Newbe owner m610

[tima]

Hi Just purchased an m610 on propane. Has a little over 2000 hrs and runs like a top. Just need to fix a couple of cobbleups like birdscratch repair welding on the bucket cylinder attachment points and bucket. The hydraulic variable speed pulley also is frozen but this should be a simple fix. A few hydraulic steel lines that someone brazed and the normal weathered hydraulic hoses. Machine has 4 new wheels and deep lug tires on it. Bought this from a freind for $1800. He purchased it from a local fertilizer plant that shut down many years ago and has just been sitting inside. I went there a year ago to help him load it , we hooked up the propane tank , loosened up the throttle linkage and it fired right up. I needed something to move dirt and grading and purchasing a small tractor with a loader was out of the question. This should fit the bill and i could not beat the price. Just needs a little TLC. If anybody nows where i can get a cheep service manual for this please let me know. Tim

 

[owensge]

I got mine on E-Bay from maxxwedge. He sells both the service and parts manuals.

 

[Hondaman900]

I found my local Bobcat dealer to be cheaper for the original factory manuals. The going price on eBay for the user manual was $30+ while the real thing from the dealer was $15. It's a must-have, along with the clutch adjustment wrench.

 

[Roozter]

I found my local Bobcat dealer to be cheaper for the original factory manuals. The going price on eBay for the user manual was $30+ while the real thing from the dealer was $15. It's a must-have, along with the clutch adjustment wrench.

I second the Bobcat dealer. My Service Manual (2 inches thick) was $77.80 compared to $93.99 on Ebay.

 

[tima]

I did go to my local dealer and purchase both the service and parts manuals for about $85 dollars . What a surprise. Should be here in about a week on their normal factory order with no shipping charges . Can't wait to get started. Got a lot of projects to do.

 

[Hondaman900]

I did go to my local dealer and purchase both the service and parts manuals for about $85 dollars . What a surprise. Should be here in about a week on their normal factory order with no shipping charges . Can't wait to get started. Got a lot of projects to do.

You'll have a lot of fun being productive with your 610. Just be careful on grades and slopes and follow the operating precautions laid out in the manual. Our Bobcats have short wheelbases and are very tippy on slopes. Always keep your heaviest end (loaded bucket, or engine if the bucket is empty) to the upside of any hill your transversing. Enjoy!

 

[Kawime]

You'll have a lot of fun being productive with your 610. Just be careful on grades and slopes and follow the operating precautions laid out in the manual. Our Bobcats have short wheelbases and are very tippy on slopes. Always keep your heaviest end (loaded bucket, or engine if the bucket is empty) to the upside of any hill your transversing. Enjoy!

I also have a M610 that has a seized variable speed sheave, did you manage to get your variable speed to work yet? Does anybody know what usually is the problem with these when they sieze up? When I operate the lever there is no sign of the pump straining & the sheave does not move, I only have slow speed, any idea's where to start looking?

 

[tima]

I also have a M610 that has a seized variable speed sheave, did you manage to get your variable speed to work yet? Does anybody know what usually is the problem with these when they sieze up? When I operate the lever there is no sign of the pump straining & the sheave does not move, I only have slow speed, any idea's where to start looking?

Are you sure the sheave is actually frozen. See if you can get some slack in the drive belt by pulling up on it. This should make the driven pulley open up, then you can wedge a 2x4 between the loader side and the drive pulley and see if it will compress. When you move the speed control all the way forward does the engine show a little speed change as if you are getting hyd pressure to the sheave. If not you probably have something wrong in the spool valve. I rebuilt my sheave with a seal kit but still could not get it to close all the way at full throttle. When i received the service manual i found out that there was a closing and holding pressure adjustment on the spool valve. Made the adjustments and everything works great. By the way my sheave was not frozen , it just leaked like crazy and would not operate. There is a grease zerk on both sheaves and if you do not have a hyd problem maybe a little grease will do wonders. If you need to rebuild the hyd portion of the sheave it is pretty simple. The only problem with mine was it was severly pitted in the bore , but after about 2 hours of honing it was like brand new. In either case a service and parts manual is a neccesity. If i did not mention it before i did get mine from my local dealer and they were 1/2 of what the fellow on Ebay wants. What a surprize. After replacing several bearings,hyd lines,rebuilding tilt cylinder,bearings and seals on 1 rear drive axle and some other cobble-ups mine is almost like brand new. Still need to change all the hyd hoses though. No leaks but they are looking pretty ratty. I just can not stand to see a machine look like a peice of junk. I have used it to remove 5 stumps and grade the driveway a couple of times and i am very pleased. I think my propane vaporizer needs a little attention next. Wants to die after dropping from full speed load to an idle. Adjusted the main and idle mixtures but it did not make any difference. Need to check outlet pressure at the vaorizer. Anybody out there have any other suggestions???? Good luck and if i can help you out in any other way let me know. Tim Schuldies/Tim's Electric

 

[Hondaman900]

Are you sure the sheave is actually frozen. See if you can get some slack in the drive belt by pulling up on it. This should make the driven pulley open up, then you can wedge a 2x4 between the loader side and the drive pulley and see if it will compress. When you move the speed control all the way forward does the engine show a little speed change as if you are getting hyd pressure to the sheave. If not you probably have something wrong in the spool valve. I rebuilt my sheave with a seal kit but still could not get it to close all the way at full throttle. When i received the service manual i found out that there was a closing and holding pressure adjustment on the spool valve. Made the adjustments and everything works great. By the way my sheave was not frozen , it just leaked like crazy and would not operate. There is a grease zerk on both sheaves and if you do not have a hyd problem maybe a little grease will do wonders. If you need to rebuild the hyd portion of the sheave it is pretty simple. The only problem with mine was it was severly pitted in the bore , but after about 2 hours of honing it was like brand new. In either case a service and parts manual is a neccesity. If i did not mention it before i did get mine from my local dealer and they were 1/2 of what the fellow on Ebay wants. What a surprize. After replacing several bearings,hyd lines,rebuilding tilt cylinder,bearings and seals on 1 rear drive axle and some other cobble-ups mine is almost like brand new. Still need to change all the hyd hoses though. No leaks but they are looking pretty ratty. I just can not stand to see a machine look like a peice of junk. I have used it to remove 5 stumps and grade the driveway a couple of times and i am very pleased. I think my propane vaporizer needs a little attention next. Wants to die after dropping from full speed load to an idle. Adjusted the main and idle mixtures but it did not make any difference. Need to check outlet pressure at the vaorizer. Anybody out there have any other suggestions???? Good luck and if i can help you out in any other way let me know. Tim Schuldies/Tim's Electric

My operating levers are “snatchy”, especially on the right side. I have to pull back hard to get full engagement of reverse with the right hand drive, and then the lever/clutch “sticks” rather than returns to the central neutral position. I have to push it forward a little and it releases. This can cause some jerky movement, and when working on a slope, has led to some hairy moments.
I've adjusted the clutches, and can adjust the amount of travel of the lever from neutral to engagement, but this adjustment doesn't change or help the sticking. Apart from this issue, by M-600 runs and operates like a champ. Just cleared a Bobcat-wide road down my hillside property through thick brush, just using my chainsaw to fell trees and nip bushes, and then follow with the Bobcat to clear the debris and grade the road. Piece of cake in two afternoons, and a lot of fun.
Any ideas/suggestions on the sticky levers? I'd love to smooth out the operation.
Stephen