My Bobcat 751 with Peugeot Engine Timing belt and water pump swap

[shawn macananny]

I'm going to try to attach pictures, I'm not sure if it will work. I did some reading and i do have a bobcat manual for it but i would say on a scale of 1-10, 1 being changing your oil, 10 being a Duramax head gasket swap I'd rate it about a 3. It was incredibly easy. Including the time i spent cleaning every thing i took off, flushing the coolant system, degreasing the engine it took me less than 3 hours. I got the kit from Ebay UK fo a D9B XUD9 (that's what my engine tag said) It was $230 shipped or belt, tensioner, idler, water pump, and gasket. It got here in 4 business days too
Drain coolant (if youre swapping the water pump)
Remove battery, unbolt relay cluster, air box and intake hoses
pull on fan belt to relieve tension and slide off crank, loosen alternator and remove alternator cover
use a 22mm socket and ratchet to rotate engine CLOCKWISE
pin crank with 8mm bolt (same size as what holds cam and injection pump just not threaded)
Remove crank balancer with flywheel pinned
remove 3 timing covers (The top cover has an 11mm bolt hidden facing the front behind the engine feel around for it)
remove muffler bracket (atleast enough that you can get belt out or remove bracket entirely if youre replacing idler)
Take 3 8mm bolts, put 2 in the injection pump gear, and 1 longer one in the cam (I tightened the cam one a little, injection pump i left hand tight)
loosen 10mm nut, and bolt on tensioner, then use 3/8" extension and ratchet to move tensioner back to release belt
If you are replacing tensioner then just remove the bolt and nut. just pry it off with screw driver, its not under much tension once tension is off
To put the new one on just hold cup and spring in with finger and push new tensioner on over the stud and tap it on, it wont hurt the threads
If you are replacing the idler remove spring tensioner bracket to get behind to a bolt on the idler
Pull tensioner all the way against the spring an tighten top bolt to hold out of way of belt
If you are replacing the water pump unbolt the 5 bolts, pull it out and clean gasket surface, bolt new one in
To put the new belt on start with the crank, pull it tight, then go around the idler, then the injection pump, then the cam, then the crank, then the water pump.
While holding the belt on there tight, loosen the tensioner top bolt and it will snap into place holding it.
Remove all place holding bolts and rotate engine CLOCKWISE 2 times (i rotated 10)
Put the holding bolts back in and make sure they still line up (one may be a tiny bit off but you should be able to still get a bolt in it) then take them back out
Put the timing covers, balancer, bracket and belts back on.
I started up mine without the air box assemble to make sure there were no coolant leaks. I also flushed then filled the coolant system at this point
I let engine idle for 5 minutes, then ran mid range for 5, then full throttle for 10 minuntes before i drove it anywhere
I restarted it a half dozen times to make sure no teeth jumped
I used it under heavy use for an hour after, no leaks, restarted it a few more times. Super easy hours, easy for one person to do, and only cost $230. My Kubota F2400 mowers water pump alone was $200 for its D115.
anyway, thats my write up, how i did it anyway it could be done in less than 2 hours easily i just took my time and cleaned everything while i had it apart. My engine has definitely had the head off at some point as i see copper heagasket spray and my old belt looked pretty new but i replaced it anyway. Notice the new belt has a groove cut into the tooth. Maybe its to allow to safely pass through the gear teeth?

 

[shawn macananny]

 

[7LBSSMALLIE]

good job but why. its a pukeo. a piggy bank so to speak, cant we close the book on these and let them rest in peace. (burn the books and pretend it never happened)

 

[shawn macananny]

good job but why. its a pukeo. a piggy bank so to speak, cant we close the book on these and let them rest in peace. (burn the books and pretend it never happened)

Ive had no issues with mine, runs great, plenty of power, starts great, and parts are 1/3 the cost of Kubota parts. I have found it very easy to work on and cant say anything bad about the engine. Ive had more problems with my Kubota D1105 than this Peugeot. Parts are very plentiful and cheap on Ebay UK too. I will keep it until it dies and ill be sure to let you know when it happens.

 

[SkidRoe]

Ive had no issues with mine, runs great, plenty of power, starts great, and parts are 1/3 the cost of Kubota parts. I have found it very easy to work on and cant say anything bad about the engine. Ive had more problems with my Kubota D1105 than this Peugeot. Parts are very plentiful and cheap on Ebay UK too. I will keep it until it dies and ill be sure to let you know when it happens.

Good job, Shawn. Hopefully, you will inspire some other 751 owners to take on this job and save their motors from a sudden, painful death.

 

[mahans7]

Good job, Shawn. Hopefully, you will inspire some other 751 owners to take on this job and save their motors from a sudden, painful death.

Shawn, thanks for the pictures and explanation. I'll be changing my timing belt out on my 743 at some point too. It looks like its doable now. Thanks again.

