L565 temp/hydrolics/sensor lights

[heatpumpproducts]

1.i have just finished to install my heater , and when i started the machine a new light was flashing , the top left corner it has a tear drop in a gear and a bar under it , now at the same time on the right side the tear drop in a gear light was flashing , and for the first time the hydrolic temp had a reading of 250 degress cel before this it only read cold , now i ran it hard last week end for snow storm clean up for 5 hrs and 3.5 hrs again the next day but it read only cold WHAT'S up. the fluid is at a good level and does not seem to be dropping at all my other question is where is the sensor for the hydrolic system and if it reads is it bad ,can it be calibrated .could you email me an explanation of the different lights . 2.i still have a little fad in the bucket , starting to be a pain in the but .is thier anything you mite suggest on whats the cause is .(the bucket falls forward slowly ,when put in the forthest most up right position towards the cab .)email ;[email protected] thanks from n.b.can.

 

[mllud]

When you added your heater you increased your cooling capacity. The heater core is a small radiator.The heat you feel is being taken away from your engine Mike

 

[mllud]

When you added your heater you increased your cooling capacity. The heater core is a small radiator.The heat you feel is being taken away from your engine Mike

I misread your Question . It your hydraulic sys. light. Ill look in my manual to see if I can help. Mike

 

[heatpumpproducts]

I misread your Question . It your hydraulic sys. light. Ill look in my manual to see if I can help. Mike

thanks mike, i mite put to many thought down at 1 time . but i'm new to skid steer and don't know the lingo yet. sorry for the confusion , also i can't spell , spell cheack would be a great help for me on this foroum.FORUM ....

 

[mllud]

I misread your Question . It your hydraulic sys. light. Ill look in my manual to see if I can help. Mike

There are two sencors for your hydraulic system. one for pressure and one for temperature. They cant be calabrated.The one for temperature is on the side of the hyd. tank. the one for pressure us on the end of a short Hyd.line with two wires conected to it. You may need to get a kit to rebuild your control block to stop your drifting bucket. I will get in my book and try to get you an explanation of lights.Mike

 

[mllud]

There are two sencors for your hydraulic system. one for pressure and one for temperature. They cant be calabrated.The one for temperature is on the side of the hyd. tank. the one for pressure us on the end of a short Hyd.line with two wires conected to it. You may need to get a kit to rebuild your control block to stop your drifting bucket. I will get in my book and try to get you an explanation of lights.Mike

The teardrop in the gear on the Left is for Hydraulic oil filter. thats a third sencor I forgot about. The one on the right is hyd. oil temp. Light on indicates cold oil. It stays on until your oil warms to 32 Degrees f. 0 degrees C. You can order a manual by calling 1-800-635-4913 They have several manual for each model. The operator manual is great. It has a lot of info.To maintain your loaader you almost have to have the operator manual
Your hydraulic oil filter needs changing. That the light on the left.. I cant spell either. Mike

 

[skidsteer.ca]

The teardrop in the gear on the Left is for Hydraulic oil filter. thats a third sencor I forgot about. The one on the right is hyd. oil temp. Light on indicates cold oil. It stays on until your oil warms to 32 Degrees f. 0 degrees C. You can order a manual by calling 1-800-635-4913 They have several manual for each model. The operator manual is great. It has a lot of info.To maintain your loaader you almost have to have the operator manual
Your hydraulic oil filter needs changing. That the light on the left.. I cant spell either. Mike

In the winter months I often never get my hydraulics to stop reading "cold" for a temp. It would seem these have good oil coolers.
Ken

 

[mllud]

In the winter months I often never get my hydraulics to stop reading "cold" for a temp. It would seem these have good oil coolers.
Ken

Heatpumproducts: .When Yours got up to 250 . That was because your filter is dirty and restricting flow.That is the light on the left. Teardrop with the gear around it. The filter is next to the radiator .
Ken or anyone ele reading this. In your travels if you see any lx865 models being parted out I need a dash board. Im working around mine but would like to have it back to original. Mike

 

[heatpumpproducts]

