LX 665 starting issues

[Lechbuild]

Hello, I am new to this site, I did a fair amount of research prior to posting. My problem is starting the skid steer, it will start fine but will shut off in a few seconds. I am also reading error code 2. Just like most of the other posts when switched from run to service the skid steer will run fine. I have also encountered some clicking noise, which has been around for awhile. The clicking would also act up and not allow start, of course with turning the key back and forth the machine would start and run normal. Trouble shooting I tested the wire on the fuel solenoid, key on, s/r switch in run, and no power. Next I tried s/r switch in service, key on, and I had power. I do not have a service manual and have been reading on this site for a couple hours. In most cases the interlock relay has been the culpret and or the s/r switch. Any help would be appreaciated. Trouble shooting wiring is not my forte. (Lots of switches and stuff). Thanks Chad

 

[jerry]

when I had starting issues this was the post from another member that helped me.
Let me start with a text description of how this circuit works. If this won't do, let me know and I'll try to follow up with photocopies of my photocopies, but the print is tiny and I have a feeling they'll not be too legible. Plus I only have dial up connection and they'll take forever to download. With the key on and the run service switch in the run position, seat belt bucked or jumped, seat switch closed and the key in the on position, the orange/white wire on the interlock relay should be energized with juice from the seat belt/seat switch circuit. With the key in the start position, the white/lt green wire on the interlock relay should be energized with juice coming from the post on the service/run switch. If these conditions are met, juice should flow across the interlock relay to the start relay via the white/Drk Blue wire, then to the starter solenoid via the red/white wire, to the EIC pin 10 via the white wire (not via the interlock relay) and the starter should kick. Power should also flow from the light blu/Orange wire to the fuel solenoid on the injection pump. An interlock relay is a part # 86521256 and is $44.33 on the Messick's site.
It was the interlock relay on my machine and found out later there were some on e bay for about half price. If you follow this it will tell you whether or not yours is working.

 

[Skel]

when I had starting issues this was the post from another member that helped me.
Let me start with a text description of how this circuit works. If this won't do, let me know and I'll try to follow up with photocopies of my photocopies, but the print is tiny and I have a feeling they'll not be too legible. Plus I only have dial up connection and they'll take forever to download. With the key on and the run service switch in the run position, seat belt bucked or jumped, seat switch closed and the key in the on position, the orange/white wire on the interlock relay should be energized with juice from the seat belt/seat switch circuit. With the key in the start position, the white/lt green wire on the interlock relay should be energized with juice coming from the post on the service/run switch. If these conditions are met, juice should flow across the interlock relay to the start relay via the white/Drk Blue wire, then to the starter solenoid via the red/white wire, to the EIC pin 10 via the white wire (not via the interlock relay) and the starter should kick. Power should also flow from the light blu/Orange wire to the fuel solenoid on the injection pump. An interlock relay is a part # 86521256 and is $44.33 on the Messick's site.
It was the interlock relay on my machine and found out later there were some on e bay for about half price. If you follow this it will tell you whether or not yours is working.

I've got a Deere 6675 which I believe is basically the same machine and I had similar problems. It would run perfectly in service mode but shutdown within a couple seconds when switched to run mode. Did alot of electrical troubleshooting and found a bad start interlock relay. I suggest trying a new relay for $50 as these are know to fail on a regular basis. Good luck.

 

[Mike10]

Make it three for three. It is probably the start interlock relay. Since the engine starts and runs, you can assume the wiring is not the problem. Once the key is released to the run position the instrument panel sends power directly to the fuel shutoff solenoid via a common post on the start interlock relay. Evidently the relays short out internally causing the instrument panel to shut off power to the common post on the relay. I would only use original equipment relays. Looking at the pictures on eBay, it appears those relays are not sealed. NH used unsealed relays for a time, but they had alot of problems with them.

