Moving a non running LX885..?

[Soiled]

Hello, I purchased a LX885 over the winter for personal use around the property for upkeep of roads and for preping a house site. I only used the unit a little when I first got it and it has been sitting for a couple months since. Over the winter it was very hard to start in the cold but when the unit is warmed up it fires right up. Anyways, I recently bought a services manual pack and found out I have a short" in the cold start circuit..? I must have some other issue too, now that it is 70 degrees out the unit should start right up even if the cold start is not working properly. There is raw diesel coming out of the exhaust the unit is getting fuel. Long story short, I hate tracking down electrical issues nor do I hae the time to throw parts at it until it is fixed so I want to bring it to a shop for repairs, problem is, I have no idea how to unlock the hydros to winch the skid steer up on my trailer.. I searched every manual with no luck and even threw the seat up and took a look around with no luck either, if any one knows please pass along the info. Thanks for any help, Jeremy

 

[mllud]

Unfortunatly There inst an easy answer. You could take the side covers off and take the chains off the sprockets. That involves loosening the axles to loosen the chains. Theres no master link in the chains.Even if you unhook hydro. line the gear reduction boxes and the hydro. motors dont turn easy. Most guy just drag them. The wheels on my lx865 will turn slow with a hard pull. Mike

 

[Tazza]

Unfortunatly There inst an easy answer. You could take the side covers off and take the chains off the sprockets. That involves loosening the axles to loosen the chains. Theres no master link in the chains.Even if you unhook hydro. line the gear reduction boxes and the hydro. motors dont turn easy. Most guy just drag them. The wheels on my lx865 will turn slow with a hard pull. Mike

First off i would check that your glow plugs are getting power. Its normal for it to be hard to start in the cold. If the plugs are getting power you may want to pull the plugs and check they are actually glowing, if they glow you need to replace them. Its not a good thing when you get raw fuel coming from the exhaust. You should only need to crank for a few seconds to start the machine and if you are getting fuel out the exhaust you must be cranking a LOT. This will damage your starter if you run it too long.

 

[Soiled]

First off i would check that your glow plugs are getting power. Its normal for it to be hard to start in the cold. If the plugs are getting power you may want to pull the plugs and check they are actually glowing, if they glow you need to replace them. Its not a good thing when you get raw fuel coming from the exhaust. You should only need to crank for a few seconds to start the machine and if you are getting fuel out the exhaust you must be cranking a LOT. This will damage your starter if you run it too long.

MLLUD-Wow, that is not what I wanted to hear. I can't figure a way to pull it on to a trailer. I have a 2 car trailer witha winch, and a single car trailer and I can't think of a way to get it on either. (the winch does not have enough power to pull it up .) What does eveyone else do that don't work on their own skid steer??? Tazza-- These units do not have glow plugs, it's just one device that charges the intake air and heat the air being drawn into the motor. My manuals are in the garage or I would give the exact name of the part. Side note- my unit does not have a block heater of any kind, (I will be installing one before next winter.) which seems like a serios oversight by New Holland, similar to not being able to transport a broken tractor. The raw fuel / diesel smoke coming out of the exhaust makes me think there is some sort of saftey device circuit that is not being closed...? The tractor acts like it wants to fire over but no go, it sounds like a gasoline engine that is lacking fuel/spark, but the unspent diesel coming from the exhaust lets me know there is fuel and since there is no spark I am a bit lost. If I can't transport the unit I will be forced to dig into it, so be ready for more annoying questions. Thanks a lot for the feedback guys, Jeremy

 

[Soiled]

MLLUD-Wow, that is not what I wanted to hear. I can't figure a way to pull it on to a trailer. I have a 2 car trailer witha winch, and a single car trailer and I can't think of a way to get it on either. (the winch does not have enough power to pull it up .) What does eveyone else do that don't work on their own skid steer??? Tazza-- These units do not have glow plugs, it's just one device that charges the intake air and heat the air being drawn into the motor. My manuals are in the garage or I would give the exact name of the part. Side note- my unit does not have a block heater of any kind, (I will be installing one before next winter.) which seems like a serios oversight by New Holland, similar to not being able to transport a broken tractor. The raw fuel / diesel smoke coming out of the exhaust makes me think there is some sort of saftey device circuit that is not being closed...? The tractor acts like it wants to fire over but no go, it sounds like a gasoline engine that is lacking fuel/spark, but the unspent diesel coming from the exhaust lets me know there is fuel and since there is no spark I am a bit lost. If I can't transport the unit I will be forced to dig into it, so be ready for more annoying questions. Thanks a lot for the feedback guys, Jeremy

sorry for not proofreading my post, most sites have a edit feature. *serious

 