Heatpumproducts: .When Yours got up to 250 . That was because your filter is dirty and restricting flow.That is the light on the left. Teardrop with the gear around it. The filter is next to the radiator .
Ken or anyone ele reading this. In your travels if you see any lx865 models being parted out I need a dash board. Im working around mine but would like to have it back to original. Mike

OK ,I changed the filter for the hydrolics on the riight side of the rear door . the light on the panel went out and then with in minutes back on , the temp read cold just after as well,and went back to reading 250 degress f. What else can i try , the presure sensor cost 89.00 bucks and the temp sensor 27.00 bucks (by the way its the same one for the engine temp as the hydrolic temp)i ordered the temp sensor should be here monday from the dealer here. the first filter looked new and as this is a new to me skid i don't know if i can trust the date and hr stamped on it when it was last changed some 60 hrs or less ago . but my question is can the hydro system get blocked by frozen condesation , how many times ,or should i say how long do you leave the fluid in the system . a friend (he is a mechamic ) told me that it is not nessasary to even change the filter litle lone the the fluid in his opion . he never had to change his ??? i thought these were were sealed systems . so if that is correct the contmination has to come home the internal workings ...pump , hydrsatic, gear pumps . what if any thing can i do to check the systems , and it still has good power , the wheels move quick , and bucket and boom all have good power , so i blockage is does not seem likely .but i don't want to hurt it by running it this way . I DON'T KNOW , THIS IS JUST MY OPPINION. talking out load . i'll ckeck the sensors for a bad wire and recheck all the grounds . the sensors should be able to test them for resitance rights or wrong . with out hurting them . Any feed back would help as the local dealer just wont offer me any help with out bringing it to them first , i understand BUT . o well its thier business .

 

[jerry]

OK ,I changed the filter for the hydrolics on the riight side of the rear door . the light on the panel went out and then with in minutes back on , the temp read cold just after as well,and went back to reading 250 degress f. What else can i try , the presure sensor cost 89.00 bucks and the temp sensor 27.00 bucks (by the way its the same one for the engine temp as the hydrolic temp)i ordered the temp sensor should be here monday from the dealer here. the first filter looked new and as this is a new to me skid i don't know if i can trust the date and hr stamped on it when it was last changed some 60 hrs or less ago . but my question is can the hydro system get blocked by frozen condesation , how many times ,or should i say how long do you leave the fluid in the system . a friend (he is a mechamic ) told me that it is not nessasary to even change the filter litle lone the the fluid in his opion . he never had to change his ??? i thought these were were sealed systems . so if that is correct the contmination has to come home the internal workings ...pump , hydrsatic, gear pumps . what if any thing can i do to check the systems , and it still has good power , the wheels move quick , and bucket and boom all have good power , so i blockage is does not seem likely .but i don't want to hurt it by running it this way . I DON'T KNOW , THIS IS JUST MY OPPINION. talking out load . i'll ckeck the sensors for a bad wire and recheck all the grounds . the sensors should be able to test them for resitance rights or wrong . with out hurting them . Any feed back would help as the local dealer just wont offer me any help with out bringing it to them first , i understand BUT . o well its thier business .

Since the heater install caused all of this go back and disconnect the heater wiring from the circuit and see if that changes anything.

 

[mllud]

Since the heater install caused all of this go back and disconnect the heater wiring from the circuit and see if that changes anything.

I would take a look at the wiring . As Jerry said you might look at anything you changed. When you installed your switches for your heater did you take the dash out. Posibly a loose ground! I would run it long enough for the temperature to read 250 degrese and touch the hydraulic hoses. You will feel it if its hot. I dought if your hyd. system is blocked The way things seemed to have changed with the dash makes me think of a loose ground. There is a skeduled for changing hyd. filter and fluids. I hope someone else has other sugestions. Ill read my manual some in the morning yo see if I can find anything. Mike

 

[skidsteer.ca]

I would take a look at the wiring . As Jerry said you might look at anything you changed. When you installed your switches for your heater did you take the dash out. Posibly a loose ground! I would run it long enough for the temperature to read 250 degrese and touch the hydraulic hoses. You will feel it if its hot. I dought if your hyd. system is blocked The way things seemed to have changed with the dash makes me think of a loose ground. There is a skeduled for changing hyd. filter and fluids. I hope someone else has other sugestions. Ill read my manual some in the morning yo see if I can find anything. Mike

