That area under the hydraulic valve is always bad…..I've done a couple that I literally thought I was going to compromise the fuel tank while cleaning it. Did you go to clean metal before applying the galvanized coat?
I went at it with a wire wheel on an angle grinder, then phosphoric acid, then a high pressure spray, before applying a good thick coat of cold galv. And it'll get 3 or 4 of coats of enamel in those spots. Its not perfect but I don't think it will be a problem anymore. (At least not in my lifetime). This Bobcat won't have to endure the conditions it once did.
Did you use the spray or brush on? Is that better then the "Bondo" type products?
Or ….. how about the POR-15
I've never seen POR-15 over here, although it may be available. And Bondo is not a name I'm familiar with either.
Alchemysa, would you be able to share who reconditioned your axle? Any idea if they'd like to do another?
eyebrowski, I reconditioned them myself apart from getting the axles lathed to take the 50mm stainless steel tube sleeves.
I just wanted to say thank you for the thread post. It is really nice to see all the good pictures along with the explanations and details. My 742B is in decent shape but one of these days I still need to tackle some hydraulic leaks and I know that the help from this forum will make it easier. John
Wings5j... thank you for the comments. The thread is lot more interesting and makes more sense now that photobucket have restored the pics.
I'm early in the process of replacing the left front axle seal. I have the hub partially pulled out (using a puller set-up), so that the shaft is out of the inner bearing, and I have the big 2 inch nut off. However, I haven't yet been able to get the shaft out of the sprocket. It seems stuck and I don't want to damage the sprocket of chain with it banging around inside as I try to get it out the rest of the way. I could use any suggestions or advice about this step. Relatedly, will it be this hard to get it all back in? Thanks.
IGNORE MY PREVIOUS POST. I got it out with a little more pulling.
Finally putting stuff back together. What should I be torquing the inner axle nuts too?
If you mean the big nut around the axle, I have no real idea. I didnt have a tool that could measure the torque of that thing anyway. I just did up till it I thought it was comfortably tight.
I'm asking about the castle nut on the inside end of the axle. I am concerned about putting to much load on the bearings. I think I am good on the big nut since that bottoms out on the axle.
Actually… the large nut (axle sprocket nut) needs 450 ft-lbs of torque. The castle nut would be like any other axle/bearing nuts….don't overload it and tear the bearings out. Frankly, I put them a little tighter then a trailer axle as there is no high RPM to be concerned with.
"Actually… the large nut (axle sprocket nut) needs 450 ft-lbs of torque."
By the way, 6brnorma, this is how I fixed the the jack shaft bearings in the end. I replaced the allen screws with longer threads and locked them with a nut and spring washer. Most importantly I also drilled a good size indent into the shaft so the bearing can't slip. I also removed the seal from the inner side of the bearing so that its constantly lubricated by oil that gets thrown around in the chain case. If you look closely you can see that the ball bearings are visible. I dunno if this is a good idea but I guess I'll find out.
"Your right of course. Now I remember reading that and wondering how you measure it. I have a torque wrench for sockets but nothing that can measure torque on a big 'spanner' so I just did it up as tight as I comfortably could."
(6brnorma) "I made two plates to match the face of the axle….one is set up for a slide hammer and the other is set up with a 1" nut so I can use a socket and torque wrench. Works very slick."
