"-2 1/2", so chains are not trashed but thought I would replace all of that if I decide to go into the belly. The biggest priority is the machine is loosing hydraulic oil and not much to the outside. I am leaking some that runs out the bottom. I am guessing that I have a drive motor leaking into the inside. I have topped off the reservoir twice with about 2 gallons each time. I have not opened up the chain case yet to see inside of it and it is not coming out of it that I see yet. Was just running it for awhile to see what all is wrong. The cross bar between the lift arms has a patch welded on it and a crack beside of it so will need to weld that back up. Slop in pins on lift arms is between 1/16" and 1/8". Looks like someone has welded a new boss on the outside but the inside ones look original by the welds. Can tracks be ran over foam filled tires? I may purchase a set of new tracks and put over the old tires. There does not appear to be enough room for tracks. Does the rims reverse for more clearance? Thanks.
Forgot to mention Jerry on the attachments. The hoe has very little use and all pins are good and tight but machine has set outside. Boom and dipper cylinders are ok but the one for the pivot (slew) is rusted pretty bad. I have it covered in grease now until I can get time to pull it and see if it will clean up or if I will have to have it re-chromed or a new one made. Also it is a Case hoe so It is not really set up for a Bobcat. Will have to fab some attachment points to make it solid.
 

jerry

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May 3, 2007
Messages
2,043
Forgot to mention Jerry on the attachments. The hoe has very little use and all pins are good and tight but machine has set outside. Boom and dipper cylinders are ok but the one for the pivot (slew) is rusted pretty bad. I have it covered in grease now until I can get time to pull it and see if it will clean up or if I will have to have it re-chromed or a new one made. Also it is a Case hoe so It is not really set up for a Bobcat. Will have to fab some attachment points to make it solid.
Quite a few members here have that model hoe, I've had mine on a bobcat and now the New Holland, pictures in the media section of different methods of mounting. I would think that tracks over foam tires might not have enough give if you get a rock or something between the track and tire. Still think you got a great deal.on that.
 

SkidRoe

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Dec 10, 2009
Messages
1,885
Just my opinion, but I would fix up what you have. Newer machines are nice, but much more complicated and overkill for the average home owner. It sounds like you have a solid engine and hydraulic system, other than the drive motor seals (simple fix); sounds like a good starting point to me. Buying a different, used machine may just be exchanging your machines issues for somebody else's problems. Better the devil you know, I always say.
I don't know what you do for a living, but if you are like me, wrenching on my machine is a form of therapy, as I spend most of my days sitting at a desk. I can't put an hourly rate on maintaining my sanity!! : P
My $0.02,
SR
 

mahans7

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Joined
Aug 22, 2012
Messages
317
Just my opinion, but I would fix up what you have. Newer machines are nice, but much more complicated and overkill for the average home owner. It sounds like you have a solid engine and hydraulic system, other than the drive motor seals (simple fix); sounds like a good starting point to me. Buying a different, used machine may just be exchanging your machines issues for somebody else's problems. Better the devil you know, I always say.
I don't know what you do for a living, but if you are like me, wrenching on my machine is a form of therapy, as I spend most of my days sitting at a desk. I can't put an hourly rate on maintaining my sanity!! : P
My $0.02,
SR
2 carrier seals, 1 cross member weld and your time likely less than $100. You can sell the Case backhoe and get a used BC hoe(no money or little difference). I vote for your current machine(you definitely wouldn't want mine in its currently to be renovated state). SR: hourly rate of sanity = priceless.
 

skidsteer.ca

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Joined
Jan 20, 2006
Messages
3,853
2 carrier seals, 1 cross member weld and your time likely less than $100. You can sell the Case backhoe and get a used BC hoe(no money or little difference). I vote for your current machine(you definitely wouldn't want mine in its currently to be renovated state). SR: hourly rate of sanity = priceless.
The 843 has a rep as being a good solid machine. Not sure if they have the wierd servo steering that the 853 used. If so you may want to test drive a newer S175 S185 with foot controls, ( not the joysticks as mortals can't repair those) because the 700 series, now S150 S175 S185 do drive much better then a 853, not sure about your 843 model though. Hard to expain this but the 700's are more precise and easier to control.
Of course its up to you. But I know I would not take my 853 back over my 185. Both lift the same. The 185 is way smoother to control. About the only thing the 853 had on it was larger tire size for a simular weight machine. Of course the 185 cost alot more too....
Your leak could be some minor seals or orings, your chains sound fine.
The foot pedal linkages never get lubed and wear from neglect. it will likely be a minor problem of something worn and rubbing/catching on something else, or it just needs some spray lube.
My .02
Ken
 
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woodhick

Member
Joined
Jul 13, 2012
Messages
19
The 843 has a rep as being a good solid machine. Not sure if they have the wierd servo steering that the 853 used. If so you may want to test drive a newer S175 S185 with foot controls, ( not the joysticks as mortals can't repair those) because the 700 series, now S150 S175 S185 do drive much better then a 853, not sure about your 843 model though. Hard to expain this but the 700's are more precise and easier to control.
Of course its up to you. But I know I would not take my 853 back over my 185. Both lift the same. The 185 is way smoother to control. About the only thing the 853 had on it was larger tire size for a simular weight machine. Of course the 185 cost alot more too....
Your leak could be some minor seals or orings, your chains sound fine.
The foot pedal linkages never get lubed and wear from neglect. it will likely be a minor problem of something worn and rubbing/catching on something else, or it just needs some spray lube.
My .02
Ken
Thanks Ken I am going forward right now with keeping this machine. I have already stripped and repainted it and put on new tires and rims. Got the seals for it in Friday for the drive motors. I also found I have real bad axle seal leak that will need addressed. My plan is to run it temporary and put it in shop next month or so and redo the axle bearings/seals and change the motor seals at that time. Machine runs good so will probably keep it since I can work on it and not get the newer machines with so much electronics on them. I am sure they are better but for me a farm machine not sure I need it.
 
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