You caused a wiring problem somehow with the heater. Check the temp by feel where the sender installs. I can't see it getting to 250, but if it is you should be able to feel it. It takes along time to warm the oil in my loader, and even brushing in the summer I never see it over 140f
Filter should be good for 500 hours and the oil they recommend changing every 1000 on a Bobcat not certain on NH, but simular I'd think, though I'm sure some never get changed. Most of the logging machine around here just have oil added as needed, never replaced.
Ken

 

[Tazza]

You caused a wiring problem somehow with the heater. Check the temp by feel where the sender installs. I can't see it getting to 250, but if it is you should be able to feel it. It takes along time to warm the oil in my loader, and even brushing in the summer I never see it over 140f
Filter should be good for 500 hours and the oil they recommend changing every 1000 on a Bobcat not certain on NH, but simular I'd think, though I'm sure some never get changed. Most of the logging machine around here just have oil added as needed, never replaced.
Ken

Oil starts to break down over time thats why it needs to be replaced. Even though its a sealed circuit you still have an air vent in your hydraulic tank that allows air in and out, this is a possible entry point of moisture in the air to get in the oil, very slight but its possible. Frezing moisture in your oil i would seriously doubt. If your oil is still the correct colour i would say its not an issue. If it was white you must change the oil straight away and work out how water got in there.
Senders do go bad, i like the advise of feeling the fitting where the sender plugs in, its a good indication of if its bad or not. If it feels stone cold but reads 150F you know something isn't rite! I have had this on coolant temp senders before, reads low or reads as way WAY too hot (scared the poo out of me when it did that, thought i cooked the engine).

 

[mllud]

I would take a look at the wiring . As Jerry said you might look at anything you changed. When you installed your switches for your heater did you take the dash out. Posibly a loose ground! I would run it long enough for the temperature to read 250 degrese and touch the hydraulic hoses. You will feel it if its hot. I dought if your hyd. system is blocked The way things seemed to have changed with the dash makes me think of a loose ground. There is a skeduled for changing hyd. filter and fluids. I hope someone else has other sugestions. Ill read my manual some in the morning yo see if I can find anything. Mike

When you find out if your hydraulic system is actually getting hot or if its your sencors/dash panel. If it is actually hot look at the oil cooler behind the radiator. they get clogged with dirt.especially if the loader has had a leak and blown oil thru and then the dirt collects. You asked if there is a way to check hyd. system. You can commect a hydraulic pressure guage to your aux. hydraulic connection to check pressure. If your system was blocked or restricted your pumps would be whinning and it wouldnt be operating as you say it is. Mike

 

[heatpumpproducts]

When you find out if your hydraulic system is actually getting hot or if its your sencors/dash panel. If it is actually hot look at the oil cooler behind the radiator. they get clogged with dirt.especially if the loader has had a leak and blown oil thru and then the dirt collects. You asked if there is a way to check hyd. system. You can commect a hydraulic pressure guage to your aux. hydraulic connection to check pressure. If your system was blocked or restricted your pumps would be whinning and it wouldnt be operating as you say it is. Mike

i just ordered my manual (operation) for my L565. but i still have a few questions on what do the sensors do , now the hydrolic temp -reads temp of the fluid in the return tank of the hydro and but wear does it get its power from , the hydrolic presure sensor is located at the hydrolic filtertowards the out side fender, but where does it get its power from , and when can it be activated when the service switch is on or only in the run and ignition cycle . the third switch is called a restrictor located on the other side of the hydrolic filter ,What does it do. again how would i test it . i some times have probles with the seat belt making good contact and this seams to lock out the arms and bucket , i have other post about that .( i read on a post that that there is a service bulleton on this problem .were do i find out about these BULLETON'S and would the dealer still have to warrenty it . or are they just going to explane a way to fix it. i also have a problem with the bucket rotating slowly forward away from the cab when in motion full or empty ,but it still has lots of power to break out hard ice and snow . the messick parts site shows the hydro checks for the bucket but where is it located on the machine . now what if anything can i do to check for falt or problems with it .is there any electrical conections on its that could be the problem and could all of these be related some how . i will check all grounds today that i can find and repost .