 

[SkidRoe]

Shawn, thanks for the pictures and explanation. I'll be changing my timing belt out on my 743 at some point too. It looks like its doable now. Thanks again.

I have some good news for you, mahans, your 743 does not have a timing belt. With BC, these are only typically found on Pugeot and Deutz engines, not Kubotas

 

[Tazza]

I have some good news for you, mahans, your 743 does not have a timing belt. With BC, these are only typically found on Pugeot and Deutz engines, not Kubotas

Nice write up indeed.
Kubotas run timing gears, no belt to worry about.
Long live the pug engine they are very nice, but if anything major breaks, it's expensive to repair. Deal with that IF it ever happens, i'm sure most engines live a happy un-eventful life and die of natural causes. There are always a few that don't though, those are the ones we hear about.

 

[mahans7]

Nice write up indeed.
Kubotas run timing gears, no belt to worry about.
Long live the pug engine they are very nice, but if anything major breaks, it's expensive to repair. Deal with that IF it ever happens, i'm sure most engines live a happy un-eventful life and die of natural causes. There are always a few that don't though, those are the ones we hear about.

SR, that is indeed good news! Now I just have to figure out how to change the timing belt in my nephew and sons girlfriends Honda Accord. Yippee!

 

[Mikefromcny]

SR, that is indeed good news! Now I just have to figure out how to change the timing belt in my nephew and sons girlfriends Honda Accord. Yippee!

 

[Mikefromcny]

What year accord? I have done a half a dozen on 90's accords and civics. Not too bad and change the water pump while your in there. A decent manual will walk you though it. My family has probably had 10 of them, Sold a 92' 5 speed with 247k still running good a couple years ago and my 91' accord auto with 246k over the summer, was starting to get tired.

 

[mahans7]

What year accord? I have done a half a dozen on 90's accords and civics. Not too bad and change the water pump while your in there. A decent manual will walk you though it. My family has probably had 10 of them, Sold a 92' 5 speed with 247k still running good a couple years ago and my 91' accord auto with 246k over the summer, was starting to get tired.

Mike, the accords are 2000 and 2002 and are both 20-25K miles overdue for their timing belt changes.<><>Your 743 paint job post got me out of the house today after work after dark and I degreased/pressured washed my 743 engine and did my initial oil change. I still can't believe how nice your paint job looks! And you painted it outside(which is probably what I'll do)? Ed

 

[Mikefromcny]

Mike, the accords are 2000 and 2002 and are both 20-25K miles overdue for their timing belt changes.<><>Your 743 paint job post got me out of the house today after work after dark and I degreased/pressured washed my 743 engine and did my initial oil change. I still can't believe how nice your paint job looks! And you painted it outside(which is probably what I'll do)? Ed

I changed a timing belt on a '98 civic, was easier then the older accords, but ymmv. Not sure if those cars are considered an interference engine or not, but something to keep in mind. Every last bit of it was painted outside, despite wind, rain and bugs lol. My garage is packed full of stuff and I didnt want to get paint dust all over everything.

 

[shawn macananny]

I changed a timing belt on a '98 civic, was easier then the older accords, but ymmv. Not sure if those cars are considered an interference engine or not, but something to keep in mind. Every last bit of it was painted outside, despite wind, rain and bugs lol. My garage is packed full of stuff and I didnt want to get paint dust all over everything.

DOHC - non interference (one cam for exhaust one for intake) cams will be spun to a neutral degree where no valves are opened provided it doesnt happen at high RPMs
SOHC, OHV - interference engines always will have atleast one intake and exhaust valve open to be bent regardless of engine position

 

[mahans7]

DOHC - non interference (one cam for exhaust one for intake) cams will be spun to a neutral degree where no valves are opened provided it doesnt happen at high RPMs
SOHC, OHV - interference engines always will have atleast one intake and exhaust valve open to be bent regardless of engine position

Thanks for the info on cams/timing belts. I'm learning something new every day here. <><>Mike, maybe sell the stuff in the garage and keep the 743. Ed

 

[shawn macananny]

Thanks for the info on cams/timing belts. I'm learning something new every day here. <><>Mike, maybe sell the stuff in the garage and keep the 743. Ed