 

[Lechbuild]

First of all I would like to thank everyone for their reply's to my post. I checked the electrical and the white/ green wire does not have power (on the interlock relay) when the key is in the start position. I do however have power on white/ orange with the key in the on position. Is there any other suggestions. thanks

 

[Mike10]

First of all I would like to thank everyone for their reply's to my post. I checked the electrical and the white/ green wire does not have power (on the interlock relay) when the key is in the start position. I do however have power on white/ orange with the key in the on position. Is there any other suggestions. thanks

The W/ltgn wire comes from the service run switch. When the key is turned to the start position, power is sent out the white wire on the switch to the service run switch. With the service run switch in operate position the power from this white wire is sent out the terminal with W/ltgn wire to the start interlock relay.

 

[Lechbuild]

Correction, the white/ light green wire does have power when turned to start. The white/ orange wire also has power when the key is in the on position. I am wondering if its a silenoide somewhere.

 

[Mike10]

Correction, the white/ light green wire does have power when turned to start. The white/ orange wire also has power when the key is in the on position. I am wondering if its a silenoide somewhere.

You should also have power at the orange wire. The source for this power is a 5 amp fuse in the cab fuse panel. The orange wire supplies power to the fuel shutoff solenoid when the key is turned to start thus energizing the start interlock relay and completing the circuit from the orange wire to the fuel shut off solenoid.

 

[Lechbuild]

Ok, thanks for the reply's, here's the thing, I replaced the interlock relay today with no change. I do have power to the white/ orange wire with the key in the on position and I do have power to the white/ light green wire in the start position. The machine also starts every time, but shuts off in just a few seconds. The machine will also start and run fine in the service mode. I jumped the blue/ orange wire on the service switch and grounded to the green on the key, the machine started and ran fine, as soon as I remove the the jumper wire the machine shut off. We owned the machine since new and have 1,300 hours on it. Its always stored inside. Recently I found a mouse nest in the overhead of the cab, 2 of the light wires were exposed and I replaced them with new. Also the count down had quit working 4 months ago, I realize this will be an issue in the winter and plan to problem solve soon, but am not sure if the issue I am having is related. Note: I inspected all the wires above the cab with no other problems, but if the machine is to sit one day, the next morning when I start it the machine will run fine just like usuall, untill I shut it off and restart. I am however considering replacing the service switch (process or elimanation).

 

[Mike10]

Ok, thanks for the reply's, here's the thing, I replaced the interlock relay today with no change. I do have power to the white/ orange wire with the key in the on position and I do have power to the white/ light green wire in the start position. The machine also starts every time, but shuts off in just a few seconds. The machine will also start and run fine in the service mode. I jumped the blue/ orange wire on the service switch and grounded to the green on the key, the machine started and ran fine, as soon as I remove the the jumper wire the machine shut off. We owned the machine since new and have 1,300 hours on it. Its always stored inside. Recently I found a mouse nest in the overhead of the cab, 2 of the light wires were exposed and I replaced them with new. Also the count down had quit working 4 months ago, I realize this will be an issue in the winter and plan to problem solve soon, but am not sure if the issue I am having is related. Note: I inspected all the wires above the cab with no other problems, but if the machine is to sit one day, the next morning when I start it the machine will run fine just like usuall, untill I shut it off and restart. I am however considering replacing the service switch (process or elimanation).

Do you have access to another LX or LS machine where you can borrow the instrument panel. Since you are getting a ER message indicates you have an early instrument panel. The way to tell if you have an early or later model is by the color of the stripes around the lights. If it is silver than you have an early model and these were subject to corrosion and you can have weird things happen if that happens. Gold is the color of the later panels.
Once the key is released the fuel solenoid gets power from the instrument panel and has nothing to do with the service run switch. I do not have the wiring diagram in from of me but the power from the instrument panel goes to the terminal on the start interlock relay and from there to the fuel solenoid. There should be one terminal on the relay with two wires.
If you have not removed the instrument panel you may want to and check the connectors on the back to make sure they are fully connected or that there is not broken wires at the connector.

 

[Lechbuild]

I ended up taking the machine in. Turns out the computer board was bad. The skid steer works great again. Only problem was the they let me demo a L220 till mine was fixed, know I would like a new one.