[Tazza]

sorry for not proofreading my post, most sites have a edit feature. *serious

Sorry, forgot some machines use that style of *glow* system, i do remember hearing about them.
Have you tried giving it a snort of ether? Some people are scared to use it, but i was told modern engine start has additives to lubricate the engine. As yours is giving heaps of fuel i don't think you have any worries about that!
If it was mine, i would try and get it going with a bit of ether and see if you can get it going to load on the trailer. I wouldn't use a heap as i really don't like the sound the engine makes when its started with it.

 

[mllud]

Sorry, forgot some machines use that style of *glow* system, i do remember hearing about them.
Have you tried giving it a snort of ether? Some people are scared to use it, but i was told modern engine start has additives to lubricate the engine. As yours is giving heaps of fuel i don't think you have any worries about that!
If it was mine, i would try and get it going with a bit of ether and see if you can get it going to load on the trailer. I wouldn't use a heap as i really don't like the sound the engine makes when its started with it.

There is a small fuel line that runs from your injector pump to your fuel preheat plug. If your getting a short indicated at the plug maybe that fuel line is dumping fuel into your intake manafold. That fuel line wets the element so the fuel vaporizes in the intake manafold. That preheat plug/glow plug may be a good place to start looking. Mike

 

[mllud]

There is a small fuel line that runs from your injector pump to your fuel preheat plug. If your getting a short indicated at the plug maybe that fuel line is dumping fuel into your intake manafold. That fuel line wets the element so the fuel vaporizes in the intake manafold. That preheat plug/glow plug may be a good place to start looking. Mike

By the way I wish I had a better suggestion on moving/loading your loader. I said a lot of bad words moving mine around until I got it running. Maybe someone else has a suggestion. Mike

 

[skidsteer.ca]

By the way I wish I had a better suggestion on moving/loading your loader. I said a lot of bad words moving mine around until I got it running. Maybe someone else has a suggestion. Mike

I have never had a dead machine. But I guess the common practice is a larger tilt deck tow truck with a winch and drag it on. Might be better then tearing it down in a bad spot.
I would try giving it little sniffs of either while cranking it to see if that will get it to run. It is fairly common in Canada to do this with certain poorer starting diesel engines as a result of the cold climate. Any other option is prefered, but if your back is against the wall, its worth a try.
The worst thing about either is it lowers the compression needed to fire the diesel. Giving a engine too much causes pre ignition. If/when it starts the engine will develope a heavy knock until the either clears. This tough on pistons etc. So alway crank while spraying either. Give it a short little whiff of the stuff and crank for a few seconds, say 3 to 5 seconds to suck it into the engine. Then if the engine don't fire try just a little more.
Anything more then a 2 second long blast from a new either can, that is spraying well, is TOO MUCH imo for a 50 to 60 hp engine.
Used right it is a good starting aid, our old float truck (3406 cat 400hp) loves the stuff on a frosty -8 C morning. It starts rough and shakes and runs and sounds terrible, giving it light sniffs whille starting and every 10 secsonds after for a minute after startup and it purrs like a kitten. Once it builds up a little heat then it runs good
Now if its minus -20C forget it, you will need some engine heat, and pouring either to it would be a death sentence.

 

[92LX555]

I have never had a dead machine. But I guess the common practice is a larger tilt deck tow truck with a winch and drag it on. Might be better then tearing it down in a bad spot.
I would try giving it little sniffs of either while cranking it to see if that will get it to run. It is fairly common in Canada to do this with certain poorer starting diesel engines as a result of the cold climate. Any other option is prefered, but if your back is against the wall, its worth a try.
The worst thing about either is it lowers the compression needed to fire the diesel. Giving a engine too much causes pre ignition. If/when it starts the engine will develope a heavy knock until the either clears. This tough on pistons etc. So alway crank while spraying either. Give it a short little whiff of the stuff and crank for a few seconds, say 3 to 5 seconds to suck it into the engine. Then if the engine don't fire try just a little more.
Anything more then a 2 second long blast from a new either can, that is spraying well, is TOO MUCH imo for a 50 to 60 hp engine.
Used right it is a good starting aid, our old float truck (3406 cat 400hp) loves the stuff on a frosty -8 C morning. It starts rough and shakes and runs and sounds terrible, giving it light sniffs whille starting and every 10 secsonds after for a minute after startup and it purrs like a kitten. Once it builds up a little heat then it runs good
Now if its minus -20C forget it, you will need some engine heat, and pouring either to it would be a death sentence.

