Newb need info on JD 240 skid steer

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6Lstrokin

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Dec 18, 2009
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Hey we just acquired a 2001 John Deere 240 skid steer. We also like to change all the filters and fluids, etc. when we first get a piece of equipment. Called the dealer and ordered all the filters, got all the fluid necessary and everything. They told me that the engine oil capacity was 7.8 qts. and hydraulic capacity was 24 qts. changed the oil fine but when went to change the hydraulic, only like 8-10 qts. came out im guessing. So I assume that the 24 qts is only when the system is completely dry. So I'm wanting to know how much is used to change the hydraulic when only draining the resevior with all the cylinders all the way in and filter. TIA! Darin I just found out that it has 2 drain plugs? wheres the 2nd one? and appx how much fluid am i going to need to add since the 24 qts is when the system is totally dry..?
 

skidsteer.ca

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That sounds about right.
http://www.mediafire.com/?mnddzt0dmxn
4.1gals in the res 6 gals in the system.
The only way to drain the cylinders is to lower the boom with the engine off. Still you can never get all the oil short of complete tear down. I usually pump out what I can through the front couplers and then fill it up again. If its a contamination problem then go to more trouble but otherwise that's good enough.
I can't find anywhere in the manual where it shows draining the reservoir and the general maintenance section must be in the owners manual as there is no section in the service manual covering this.
Ken
 
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6Lstrokin

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That sounds about right.
http://www.mediafire.com/?mnddzt0dmxn
4.1gals in the res 6 gals in the system.
The only way to drain the cylinders is to lower the boom with the engine off. Still you can never get all the oil short of complete tear down. I usually pump out what I can through the front couplers and then fill it up again. If its a contamination problem then go to more trouble but otherwise that's good enough.
I can't find anywhere in the manual where it shows draining the reservoir and the general maintenance section must be in the owners manual as there is no section in the service manual covering this.
Ken
thanks for the reply! ya we have all the cylinders in as far as they will go. any idea where that 2nd drain plug is? was wondering if i needed to lift the cab to get to it or have to take off another dang bellypan. to my knowledge theres no contaminates, but we just like to completely service new equipment when we first get it. got both fuel filters changed, oil, oil filter, both air filters, hyd filter, and just need to drain all the rest of the fluid i can before adding the fresh. anything else that would be a good idea to do while its down? other than grease... and is there any hidden/forgotten grease fittings that people dont usually get when typically greasing? lastly, we got a set of rubber tracks with the dual wheels setup with the machine. Any hints to installing them? I know the air has to be completely down on the tires inside, but any hints/tricks? Jack up one side at a time...? Thanks again for all the help!
 
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6Lstrokin

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thanks for the reply! ya we have all the cylinders in as far as they will go. any idea where that 2nd drain plug is? was wondering if i needed to lift the cab to get to it or have to take off another dang bellypan. to my knowledge theres no contaminates, but we just like to completely service new equipment when we first get it. got both fuel filters changed, oil, oil filter, both air filters, hyd filter, and just need to drain all the rest of the fluid i can before adding the fresh. anything else that would be a good idea to do while its down? other than grease... and is there any hidden/forgotten grease fittings that people dont usually get when typically greasing? lastly, we got a set of rubber tracks with the dual wheels setup with the machine. Any hints to installing them? I know the air has to be completely down on the tires inside, but any hints/tricks? Jack up one side at a time...? Thanks again for all the help!
also it did not come with an owners manual...of course... dont see why people even take them out, most never look at them and end up losing...
 

skidsteer.ca

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thanks for the reply! ya we have all the cylinders in as far as they will go. any idea where that 2nd drain plug is? was wondering if i needed to lift the cab to get to it or have to take off another dang bellypan. to my knowledge theres no contaminates, but we just like to completely service new equipment when we first get it. got both fuel filters changed, oil, oil filter, both air filters, hyd filter, and just need to drain all the rest of the fluid i can before adding the fresh. anything else that would be a good idea to do while its down? other than grease... and is there any hidden/forgotten grease fittings that people dont usually get when typically greasing? lastly, we got a set of rubber tracks with the dual wheels setup with the machine. Any hints to installing them? I know the air has to be completely down on the tires inside, but any hints/tricks? Jack up one side at a time...? Thanks again for all the help!
Believe most of the grease fittings are obvious ones but would not hurt to lift the cab and look around in there. never heard od 2 drain plugs for the hydraulics on anything. does the reservoir have 2 low points on it that would require a second plug?
Also don't forget to check your chain case/final drives oil.
As for the rubber tracks never tried those, but bet they are a bear to install. Though godyear had some special jack that went between the tires to tension up the tracks b4 you tried to put the wheels on the studs. Final step was to air them up. Good luck.
Have a 490 pg JD mechanics service manual in pdf for this if your interested.
ken
 
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6Lstrokin

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Believe most of the grease fittings are obvious ones but would not hurt to lift the cab and look around in there. never heard od 2 drain plugs for the hydraulics on anything. does the reservoir have 2 low points on it that would require a second plug?
Also don't forget to check your chain case/final drives oil.
As for the rubber tracks never tried those, but bet they are a bear to install. Though godyear had some special jack that went between the tires to tension up the tracks b4 you tried to put the wheels on the studs. Final step was to air them up. Good luck.
Have a 490 pg JD mechanics service manual in pdf for this if your interested.
ken
I had the cab up yesterday and it doesnt seem like a very good design... the throttle and the hand controls are in the way when you lift it up and put it down! almost a 2 person deal.. anything special your supposed to do on that?
 

