Talk to a diesel injector shop, they may be able to clean and re-calibrate them far cheaper. There was a member here that got 4 done, $180? or there abouts. That was for new nozzles and a clean/calibrate. Cheaper than new and just as good.
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You might also want to switch the injectors. The two wet with the two dry and see if they stay the same. If the same two stay wet and the same two stay dry you know it's injectors for at least part of the problem. Good luck .Talk to a diesel injector shop, they may be able to clean and re-calibrate them far cheaper. There was a member here that got 4 done, $180? or there abouts. That was for new nozzles and a clean/calibrate. Cheaper than new and just as good.
I had them all crack tested, they all popped/sprayed at 3200psi and the pattern on all of them were great..... not sure what else to do, going to do a comprssion test tomorrow night, and tonight a pulled the pump out to check the pump cam to see if it had any flat spots (did not but the way) everything looked good on the pump, any other ideas ill sure be whilling to try them......... :-/You might also want to switch the injectors. The two wet with the two dry and see if they stay the same. If the same two stay wet and the same two stay dry you know it's injectors for at least part of the problem. Good luck .
How are the springs between the govenor and the injector pump? There should be a linkage there that uses or or two springs to put pressure on the injector rack to supply more fuel.I had them all crack tested, they all popped/sprayed at 3200psi and the pattern on all of them were great..... not sure what else to do, going to do a comprssion test tomorrow night, and tonight a pulled the pump out to check the pump cam to see if it had any flat spots (did not but the way) everything looked good on the pump, any other ideas ill sure be whilling to try them......... :-/
I think a compression test is the next thing to tackle. Its weird it starts easily when warm but won't rev up. Injectors are good, if the compression is good, its looking like it may be the pump or govenor setup.
Have you tried adding a hand primer to the fuel line? give it a bit more fuel pressure and see if its any happier?
I re-read that you said the exhaust is a little wet, its another sign of low compression not allowing the fuel to burn and its expelled as vapour not burnt gas.....
never checked the springs between the pump and gov. there is a linkage for the fuel shut off, i beleive and there is one or two external springs they all seem good if that whats your talking about. i will try to do the compression test tomorrow didnt get the tester home tonight form work but will tomorrow evening and will let you know what each one is..... yeah its been wird, my buddy is a diesel truck guys and hes kinda lost too but i think the compression test will tell alot of it being that the exhaust is wetHow are the springs between the govenor and the injector pump? There should be a linkage there that uses or or two springs to put pressure on the injector rack to supply more fuel.
I think a compression test is the next thing to tackle. Its weird it starts easily when warm but won't rev up. Injectors are good, if the compression is good, its looking like it may be the pump or govenor setup.
Have you tried adding a hand primer to the fuel line? give it a bit more fuel pressure and see if its any happier?
I re-read that you said the exhaust is a little wet, its another sign of low compression not allowing the fuel to burn and its expelled as vapour not burnt gas.....
well..... did a compression test this morrning and they all had exactly 400 psi which i think it would still run good, maybe start a little hard but im not going to rebuilt with consistent psi in all cylinders and above 300. I'm thinking maybe injection pump now? let me know thanksnever checked the springs between the pump and gov. there is a linkage for the fuel shut off, i beleive and there is one or two external springs they all seem good if that whats your talking about. i will try to do the compression test tomorrow didnt get the tester home tonight form work but will tomorrow evening and will let you know what each one is..... yeah its been wird, my buddy is a diesel truck guys and hes kinda lost too but i think the compression test will tell alot of it being that the exhaust is wet
Try using your glow plugs longer on cold starts. I have a 553 and I think it has the same engine. Mine is very cold blooded but I have started it below zero by using the glow plugs longer.well..... did a compression test this morrning and they all had exactly 400 psi which i think it would still run good, maybe start a little hard but im not going to rebuilt with consistent psi in all cylinders and above 300. I'm thinking maybe injection pump now? let me know thanks
Ivan.........that will help with the smoking and wont run over quarter throttle?Try using your glow plugs longer on cold starts. I have a 553 and I think it has the same engine. Mine is very cold blooded but I have started it below zero by using the glow plugs longer.
400psi is pretty good!Ivan.........that will help with the smoking and wont run over quarter throttle?