Just my opinion but I would not use either, especially if you have the Kubota diesel. I used it once on my 555 and cracked the block. Was told by Kubota that this is common.

 

[Soiled]

Just my opinion but I would not use either, especially if you have the Kubota diesel. I used it once on my 555 and cracked the block. Was told by Kubota that this is common.

Thanks for all the feedback. I will never use liquid death on any engine I own, I realize a lot of people use it all the time, I'm just not one of them. I typically use Carb spray and that usually does the trick, perhaps I'll try that. It still seems like a saftey switch or something else is holding it back, but maybe not.? It's looking more and more like I'm going to dig into it myself. A flatbed wrecker would be good but I'm out in the country and it's about an hour away where I was going to bring it to, so a wrecker wouldn't be cheap. thanks again for all the feedback, keep them coming.

 

[Soiled]

There is a small fuel line that runs from your injector pump to your fuel preheat plug. If your getting a short indicated at the plug maybe that fuel line is dumping fuel into your intake manafold. That fuel line wets the element so the fuel vaporizes in the intake manafold. That preheat plug/glow plug may be a good place to start looking. Mike

Yeah I was thinking that would be the starting point if I am going to dig into it. It's the code that pops up when I run a self diagnostic test through the onboard computer. Thanks for the response.

 

[Earthwerks Unlimited]

It sounds to me like you have a bad injector or two. I would either buy new ones or have all of them rebuilt. As far as moving the machine I would be tempted to remove the lines from the both drive motors and loop each motor's lines together to make a continous closed loop for the fluid to circulate. Be sure to fill the lines before closing the loop, and plug the pump lines too. That may help keep the swash plates lubed until you can get it pulled up on the trailer. Another option would be: don't close-loop the lines, but instead, extend the lines from each motor with clean hose laying around or cheap solvent-resistant heater hose and submerge them in a 5 gallon pail with fluid in it just in case the motors create a suction as they revolve.

 

[skidsteer.ca]

It sounds to me like you have a bad injector or two. I would either buy new ones or have all of them rebuilt. As far as moving the machine I would be tempted to remove the lines from the both drive motors and loop each motor's lines together to make a continous closed loop for the fluid to circulate. Be sure to fill the lines before closing the loop, and plug the pump lines too. That may help keep the swash plates lubed until you can get it pulled up on the trailer. Another option would be: don't close-loop the lines, but instead, extend the lines from each motor with clean hose laying around or cheap solvent-resistant heater hose and submerge them in a 5 gallon pail with fluid in it just in case the motors create a suction as they revolve.

Soiled
Do as you see fit, however I'm a little surprized that someone is is against either would consider spraying something into the engine that was not designed to help start diesels.
Either is a good tool, its just easily misused. Some engines (2 stroke detroit diesels) love the stuff and others go into pre ignition vary easy with it. Also there is a limit to what someone can expect either to acomplish. If its -20, just a little either is not going to work, a using more to try to make the engine start is: 1 not going to work, 2 likely to cause damage, especally in certain engines.
The bad reputation it has come from the people who think that if a little did not work more will be better
Ken

 

[jerry]

Soiled
Do as you see fit, however I'm a little surprized that someone is is against either would consider spraying something into the engine that was not designed to help start diesels.
Either is a good tool, its just easily misused. Some engines (2 stroke detroit diesels) love the stuff and others go into pre ignition vary easy with it. Also there is a limit to what someone can expect either to acomplish. If its -20, just a little either is not going to work, a using more to try to make the engine start is: 1 not going to work, 2 likely to cause damage, especally in certain engines.
The bad reputation it has come from the people who think that if a little did not work more will be better
Ken

Ken is right about starting fluid, it is a good tool and can be used to start anything from a balky lawnmower to a cat but if you use too much you have dry cylinder walls and all kinds of other problems if it gets into the crankcase. If anyone knows about starting engines in the cold I believe it would be him.

