NH L785

[guycarrier]

Recent purchase. Two issues. 1- Right hand drive train is tired. Full forward RH stick causes Red Light and hardly moves the wheels. Full reverse stick - same problem. Correct terminology escapes me but, the lower pressure taken on the tee above the pumps hovers at better that 200 psi. At full throttle the RH side does move but with no real Umfp! FYI. Completely new oil, new filters (2 of them), fully cleaned strainer. I am trying to decide is it the pump or the motor or the pressure relief valve that is tired. Any ideas welcome. thanks, 2- The Bucket really only wants to curl up or down if and only if there is some movement on the ARMS peddle. If I try and move the peddle for the bucket there is a very slight movement and then is stalls. If I add some ARM peddle, the bucket wll curl up or down depending on the peddle decision of either up or down. Any ideas welcome. thanks,

 

[heatpumpproducts]

i recently had a simalar problem when trying out a new snow blower , i thought it was the pump , and changed it , but only afterwards looked at the linkages to the valve body , although my aux handel was down all the way it was not activating at full , i adjusted it and it solved more than one problem , the pedal bearings were lose so to compensate someone adjusted the leavers to quite the pumps . (its a new to me )too.
also after that the machine was so quite thier at least , when it would sit , it would creep, and the slitest move ment of the arms would quiet her down , and hold her still , again the bearings just need changing , after that i ballanced the leaver and rpm of each side while on blocks .
i had to flip the blocks at the top of the piston pump under the flat plate , thier was wear in them and the lobes that touched them had gone flat , as these don't move , i turned them 180 degrees ,and i was back in buisness.
it sound like yours is a bit more complex but it mite be something is flowing open and an adjustment could be posible to corect it , your presure ,i am not sure , ken mite be able to help you more ,he's the guru , here in that department .
do every thing that you can that cost nothing but time , don't over look the little things , the can add up . hope this helps. good luck.

 

[Earthwerks Unlimited]

i recently had a simalar problem when trying out a new snow blower , i thought it was the pump , and changed it , but only afterwards looked at the linkages to the valve body , although my aux handel was down all the way it was not activating at full , i adjusted it and it solved more than one problem , the pedal bearings were lose so to compensate someone adjusted the leavers to quite the pumps . (its a new to me )too.
also after that the machine was so quite thier at least , when it would sit , it would creep, and the slitest move ment of the arms would quiet her down , and hold her still , again the bearings just need changing , after that i ballanced the leaver and rpm of each side while on blocks .
i had to flip the blocks at the top of the piston pump under the flat plate , thier was wear in them and the lobes that touched them had gone flat , as these don't move , i turned them 180 degrees ,and i was back in buisness.
it sound like yours is a bit more complex but it mite be something is flowing open and an adjustment could be posible to corect it , your presure ,i am not sure , ken mite be able to help you more ,he's the guru , here in that department .
do every thing that you can that cost nothing but time , don't over look the little things , the can add up . hope this helps. good luck.

What did you pay for it?
Sounds to me like you're on the right track--it's tired. There's not a whole lot that goes wrong with these machines hydraulically. If you have to replace the 2 drive pumps, and 2 drive motors, and the aux. gear pump you could be looking at the same cost as anoter running machine with no issues. Used motors (are they good??) go for about $500-$1000 each, pumps sometimes double that each, aux. pump about $400-$500.
Sounds like you'll need to let a qualified technician---using a factory service manual and specifications---go through it before you start removing and replacing things. That'll cost probably $500-$800 to start.
And that's the just the start of it if it is tired---then there's mechainical stuff like worn control valves ($1000) and linkages ($?). And then there's the (4) drive chains and sprockets inside for the wheels.
My advice based on only what you have stated is--- get rid of it as soon as possible.
Parting it out may bring more money over a longer period of time--$3000 for a good engine is a start.

 

[mfyock]

GuyCarrier, I have an L785 I just picked up and the back window is broken out. I got a used glass and it measures 22 1/2" x 24 1/2" which appears too small for my opening. Would you be kind enough to throw a tape measure on your rear window glass and tell me the size? Some thing isnt right... Thanks Mike