Thanks for the reply. I think it is a C series. But I will have to confirm that. Would my owners manual tell me where to find the particular relay for the solenoid? I haven't a clue. First I will start checking fuses. But I suspect it is a relay, since it was intermittent before it failed completely. There is a "black box" about the size of a can of sardines, in series with the wire harness that is bolted to the right inside of the engine compartment. Is that the timer? Could that have failed? It doesn't look like an easy one to switch out.Yes there is a relay and fuse. The relays are all the same so you can just swap for testing. Also if yours is an F series, there should be a timer modual the looks kinda like a relay the is plugged in series with the the solenoid and engine harness.
The relays are mounted above the battery. If you clean the crud off the bracket, the decal telling which relay is what my still be there. The black box you see could be the timer. What you discribe is not what I picture they look like, but that could be an earlier set up I that I don't recall off the top of my head.Thanks for the reply. I think it is a C series. But I will have to confirm that. Would my owners manual tell me where to find the particular relay for the solenoid? I haven't a clue. First I will start checking fuses. But I suspect it is a relay, since it was intermittent before it failed completely. There is a "black box" about the size of a can of sardines, in series with the wire harness that is bolted to the right inside of the engine compartment. Is that the timer? Could that have failed? It doesn't look like an easy one to switch out.
Confirmed that it is the C series. Checked all the fuses in the two blocks. All good. The farthest relay is labeled "shutdown". I took that one out and have a new one coming. The rest are labeled starter, lights, brake etc. If this doesn't work, I'll suspect the timer. I notice that when I turn on the key it activates the solenoid but doesn't hold it. The valve shuts off again right away. Must be that relay. Thanks again.The relays are mounted above the battery. If you clean the crud off the bracket, the decal telling which relay is what my still be there. The black box you see could be the timer. What you discribe is not what I picture they look like, but that could be an earlier set up I that I don't recall off the top of my head.
The new relay changed nothing. The black box is indeed the timer #6665522. There is one on ebay for a little over $100.00. But it looks different than my original. Like you said, like the relay. The new one looks like it's got 3 plugs where mine has two. Think it will work? What do you need a timer on a fuel shutoff for? It's on and off with the key. Can I wire it direct with a fused link?Confirmed that it is the C series. Checked all the fuses in the two blocks. All good. The farthest relay is labeled "shutdown". I took that one out and have a new one coming. The rest are labeled starter, lights, brake etc. If this doesn't work, I'll suspect the timer. I notice that when I turn on the key it activates the solenoid but doesn't hold it. The valve shuts off again right away. Must be that relay. Thanks again.
After I posted the last one I learned from a related post that the linkage should have minimal clearance from the stop. Lengthened the linkage and it functions perfectly. The new solenoid was functioning but the relay must have tripped off when it couldn't center in the coil. Oh well, I've got a spare relay out of the deal. Thanks for your help. I'm still curious about the need for a timer anyway.The new relay changed nothing. The black box is indeed the timer #6665522. There is one on ebay for a little over $100.00. But it looks different than my original. Like you said, like the relay. The new one looks like it's got 3 plugs where mine has two. Think it will work? What do you need a timer on a fuel shutoff for? It's on and off with the key. Can I wire it direct with a fused link?
The timer is important. To pull the fuel solenoid requires 12 volts. BUT, once the engine starts, the timer changes the voltage to about 5 volts to hold the fuel solenoid open. (If it keep the 12 volts there because of a bad timer, it will eventually burn out the solenoid. Then when you turn off the key, the solenoid releases and shuts down the engine. If you "hot" wire it, it will work for a while but eventually you'll pay the piper. Good luckAfter I posted the last one I learned from a related post that the linkage should have minimal clearance from the stop. Lengthened the linkage and it functions perfectly. The new solenoid was functioning but the relay must have tripped off when it couldn't center in the coil. Oh well, I've got a spare relay out of the deal. Thanks for your help. I'm still curious about the need for a timer anyway.