 

[heatpumpproducts]

i just ordered my manual (operation) for my L565. but i still have a few questions on what do the sensors do , now the hydrolic temp -reads temp of the fluid in the return tank of the hydro and but wear does it get its power from , the hydrolic presure sensor is located at the hydrolic filtertowards the out side fender, but where does it get its power from , and when can it be activated when the service switch is on or only in the run and ignition cycle . the third switch is called a restrictor located on the other side of the hydrolic filter ,What does it do. again how would i test it . i some times have probles with the seat belt making good contact and this seams to lock out the arms and bucket , i have other post about that .( i read on a post that that there is a service bulleton on this problem .were do i find out about these BULLETON'S and would the dealer still have to warrenty it . or are they just going to explane a way to fix it. i also have a problem with the bucket rotating slowly forward away from the cab when in motion full or empty ,but it still has lots of power to break out hard ice and snow . the messick parts site shows the hydro checks for the bucket but where is it located on the machine . now what if anything can i do to check for falt or problems with it .is there any electrical conections on its that could be the problem and could all of these be related some how . i will check all grounds today that i can find and repost .

o to respond too: i did not open the front dash board were the warning lights are located , but did have a loose conection on the ignition , fixed . the lights system and heater , is powered direct to battery, the to 40 amp circut breaker and then three 20 amp relays and the fused switches and a multipy 12 volt conection using the same circut breaker powers the heater , dome light , relay for the hd lights , and eventualy wiper motor and wiper fluid motor pump. all of these items are not original equipment , the heater is a copy of the type used at factory , plumbing and location even bought the factory switches and valve controle , but is a after market core and one piece blower $160.00 ebay . 15000 btu. its cold here , the factory model is 12500 btu . i bet i have less that $400.00 invested in it and the dealer wanted $1600.00 now so far i put a new chair in with only one presure switch , i put a double spaded wire and conected it were the other switch was so it acts like it is permanently depressed. the hydrolic and engine oil was very low and added 10/30 hd oil in both .But NOW I NOTICED the engine is a bit hungry for oil the hydro level has not changed after 15 hrs of run time . both fluid look clean , no emultion , the engine was very dirty and was washed down , it does not apear to be leaking out . and i don't notice any blue smoke . indicating oil burning after by passing rings . i just bought for filters 2x fuel and hydrolic each ,145.00for the 4 of them, any one know of a less expencive source than the dealer . i am geting 13.6 volts from the battery and the engine starts on the first start after glow plugs , i think , i put the seatbelt on ,hit the run switch,turn the key wait on average 8 sec and peep turn the key and away she goes . Do i need to push the glow blug switch to activate them? or are they auto matic . i changed the fuel filter and added a battery blanket and a magnetic block heater and anti-gel and methal hydrite to the fuel it was frozen bad when i first got it home , now its fine . is thier any harm to the hydrolic systems if they are to cold and is thier a way to add a heat source to bring the temperature up and while running .

 

[heatpumpproducts]

o to respond too: i did not open the front dash board were the warning lights are located , but did have a loose conection on the ignition , fixed . the lights system and heater , is powered direct to battery, the to 40 amp circut breaker and then three 20 amp relays and the fused switches and a multipy 12 volt conection using the same circut breaker powers the heater , dome light , relay for the hd lights , and eventualy wiper motor and wiper fluid motor pump. all of these items are not original equipment , the heater is a copy of the type used at factory , plumbing and location even bought the factory switches and valve controle , but is a after market core and one piece blower $160.00 ebay . 15000 btu. its cold here , the factory model is 12500 btu . i bet i have less that $400.00 invested in it and the dealer wanted $1600.00 now so far i put a new chair in with only one presure switch , i put a double spaded wire and conected it were the other switch was so it acts like it is permanently depressed. the hydrolic and engine oil was very low and added 10/30 hd oil in both .But NOW I NOTICED the engine is a bit hungry for oil the hydro level has not changed after 15 hrs of run time . both fluid look clean , no emultion , the engine was very dirty and was washed down , it does not apear to be leaking out . and i don't notice any blue smoke . indicating oil burning after by passing rings . i just bought for filters 2x fuel and hydrolic each ,145.00for the 4 of them, any one know of a less expencive source than the dealer . i am geting 13.6 volts from the battery and the engine starts on the first start after glow plugs , i think , i put the seatbelt on ,hit the run switch,turn the key wait on average 8 sec and peep turn the key and away she goes . Do i need to push the glow blug switch to activate them? or are they auto matic . i changed the fuel filter and added a battery blanket and a magnetic block heater and anti-gel and methal hydrite to the fuel it was frozen bad when i first got it home , now its fine . is thier any harm to the hydrolic systems if they are to cold and is thier a way to add a heat source to bring the temperature up and while running .