I just thought I'd follow up since i had some trouble with mine this winter. Everything had been running great in the colder weather. It's only been about 80 hours since i changed the timing belt and water pump. I would let glow plugs warm up then crank it for 10 seconds and it would fire right up. The other day it was 20 or so and i just went to start it, it wanted to start but then was just puffing. I waited a while cycled the glow plugs 2 times puffed a little wouldnt start. I decided To replace the battery cables that were 4 gauge with 2 gauge since i felt them getting warm. Started puffing ran for maybe 5 seconds (it was now 30 or so out), then died. Could not not matter what get it to start. I do not use starting fluid, i dont feed any diesel should use it and it's very dangerous with the glow plugs. I decided to crack all the injector line to make sure they were all getting fuel and they were. Drained the fuel filter, primed hte bulb. I still could not get it to start. I installed a lower radiator hose heater thinking maybe the extra warmth would help it since it is a peugeot with almost 2700 hours on it and maybe the diesel fuel what didnt ignite was hindering the rings form sealing since it hadnt started and heated for over a week now. The heater didnt work. I decided to start adjusting the injeciton pump. all the way from 1/4" to 1/4" from starting point in either direction. I found with the pump turned 1/4" counter clockwise i almost had it started, it would crank for 10 seconds, catch, then fire for 30 seconds at just above idle then die. It's now about 45 degrees today (this has all happened over a few days with battery charges in between) I finally decided to check the timing belt. Even though it was new. I pinned the flywheel then took the covers off. The injection pump and camshaft were ALMOST 90* OUT FROM WHERE THEY SHOULD HAVE BEEN! I couldnt believe it! It was actually require some finesse of the crank and cam both unpinned, to get them to line back up again because the valve kepts getting in the way. I got it all lined back up, and actually applied some force to the tensioner before i tightened it up. I cranked it for about 5 seconds and it fired right up. Smoked like hell for about 5 minutes but cleared right up. Idled fine, starts up 2nd roatation after shut down. I let it run for 30 minutes and all seems to be fine. It's a miracle no valves got bent considering how much it was off and how hard it was for me to get it lines back up again. I am pretty concenered about the timing belt jumping again though. I am not sure why it jumped. It was tight when i loosened the tensioner. One thing i did noticed was a slight whining noise now either from the water pump or the hydraulic pump. I am leaning towards the water pump, more of a noise from the timing belt on it. It spun freely when i cranked it with a ratchet, though that may not be the best indicator. I didnt really think to check it when i hard it apart. Maybe i tightened the belt up too much. There is 50% glycol in the system so i know its not frozen or anything. I never noticed the whine before i had it apart though. I guess i will just keep running it and see what happens. Maybe the alternator was whining since i drained the battery starting it so much today. I dunno. I'm just glad it didnt bend any valves. I cant believe how close it came to running with it being so far off. I am guessing the crank slipped a few teeth somehow since the injection pump and cam were the same amount out.

 

[shawn macananny]

Thanks for the info on cams/timing belts. I'm learning something new every day here. <><>Mike, maybe sell the stuff in the garage and keep the 743. Ed

I just thought I'd follow up since i had some trouble with mine this winter. Everything had been running great in the colder weather. It's only been about 80 hours since i changed the timing belt and water pump. I would let glow plugs warm up then crank it for 10 seconds and it would fire right up. The other day it was 20 or so and i just went to start it, it wanted to start but then was just puffing. I waited a while cycled the glow plugs 2 times puffed a little wouldnt start. I decided To replace the battery cables that were 4 gauge with 2 gauge since i felt them getting warm. Started puffing ran for maybe 5 seconds (it was now 30 or so out), then died. Could not not matter what get it to start.
I do not use starting fluid, i dont feed any diesel should use it and it's very dangerous with the glow plugs. I decided to crack all the injector line to make sure they were all getting fuel and they were. Drained the fuel filter, primed hte bulb. I still could not get it to start. I installed a lower radiator hose heater thinking maybe the extra warmth would help it since it is a peugeot with almost 2700 hours on it and maybe the diesel fuel what didnt ignite was hindering the rings form sealing since it hadnt started and heated for over a week now. The heater didnt work.
I decided to start adjusting the injeciton pump. all the way from 1/4" to 1/4" from starting point in either direction. I found with the pump turned 1/4" counter clockwise i almost had it started, it would crank for 10 seconds, catch, then fire for 30 seconds at just above idle then die. It's now about 45 degrees today (this has all happened over a few days with battery charges in between)
I finally decided to check the timing belt. Even though it was new. I pinned the flywheel then took the covers off. The injection pump and camshaft were ALMOST 90* OUT FROM WHERE THEY SHOULD HAVE BEEN! I couldnt believe it! It was actually require some finesse of the crank and cam both unpinned, to get them to line back up again because the valve kepts getting in the way. I got it all lined back up, and actually applied some force to the tensioner before i tightened it up.
I cranked it for about 5 seconds and it fired right up. Smoked like hell for about 5 minutes but cleared right up. Idled fine, starts up 2nd roatation after shut down. I let it run for 30 minutes and all seems to be fine. It's a miracle no valves got bent considering how much it was off and how hard it was for me to get it lines back up again. I am pretty concenered about the timing belt jumping again though. I am not sure why it jumped. It was tight when i loosened the tensioner.
One thing i did noticed was a slight whining noise now either from the water pump or the hydraulic pump. I am leaning towards the water pump, more of a noise from the timing belt on it. It spun freely when i cranked it with a ratchet, though that may not be the best indicator. I didnt really think to check it when i hard it apart. Maybe i tightened the belt up too much. There is 50% glycol in the system so i know its not frozen or anything. I never noticed the whine before i had it apart though. I guess i will just keep running it and see what happens. Maybe the alternator was whining since i drained the battery starting it so much today. I dunno. I'm just glad it didnt bend any valves. I cant believe how close it came to running with it being so far off. I am guessing the crank slipped a few teeth somehow since the injection pump and cam were the same amount out.

