The check valves have a steel ball in them which blocks the flow of oil in one direction. The tubes can break and the ball is no longer present allowing oil to free flow in both directions and not build pressure. The tow valves are turned a quarter turn when you need to pull the machine so the oil can escape from the hydro motors and that allows the wheels to turn.
When you put the hydro pump together did you have a slight gap between the back plate and the pump housing before you installed the bolts or did the plate fit right down on the housing? You need to have a gap so the rotating group is preloaded, when the bolts are tightened, to the back plate and swash plate for the pump to work. The gap is usually 1/8".
I thought about the tow valves not being in the right position but since you said it had been working I discounted that as a possible cause. The tow valves just lift the relief valves off their seats. Granted the result would be what you are experiencing, but the valves can not turn on their own. Another thought was the relief valves but again since it had been working it was unlikely that both failed at the same time. Another thought was a broken chain in the chain case, but I would think you would have noticed it when you removed the hydro motor. If you can't find a cause then you may need to reinstall the pump and motor but instead of attaching the large hoses to the pump cap the fittings on the pump. Start the engine and move the steering lever. If the pump is working it will pull the engine down. If it pulls the engine down then you have a problem in the motor. I mentioned the gap above in the pump and you should also have had a gap in the motor when you reassembled it.
You also have a coupler between the two hydro pumps but if it failed or the splines stripped your hydraulic pump would also quit working. Did the charge pressure light come on when the hydro quit? Did the hydraulics continue to work, boom and bucket?