The solenoid opens the valve, but when I hit the starter, the valve shuts again. I'm thinking that the timer is only delivering the 5 volts and closes while cranking. Any suggestions of a good website to get a new one coming?The timer is important. To pull the fuel solenoid requires 12 volts. BUT, once the engine starts, the timer changes the voltage to about 5 volts to hold the fuel solenoid open. (If it keep the 12 volts there because of a bad timer, it will eventually burn out the solenoid. Then when you turn off the key, the solenoid releases and shuts down the engine. If you "hot" wire it, it will work for a while but eventually you'll pay the piper. Good luck
Depending on what the serial number is there may not be a timer module. On the early 753's the fuel solenoid got power from the starter solenoid during engine cranking and then switched to the relay after the key was turned back to run. Check to see if there's a white/blue wire from the fuel solenoid to the starter solenoid. This is the wire that supplies power during cranking on the older models and it may have a bad connection.The solenoid opens the valve, but when I hit the starter, the valve shuts again. I'm thinking that the timer is only delivering the 5 volts and closes while cranking. Any suggestions of a good website to get a new one coming?
It does have the timer. Bobcat #6665522. Three leads. Blk, Wht and Red. Goes from the engine wire harness to the timer then out to the solenoid. The one I was able to find on ebay looks much different than the original black box. The new one looks more like the other relays and it has 3 plugs rather than the 2 male/female on the original. I might just bite the bullet and go to the Bobcat dealership. It almost has to be that timer. I've replaced everything else. Unless the starter has a bad armature or field coils causing it to draw huge amperage, thus starving the solenoid circuit. But it doesn't feel like that is the case. I sure appreciate the input. I'm gonna donate to this website. I hope you frequent posters get a piece of that. Knowlege is worth alot.Depending on what the serial number is there may not be a timer module. On the early 753's the fuel solenoid got power from the starter solenoid during engine cranking and then switched to the relay after the key was turned back to run. Check to see if there's a white/blue wire from the fuel solenoid to the starter solenoid. This is the wire that supplies power during cranking on the older models and it may have a bad connection.
The solenoid works this way, there are two 12 volt coils inside. Pull in and hold it. It takes both to pull it in then just hold in stays on. If its coming on then clunking off, your problem is the hold in circuit which swapping the timer a worth while try.It does have the timer. Bobcat #6665522. Three leads. Blk, Wht and Red. Goes from the engine wire harness to the timer then out to the solenoid. The one I was able to find on ebay looks much different than the original black box. The new one looks more like the other relays and it has 3 plugs rather than the 2 male/female on the original. I might just bite the bullet and go to the Bobcat dealership. It almost has to be that timer. I've replaced everything else. Unless the starter has a bad armature or field coils causing it to draw huge amperage, thus starving the solenoid circuit. But it doesn't feel like that is the case. I sure appreciate the input. I'm gonna donate to this website. I hope you frequent posters get a piece of that. Knowlege is worth alot.
According to the online parts manual 6665522 has been superseded by 6669415.The solenoid works this way, there are two 12 volt coils inside. Pull in and hold it. It takes both to pull it in then just hold in stays on. If its coming on then clunking off, your problem is the hold in circuit which swapping the timer a worth while try.
I just bought one for a 763F last week at the New Orleans Bobcat dealership. Price was $115 Can't remember what the part number was though....According to the online parts manual 6665522 has been superseded by 6669415.
http://stores.allskidsteers.com/oem-timer-solenoid-assembly-for-f-series-bobcat-skid-steer-6669415/
Replacing the timer resolved my problem. The solenoid and the relay could have been ok but I still saved huge over calling in Bobcat service. Keep up the good work. I've used this forum to trouble shoot a couple issues now with success. Donation on its way.I just bought one for a 763F last week at the New Orleans Bobcat dealership. Price was $115 Can't remember what the part number was though....