jklingel

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I had the cab up yesterday and it doesnt seem like a very good design... the throttle and the hand controls are in the way when you lift it up and put it down! almost a 2 person deal.. anything special your supposed to do on that?
The cab is a minor PITA, but I was always able to wiggle things by myself and get the cab up/down. It is really easier than it looks. There are 9 grease fittings on each side; all obvious. j
 
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6Lstrokin

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The cab is a minor PITA, but I was always able to wiggle things by myself and get the cab up/down. It is really easier than it looks. There are 9 grease fittings on each side; all obvious. j
we finally got the tracks on... 2nd side was a little easier.. haha we ended up of coarse jacking one side up at a time, putting the rear on first, then getting chain and binders hooked to the bucket to pull the front on, used a pitman arm puller to turn the hub to get the studs lined up and a pry bar to lift up and pop in place! also, the chain that is supposed to come off.... you take off the inspection cover between the front and rear axles and take the chain going to the front axle off... because supposedly it puts too much strain when turning and such on the hydraulic pump...? that was actually pretty much the easy part, biggest pain was scraping all the old silicone off! I do have one more question now though.... when you push both handles all the way forward, it pulls to the passenger side some..... also when sitting at an idle and the parking break off it tries to roll forward some.. is all this just in an adjustment in a linkage somewhere?
 

skidsteer.ca

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we finally got the tracks on... 2nd side was a little easier.. haha we ended up of coarse jacking one side up at a time, putting the rear on first, then getting chain and binders hooked to the bucket to pull the front on, used a pitman arm puller to turn the hub to get the studs lined up and a pry bar to lift up and pop in place! also, the chain that is supposed to come off.... you take off the inspection cover between the front and rear axles and take the chain going to the front axle off... because supposedly it puts too much strain when turning and such on the hydraulic pump...? that was actually pretty much the easy part, biggest pain was scraping all the old silicone off! I do have one more question now though.... when you push both handles all the way forward, it pulls to the passenger side some..... also when sitting at an idle and the parking break off it tries to roll forward some.. is all this just in an adjustment in a linkage somewhere?
"when you push both handles all the way forward, it pulls to the passenger side some."
This is common, Are the tires the same diameter and inflated to equal pressure. Even if they are it may still drift some. Can also be a adjustment in the hydrostats. Some models even have a adjustment to limit the max speed of the fast side in case the slower side can't be adjusted to keep up. These adjustments are a matter of making sure both hydrastats are being fully opened by the steering levers.
".... also when sitting at an idle and the parking break off it tries to roll forward some.. is all this just in an adjustment in a linkage somewhere?"
Also very common. Search and read up on "neutral adjustments" Principles will be similar but the way each manufacturer accomplishes this varies.
Ken
 
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6Lstrokin

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"when you push both handles all the way forward, it pulls to the passenger side some."
This is common, Are the tires the same diameter and inflated to equal pressure. Even if they are it may still drift some. Can also be a adjustment in the hydrostats. Some models even have a adjustment to limit the max speed of the fast side in case the slower side can't be adjusted to keep up. These adjustments are a matter of making sure both hydrastats are being fully opened by the steering levers.
".... also when sitting at an idle and the parking break off it tries to roll forward some.. is all this just in an adjustment in a linkage somewhere?"
Also very common. Search and read up on "neutral adjustments" Principles will be similar but the way each manufacturer accomplishes this varies.
Ken
ya, i was kindof thinking the same on the tires at first, but after we put the tracks on, same deal.. and it uses a different set of wheels/tires and they are all the same.. how do you go about doing the adjustments?
 

skidsteer.ca

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ya, i was kindof thinking the same on the tires at first, but after we put the tracks on, same deal.. and it uses a different set of wheels/tires and they are all the same.. how do you go about doing the adjustments?
There are adjustment for both problems.
Here is the info on it
Ken
 
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6Lstrokin

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Hey man, thanks for all your help and info!! I really appreciate it!!
i knew there was one other thing i was curious about too.....when you idle it up almost all the way its got a awful sounding squeaking... like a belt or pulley. i sprayed some belt conditioner on it and still doing it so im guessing a loose pulley or something..?
 

skidsteer.ca

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i knew there was one other thing i was curious about too.....when you idle it up almost all the way its got a awful sounding squeaking... like a belt or pulley. i sprayed some belt conditioner on it and still doing it so im guessing a loose pulley or something..?
Hard to say there, test run it with the belt off for a minute and see if it shuts up. I know those engines had quite a bit of vibration (from my experience with a 250), it only does it at that engine speed?
Ken
 
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6Lstrokin

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Hard to say there, test run it with the belt off for a minute and see if it shuts up. I know those engines had quite a bit of vibration (from my experience with a 250), it only does it at that engine speed?
Ken
ya it starts about 3/4 throttle on up to wot..
 

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