With the pump out, did you notice if the rack on the pump was free to slide from side to side? As it moves it alters how much fuel is delivered to the injectors. If for some reason its not moving far enough it will cause low speed. The govenor pulls this rack from side to side to change speed too. Its possible it could be something in there too.....
tazza....yeah i checked that out this morrning and everything moves freely, how far should it move? the springs all looked good in there. if i pull the govener cover off (back of pump casting area.... will anything pop out of there that i should know of? going to pull that off and look in there. I looked in with the borascoop but couldnt see very much in there from where the injector cartradge goes.....400psi is pretty good!
With the pump out, did you notice if the rack on the pump was free to slide from side to side? As it moves it alters how much fuel is delivered to the injectors. If for some reason its not moving far enough it will cause low speed. The govenor pulls this rack from side to side to change speed too. Its possible it could be something in there too.....
I can't tell you how far it should move, sorry. If its not binding up, it should be ok.tazza....yeah i checked that out this morrning and everything moves freely, how far should it move? the springs all looked good in there. if i pull the govener cover off (back of pump casting area.... will anything pop out of there that i should know of? going to pull that off and look in there. I looked in with the borascoop but couldnt see very much in there from where the injector cartradge goes.....
There shouldn't be anything that would fly out. The spring can be rather tight, but it should lift off ok though.
well pulled it off and everything looked good, i put it all back together and now it wont start or fire? do i have to crack the injectors? if so how do i do that?I can't tell you how far it should move, sorry. If its not binding up, it should be ok.
There shouldn't be anything that would fly out. The spring can be rather tight, but it should lift off ok though.
scratch that got it running, still starts hard...... when running will idles (alittle rought) and when i go to rev it up now i have to move the throtle back and forth fast a couple times to get it to rev up. will only rev to about 1/4 throtle still when it does..... thinking i should send the pump out, have it tested and rebuilt.... what do you guys think?well pulled it off and everything looked good, i put it all back together and now it wont start or fire? do i have to crack the injectors? if so how do i do that?
You shouldn't need to wiggle the throttle to get it to rev...... It could be the pump being tight, but it could also be the govenor.....scratch that got it running, still starts hard...... when running will idles (alittle rought) and when i go to rev it up now i have to move the throtle back and forth fast a couple times to get it to rev up. will only rev to about 1/4 throtle still when it does..... thinking i should send the pump out, have it tested and rebuilt.... what do you guys think?
Sorry i can't give you a firm answer as to what it is, i know how frustrating it is.
yeah i understand.. any advice is great right now, i sent the pump out on monday to have it rebuilt and should get it back tomorrow (thursday), i'm hoping to get it back together tomorrow night or friday afternoon after work. as for the timeing, i pulled the far back cover off to see if it was a pressed on gear or a key way, it was a keyway so i doubt the timming is off, i hope the rebuild takes care of this... then wheel seal, front cylinder seal and new hydrolic fluid and hope to test it out on sat.... will keep you informed thanks for now codyYou shouldn't need to wiggle the throttle to get it to rev...... It could be the pump being tight, but it could also be the govenor.....
Sorry i can't give you a firm answer as to what it is, i know how frustrating it is.
ok..... got the pump rebuilt and still does the same thing..... heres a list of what i've done -new fuel cap -blew through all the return lines (great flow through all) -great fuel flow -new fuel and filter -good compression 400psi on all 4 -tested the injectors and all tested good with good spray at 3200psi Its still starts hard when cold, when warm starts fine. When at a idle runs nice and smotth, when i idle up it will only go about 1/4 throltle and misses and smokes alot. At idle it still smokes but not near as bad as when opend up Guy at injectio/pump shop told me maybe timming. Does anyone know how to time this motor or explain to me how to time it. It is the kubota v1902 4 cyilinder diesl with cartridge style injection pump. OR do you know of a good wesite that walks you thorough timming this motor? thanks for the help codyyeah i understand.. any advice is great right now, i sent the pump out on monday to have it rebuilt and should get it back tomorrow (thursday), i'm hoping to get it back together tomorrow night or friday afternoon after work. as for the timeing, i pulled the far back cover off to see if it was a pressed on gear or a key way, it was a keyway so i doubt the timming is off, i hope the rebuild takes care of this... then wheel seal, front cylinder seal and new hydrolic fluid and hope to test it out on sat.... will keep you informed thanks for now cody
Timing is simply make sure all the dots line up. Rotate the engine till the idler gear dots match up with the injector cam, rocker cam and crank shaft. If they all line up (you may need to rotate the engine a few times) the timing is right.ok..... got the pump rebuilt and still does the same thing..... heres a list of what i've done -new fuel cap -blew through all the return lines (great flow through all) -great fuel flow -new fuel and filter -good compression 400psi on all 4 -tested the injectors and all tested good with good spray at 3200psi Its still starts hard when cold, when warm starts fine. When at a idle runs nice and smotth, when i idle up it will only go about 1/4 throltle and misses and smokes alot. At idle it still smokes but not near as bad as when opend up Guy at injectio/pump shop told me maybe timming. Does anyone know how to time this motor or explain to me how to time it. It is the kubota v1902 4 cyilinder diesl with cartridge style injection pump. OR do you know of a good wesite that walks you thorough timming this motor? thanks for the help cody
The thing that gets me is it starts fine when warm, this indicates to me that the timing is right or else it would have a hard time starting.
