New Tensioner & Belt won't set to 3-oclock - 751 F-series

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Erikwp

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Sep 13, 2012
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OK, so I am working on a friends Bobcat, and we have a new drive belt and a new tensioner. When we pry the tensioner down to set the tension indicator to the 3-0clock position, the pointer does not move. It appears to us that the belt is too big, and not allowing enough movement of the tensioner (downward), because by the time the belt gets tight, the slide on the tensioner is bottomed out. We have triple checked the belt with Bobcat dealer, and they maintain it is the correct belt. Has anyone had this happen, we are stumped.
 

mikeprince

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Aug 26, 2012
Messages
10
I'm up against the EXACT same problem right now on my (new to me) 753F. I downloaded the service manual and there's a note that if the pointer does not move, to use a screwdriver to help get it moving. The pointer is a very weak piece of metal and now it makes sense that I've read about other people having broken pointers. If you have the old tensioner, don't throw it out. Keep it (or pull it apart) to keep the old pointer in your parts box in case this ever happens to you. Another idea someone posted was to pre-load the spring when it's out of the engine and pop a zip-tie big end in between the pin that limits the travel that can be seen from the "back" of the idler assembly backing plate. I'm heading home right now to give those ideas a try and will report back the results.
 

Bobcatdan

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May 3, 2012
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I'm up against the EXACT same problem right now on my (new to me) 753F. I downloaded the service manual and there's a note that if the pointer does not move, to use a screwdriver to help get it moving. The pointer is a very weak piece of metal and now it makes sense that I've read about other people having broken pointers. If you have the old tensioner, don't throw it out. Keep it (or pull it apart) to keep the old pointer in your parts box in case this ever happens to you. Another idea someone posted was to pre-load the spring when it's out of the engine and pop a zip-tie big end in between the pin that limits the travel that can be seen from the "back" of the idler assembly backing plate. I'm heading home right now to give those ideas a try and will report back the results.
The pointer is not needed for setting. Pry the tensioner til to bottoms out and let up up slightly.
 
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Erikwp

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Sep 13, 2012
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The pointer is not needed for setting. Pry the tensioner til to bottoms out and let up up slightly.
I can get the belt tight, but then the tensioner is all the way down. Seems like there should be room for some future adjustment when using a new belt and tensioner.
 

mikeprince

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Joined
Aug 26, 2012
Messages
10
I can get the belt tight, but then the tensioner is all the way down. Seems like there should be room for some future adjustment when using a new belt and tensioner.
The problem, as referenced in the service manual, is that when the tensioner is in the unloaded position the pry-bar pressure might not cause the cam to tension the spring and the pointer stays "stuck" in the untensioned/near vertical orientation. I had applied, with a 4 foot pry bar in excess of 75 pounds of pressure with no movement of the pointer. Solution: With the tensioner assembly off the bobcat, turn it over to look at the backside/bracket. Use a screw driver to turn the cam a little bit, which moves the pin in the slot enough to insert the fat head of a zip tie. Now the pin won't be able to fully reset. Install the tensioner, and feed the tail of the zip tie down and behind the drive belt. Now when you apply pressure with the pry-bar the pointer will move easily with 10-20 pounds of pressure on a three foot+ prey-bar. Make sure to remove the zip tie before operating.
 
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Erikwp

Member
Joined
Sep 13, 2012
Messages
5
The problem, as referenced in the service manual, is that when the tensioner is in the unloaded position the pry-bar pressure might not cause the cam to tension the spring and the pointer stays "stuck" in the untensioned/near vertical orientation. I had applied, with a 4 foot pry bar in excess of 75 pounds of pressure with no movement of the pointer. Solution: With the tensioner assembly off the bobcat, turn it over to look at the backside/bracket. Use a screw driver to turn the cam a little bit, which moves the pin in the slot enough to insert the fat head of a zip tie. Now the pin won't be able to fully reset. Install the tensioner, and feed the tail of the zip tie down and behind the drive belt. Now when you apply pressure with the pry-bar the pointer will move easily with 10-20 pounds of pressure on a three foot+ prey-bar. Make sure to remove the zip tie before operating.
Thanks for the input, I will be sure to try this method this afternoon. I am still wondering if the tensioner should be all the way down with a new belt. Once I get the belt tight, the tensioner is as far down as it will go.
 

Bobcatdan

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May 3, 2012
Messages
1,684
Thanks for the input, I will be sure to try this method this afternoon. I am still wondering if the tensioner should be all the way down with a new belt. Once I get the belt tight, the tensioner is as far down as it will go.
There looks to be at least three different belts for a 751 depending on serial number and if it is an early one converted to a kubota, that could make it fun getting the right belt.
 
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Erikwp

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Sep 13, 2012
Messages
5
There looks to be at least three different belts for a 751 depending on serial number and if it is an early one converted to a kubota, that could make it fun getting the right belt.
Bobcatdan you are the man. That zip-tie trick worked like a charm. Thank You. The 751 is an F-series, not sure of the year, but is does have a Kubota engine. Even though I did get the belt tight, and the pointer near the 3-0clock position, the tensioner is just about maxed out as far as being able to go down any further. Still seems like the belt is a little long. Any ideas on finding the Kubota belt??
 
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Erikwp

Member
Joined
Sep 13, 2012
Messages
5
The problem, as referenced in the service manual, is that when the tensioner is in the unloaded position the pry-bar pressure might not cause the cam to tension the spring and the pointer stays "stuck" in the untensioned/near vertical orientation. I had applied, with a 4 foot pry bar in excess of 75 pounds of pressure with no movement of the pointer. Solution: With the tensioner assembly off the bobcat, turn it over to look at the backside/bracket. Use a screw driver to turn the cam a little bit, which moves the pin in the slot enough to insert the fat head of a zip tie. Now the pin won't be able to fully reset. Install the tensioner, and feed the tail of the zip tie down and behind the drive belt. Now when you apply pressure with the pry-bar the pointer will move easily with 10-20 pounds of pressure on a three foot+ prey-bar. Make sure to remove the zip tie before operating.
Thank You Mike! Zip-tie worked like a charm. Originally I though this came from Bobcatdan, but I see that you posted it. Thanks again, been wrestling with this thing for weeks.
 

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