 

[Soiled]

Ken is right about starting fluid, it is a good tool and can be used to start anything from a balky lawnmower to a cat but if you use too much you have dry cylinder walls and all kinds of other problems if it gets into the crankcase. If anyone knows about starting engines in the cold I believe it would be him.

I come from a gasoline line of thinking and was told by a great mechanic a long time ago, "if it won't start on it's own then there is a problem". Meaning figure out the problem, fix it, and the engine will start properly. i.e do things the right way. Anyways, I called a different dealer and the head mechanic there suggested ether as well, so I picked up a can tonight and will give it a shot tomorrow. Oh by the way, there are relief valves for the hydros, a mechanic is going to fax me a copy of the pump layout that shows them in detail. Perhaps I'll scan it and post it here for archive purposes. I really appreciate all the help and suggestions.

 

[skidsteer.ca]

I come from a gasoline line of thinking and was told by a great mechanic a long time ago, "if it won't start on it's own then there is a problem". Meaning figure out the problem, fix it, and the engine will start properly. i.e do things the right way. Anyways, I called a different dealer and the head mechanic there suggested ether as well, so I picked up a can tonight and will give it a shot tomorrow. Oh by the way, there are relief valves for the hydros, a mechanic is going to fax me a copy of the pump layout that shows them in detail. Perhaps I'll scan it and post it here for archive purposes. I really appreciate all the help and suggestions.

Soiled
I agree it is not my first choice. Your right about getting it fixed so it starts properly.
But if it gets you running to help trouble shoot the problem or get you home where you are better equiped to handle the problem then I think its worth a try. Oh btw if you have a block heater plug it in too if you can.
Ken

 

[Soiled]

Soiled
I agree it is not my first choice. Your right about getting it fixed so it starts properly.
But if it gets you running to help trouble shoot the problem or get you home where you are better equiped to handle the problem then I think its worth a try. Oh btw if you have a block heater plug it in too if you can.
Ken

Well I'm sorry to report that the starter fluid did not get it going, in fact the only thing it produced were some not so good sounding detenations. It's acting like a gasoline engine that is lacking spark or fuel, It's cranking over real good but it just wont fire. I guess I'll wait for the fax of the hydro valve reliefs tomorrow, sucks because I know it's something simple. I checked out how to rebuild the injectors in the manual and it appears to be an easy task. The guy I purchased the steer from said that they had been done not to long ago but I have no way of verifying it by looking at them. Oh btw, I don't have a block heater but it will have one before next winter. I live in TN and it should be plenty warm to start it right now. I'm going to go back into the on board diagnostics and see if I can dig anything else up. Anyone else want to jump in please feel free to.

 

[mllud]

Well I'm sorry to report that the starter fluid did not get it going, in fact the only thing it produced were some not so good sounding detenations. It's acting like a gasoline engine that is lacking spark or fuel, It's cranking over real good but it just wont fire. I guess I'll wait for the fax of the hydro valve reliefs tomorrow, sucks because I know it's something simple. I checked out how to rebuild the injectors in the manual and it appears to be an easy task. The guy I purchased the steer from said that they had been done not to long ago but I have no way of verifying it by looking at them. Oh btw, I don't have a block heater but it will have one before next winter. I live in TN and it should be plenty warm to start it right now. I'm going to go back into the on board diagnostics and see if I can dig anything else up. Anyone else want to jump in please feel free to.

The check valves are on the side of the hydrostatic pumps toward the bottom. There are two. They are directly opposite of each other,one on each side of the pump. One is for forward and one is for reverse.Each pump will have two.
I dont know if removing them will help you move it. I had my pumps out of my lx865 and it was still hard to drag. The gear reduction boxes and hydraulic motors still have to turn. I hope it helps enough for you to get it loaded.
The injectors are easy to clean. Just keep the parts for each injector with that injector. Carberator cleaner will clean the nozzles. The holes are tiny.
I know you said you had fuel coming out of you muffler. Even with a lot of cranking that sounds excessive. Crank it a little before you pull the injectors. They should be wet if your getting all that fuel. Someone didnt put gas in by some chance? Could you have water in your fuel?
I live in Misouri, you shouldnt even need a glow this time of year. You farther south than I am. It may be necessary if your engine has low compresion.Good luck
Mike