 

[Tazza]

I just thought I'd follow up since i had some trouble with mine this winter. Everything had been running great in the colder weather. It's only been about 80 hours since i changed the timing belt and water pump. I would let glow plugs warm up then crank it for 10 seconds and it would fire right up. The other day it was 20 or so and i just went to start it, it wanted to start but then was just puffing. I waited a while cycled the glow plugs 2 times puffed a little wouldnt start. I decided To replace the battery cables that were 4 gauge with 2 gauge since i felt them getting warm. Started puffing ran for maybe 5 seconds (it was now 30 or so out), then died. Could not not matter what get it to start.
I do not use starting fluid, i dont feed any diesel should use it and it's very dangerous with the glow plugs. I decided to crack all the injector line to make sure they were all getting fuel and they were. Drained the fuel filter, primed hte bulb. I still could not get it to start. I installed a lower radiator hose heater thinking maybe the extra warmth would help it since it is a peugeot with almost 2700 hours on it and maybe the diesel fuel what didnt ignite was hindering the rings form sealing since it hadnt started and heated for over a week now. The heater didnt work.
I decided to start adjusting the injeciton pump. all the way from 1/4" to 1/4" from starting point in either direction. I found with the pump turned 1/4" counter clockwise i almost had it started, it would crank for 10 seconds, catch, then fire for 30 seconds at just above idle then die. It's now about 45 degrees today (this has all happened over a few days with battery charges in between)
I finally decided to check the timing belt. Even though it was new. I pinned the flywheel then took the covers off. The injection pump and camshaft were ALMOST 90* OUT FROM WHERE THEY SHOULD HAVE BEEN! I couldnt believe it! It was actually require some finesse of the crank and cam both unpinned, to get them to line back up again because the valve kepts getting in the way. I got it all lined back up, and actually applied some force to the tensioner before i tightened it up.
I cranked it for about 5 seconds and it fired right up. Smoked like hell for about 5 minutes but cleared right up. Idled fine, starts up 2nd roatation after shut down. I let it run for 30 minutes and all seems to be fine. It's a miracle no valves got bent considering how much it was off and how hard it was for me to get it lines back up again. I am pretty concenered about the timing belt jumping again though. I am not sure why it jumped. It was tight when i loosened the tensioner.
One thing i did noticed was a slight whining noise now either from the water pump or the hydraulic pump. I am leaning towards the water pump, more of a noise from the timing belt on it. It spun freely when i cranked it with a ratchet, though that may not be the best indicator. I didnt really think to check it when i hard it apart. Maybe i tightened the belt up too much. There is 50% glycol in the system so i know its not frozen or anything. I never noticed the whine before i had it apart though. I guess i will just keep running it and see what happens. Maybe the alternator was whining since i drained the battery starting it so much today. I dunno. I'm just glad it didnt bend any valves. I cant believe how close it came to running with it being so far off. I am guessing the crank slipped a few teeth somehow since the injection pump and cam were the same amount out.

As you said, everything was tight..... It shouldn't be able to skip any teeth.
That is very strange indeed. What was out? the injector pump vs the crank/cam? or everything was off eachother? That may be why you didn't bend anything, if the crank and cams were in alignment the pistons wouldn't kiss the valves.
Lets hope it doesn't happen again!
Thw whine could be the alternator, but i'd keep an eye on the water pump, just in case. Still, it has so few hours up, it shouldn't fail for a LONG time.

 

[shawn macananny]

As you said, everything was tight..... It shouldn't be able to skip any teeth.
That is very strange indeed. What was out? the injector pump vs the crank/cam? or everything was off eachother? That may be why you didn't bend anything, if the crank and cams were in alignment the pistons wouldn't kiss the valves.
Lets hope it doesn't happen again!
Thw whine could be the alternator, but i'd keep an eye on the water pump, just in case. Still, it has so few hours up, it shouldn't fail for a LONG time.

After fully charging the battery the whine is still there, it goes away with high rpm it seems, I ran it for maybe 30 minutes yesterday so get hydraulics warm, but i dont think it's them it never did that before i tightened down the timing belt. Maybe i made it too tight. Or maybe its coming from the fam pulley.
Here is a vide of the noise
http://youtu.be/FnQ5i9MTGtA