The fuel system, is the bleed screw on the injector pump closed? Can you add a hand primer to the fuel line? when it starts, give it a good squeeze and see if it will rev up. I doubt this is the problem as smoke is excessive not lack of fuel that i'm thinking could be an issue.
Failing that, it could be the govenor i guess. I'm just trying to think of a way that you can manually open up the throttle on the injector pump without the govenor.
The thing with the govenor, if its not working right, it would just lower the speed, not cause smoke.... It just alters the amount of fuel the pump is delivering.....
Can you look up my profile and send me an email? i have a manual for this engine, pretty sure i do. It may give you more things to try or you may see something that yours doesn't have. It will be pretty large, but i can send it to you in smaller pieces and you can re-construct it at your end.
With the injector pump, did you note that there was a spring on one end of the block? It pushes on one end of the injector pump rack. Not sure if it could be an issue, but its possible it was knocked off when pulling or putting the pump back in.
their are no dots on the cams its a key way, there is a cover on the back part of the block (closest to radiator) ands its just a keyway and a gear in there no dots. the fuel bleed screw is open, i even tryed to close when it was running and that didnt help either, i think shes getting plenty of fuel the way the exhaust looks after it runs for a while (wet) and its not coolent because the coolent level has not changed as for the spring, it was there but it stayed in the casting where the pump goes going to pull it out again to see if it got pushed down in there sideways mabe when i put the pump back in, i'll send you an e-mail thanks tazza for your help its way cheaper to do it yourself then by a dealerTiming is simply make sure all the dots line up. Rotate the engine till the idler gear dots match up with the injector cam, rocker cam and crank shaft. If they all line up (you may need to rotate the engine a few times) the timing is right.
The thing that gets me is it starts fine when warm, this indicates to me that the timing is right or else it would have a hard time starting.
The fuel system, is the bleed screw on the injector pump closed? Can you add a hand primer to the fuel line? when it starts, give it a good squeeze and see if it will rev up. I doubt this is the problem as smoke is excessive not lack of fuel that i'm thinking could be an issue.
Failing that, it could be the govenor i guess. I'm just trying to think of a way that you can manually open up the throttle on the injector pump without the govenor.
The thing with the govenor, if its not working right, it would just lower the speed, not cause smoke.... It just alters the amount of fuel the pump is delivering.....
Can you look up my profile and send me an email? i have a manual for this engine, pretty sure i do. It may give you more things to try or you may see something that yours doesn't have. It will be pretty large, but i can send it to you in smaller pieces and you can re-construct it at your end.
With the injector pump, did you note that there was a spring on one end of the block? It pushes on one end of the injector pump rack. Not sure if it could be an issue, but its possible it was knocked off when pulling or putting the pump back in.
Sorry for the delay, got your email i'll send the manual, just need to find it.their are no dots on the cams its a key way, there is a cover on the back part of the block (closest to radiator) ands its just a keyway and a gear in there no dots. the fuel bleed screw is open, i even tryed to close when it was running and that didnt help either, i think shes getting plenty of fuel the way the exhaust looks after it runs for a while (wet) and its not coolent because the coolent level has not changed as for the spring, it was there but it stayed in the casting where the pump goes going to pull it out again to see if it got pushed down in there sideways mabe when i put the pump back in, i'll send you an e-mail thanks tazza for your help its way cheaper to do it yourself then by a dealer
The bleed screw should be closed when running, without you get low fuel pressure and the engine can actually stall. I had this with a V1702, it would start then just conk out.
oh ok didnt know that, that had to be closed, tll try that i put it back together chanigng hydro fluid and fixing one wheel seal b4 i can start it againSorry for the delay, got your email i'll send the manual, just need to find it.
The bleed screw should be closed when running, without you get low fuel pressure and the engine can actually stall. I had this with a V1702, it would start then just conk out.
