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They are still available but they are around $1,000 on e-bay. Its rare to get them second hand without cracks. They get hot and they simply crack. You can some times be VERY lucky and get an old engine with a head that is still ok, i have had the luck of getting one before.
Small cracks can be repaired by a machine shop, i actually want to give pining a head a go one day, i have a few cracked 2203 and 1702 heads here that i would like to have a fiddle with.
Good luck with your search.
Small cracks can be repaired by a machine shop, i actually want to give pining a head a go one day, i have a few cracked 2203 and 1702 heads here that i would like to have a fiddle with.
Good luck with your search.
Hi Tazza thank you for replying. I have a chance to purchase a V-1902 Kubota engine, and the only difference that I know of is that it is a 40 horse. Do you know if the 1902 will bolt in in place of the 1702? I have looked at it, and it looks identical except on the injector pump it has a hydraulic pump on the end of it. I think that I might be able to remove it and block it off, but I am not sure. Any suggestions for me? Thanks alot! ~Dick
You sure its a hydraulic pump? if anything it may be a lift pump.
The 1902 will work, the only difference *may* be the sump. If its an issue you can swap sumps over. The newer engines run a pressed metal sump and the one your machine needs is the cast one as its used as a mounting point. Thats my only concern. I was told by my dealer not to go higher than a 1.9 litre as it can over heat the pumps with the extra power as the engine won't bog down when under load so you know its straining. If the sump is an issue you can do what i did and weld 2 pieces of flat to the rear mount so you bolt to the engine block instead of the sump.
I believe these series engines are all the same physical size and mount, they just have different bore and stroke sizes. Even a V2203 i have here looks almost identical to the V1702, just VERY minor changes to the front alloy housing.
Do you know how many hours it has done? you don't want to buy another engine to find its not suitable either.
I was told the motor has 800 hours on it. They were going to use it for a post hole digger. They told me that it has a hydraulic pump on the injector pump. It looks like a hydraulic pump to me...Are you talking about the oil sump pump? Do I need to change over the oil pan and sump pump? I am not sure what the sump is. I can get this motor for $1,000 do you think this is a good deal? This is my first bobcat..I am mechanically inclined, I just don't know all there is to know about bobcats. How much of a job is it to pull the motor? Anything special that I need to know/do? Do I have to pull the hydraulic pump off the back of the motor in order to pull the motor? Thanks for your help! Dick
What machine is this out of, a 743/743B?
The oil pump will be internal of the engine, the sump pan is the only thing that *may* need to be changed not the pickup or pump. Removing the engine is easy, not hard to disconnect the main pumps, its simply a spline connection (if its a 743).
Let me know and i can give you pictures and instructions.
Any problems e-mail me taz38sup at yahoo.com.au replace the at with @ of course.
I can even give you some piccies of what i am talking about sumps, i have both here that i can show you.
I am in the process of pulling the motor out...I have removed the radiator and the hydraulic cooler. If I take the four main motor mount bolts out, will it pull straight out or do I have to unhook the drive shaft? Is it a spline yolk deal? I was told that a V-1902 is a direct replacement for the 1702 (a factory rep told me this). I really appreciate any input you might have for me! Thanks....Dick
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The drive shaft should just slide apart at the spline
. Be sure to inspect or replace the ujoints while is out. Also a good time to change some hard to access hoses and do the spool seals on th hyd valve
Ken
Like Ken said, it will pull out and check the Uni-joints and grease them!.
You didn't need to pull the Radiator and oil cooler, just remove the 4 bolts at the base and connecting hoses/wires etc. The engine will then slide backwards. I found this very easy by attaching a chain to the 2 lifting points on the head and using a hoist to lift it slightly then a pry bar to pull it back. Putting it back in is a little harder as you need to line up the drive splines but its still not too bad.
When re-installing i would advise you add grease to the spline in the pump, this will ensure its easy to slide back on and will also prevent it rusting and possibly cause it to bind on the engine end of the coupling.
Any probs or questions just yell, i have done this a few times (too many times actually).
