Newb Help Please

[OdieO]

Here is where I am. I picked up what I believe is a 610. I have not invested much thus far. I have a one-acre plot and wanted to use this for snow removal and some road grading. Remember that I have never owned or worked on these, and I am looking at it like a challenge/adventure. The 610 was running a few years ago. I immediately put a new battery in, changed all the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and fuel pump, and then somehow busted the carb while rebuilding it. So, a new carb is in place, and I can start the engine without any starting fluid. It does run; however, I am waiting for a throttle linkage as the new carb differs. When the engine is running, I can use the pedals to lift and tilt the bucket when I move either the right or left control to move forward. Nothing happens. There is a lever to my left that seems like a hydraulic one. I push it forward, and it feels like how a level feels when a hydraulic line is maxed out. When I release it, it falls back into place. I also noticed the belt is not spinning, no matter what I do. I turned it off and noticed I had a nice puddle of hydraulic fluid. It looks milky, and I plan to replace it once I get it moving. The fluid is coming from the left rear side of the bobcat. I do not have any manuls and would love if someone could give me some guidance and where to go from here. Thanks in advance- Much appreciated!

 

[Sapientoni]

I foolishly acquired a 610 with thoughts of a little fixing and selling. For starters, it had 80-90 gear oil in the drive system. Too thick to allow the clutches much driving force. While cleaning everything out and learning about the clutch/drive assemblies I found some needle bearings gone, worn hubs, etc. Special machinist skills repairing the hubs. The surprise was a 3/8" chain hook in the bottom of one side. Mangled by forcing by under a sprocket where there was no clearance. This was an obvious sabotage by someone in the past. There's no hole large enough for this to be in there if a side plate wasn't off. The Wisconsin runs well enough after some fuel pump replacement (electric bypass of the block pump), electrical corrections. Cross shaft coupling corrections, key not in the ways, but clamped down haphazardly and wobbling. A real bozo was working on this thing before me.
I suggest you start at the beginning by checking the oil type and level. There are oil passages feeding the spindles the drives spin on. You will learn a new skill and doing it right means not doing it again. Industrial suppliers may be a cheaper source of parts than "MELROE". Most industrial machines are assembled with off the shelf parts. Brake and clutch relining companies may be a source of cheap parts. The drive "coupling" for my Mustang 1700 is a large Ford clutch disc, without the friction discs. When mine failed I saw the part was familiar and went to the clutch reliner. He trotted out a new disc and I said "no, no, I don't need the friction, just the center, LOL! I did have to drill mounting holes for attaching it, but it was hundreds cheaper than the Owatonna part. Same thing for the CVT drive belt, measure, go industrial. If it fits, it fits, but doesn't hit.