well i cleaned as many conects that i could find , including the grounds on the engine behind the seat , But unable to reach the temp sensor for the hydrolics exsept to know its covered in muck , the wires are aas well , i'll need to clean it down in the spring . (i opened a new post on how to split the oropes ) i put my aux hydrolics to use for the first time , with my blade . it works all right but it moves aposite to the way my hand does , can it be reversed , by switching the lines , or am i stuck with this . i only bring it up here because the fluid in the aux has not been circulted and i that my be well no change with the lights , except the temperature now changes on the ei panel and the warning lights go away now and then and the filter light flashes and the the alarm peeps but i havent been able to put a patern on it yet . it took litle or no oil in the engine the last time out . and the hydrolic seem to be constant as well . i was thinking that if i had a leak i would have seen a sure drop in the resovoire or sump . would that be true .

 

[skidsteer.ca]

well i cleaned as many conects that i could find , including the grounds on the engine behind the seat , But unable to reach the temp sensor for the hydrolics exsept to know its covered in muck , the wires are aas well , i'll need to clean it down in the spring . (i opened a new post on how to split the oropes ) i put my aux hydrolics to use for the first time , with my blade . it works all right but it moves aposite to the way my hand does , can it be reversed , by switching the lines , or am i stuck with this . i only bring it up here because the fluid in the aux has not been circulted and i that my be well no change with the lights , except the temperature now changes on the ei panel and the warning lights go away now and then and the filter light flashes and the the alarm peeps but i havent been able to put a patern on it yet . it took litle or no oil in the engine the last time out . and the hydrolic seem to be constant as well . i was thinking that if i had a leak i would have seen a sure drop in the resovoire or sump . would that be true .

with my blade . it works all right but it moves aposite to the way my hand does , can it be reversed , by switching the lines , or am i stuck with this .
No you just switch the lines
i was thinking that if i had a leak i would have seen a sure drop in the resovoire or sump . would that be true .
Yes the res would drop.
Ken

 

[heatpumpproducts]

There are two sencors for your hydraulic system. one for pressure and one for temperature. They cant be calabrated.The one for temperature is on the side of the hyd. tank. the one for pressure us on the end of a short Hyd.line with two wires conected to it. You may need to get a kit to rebuild your control block to stop your drifting bucket. I will get in my book and try to get you an explanation of lights.Mike

mike i just found that the leak , The presure sender has a small ruber diaphrame that leaks , when the machine is running but only when the hydraulics are in gaged , boom, ect.
the alarm sounded and 30 seconds later the engine shut down , so i tryed an experiment ,
this is the one with the 2 blacks and 1 white wire attached to it , i unscrewed the 2 black wires , and low and behold the alam STOPED . the machine had way more power , too.
yes it still leaked but the engine still runs , july 12/08 , now .
but i wanted you to know you were right .
i did get the inside cleaned out of muck . and found some small oil leaks , even change the temp sensor @ the hydraulic resivoir tank ,were it was burried in muck about 4 inchs deep .
i thought the moisture from the muck mite be shorting , or grounding something . but it did not appear to be now , that its clean .
that presure switch is it a vavle , or silenode ,or just reads resistance , it the hydraulic presure
is blowing past before it reaches the filter but after the cheak valve would that indicate a plug filter or restriction at on time , i think that the fluid presure thier is 100psi .
to at the same time we took a reading of temperature witha lazer pointer temp reader . each of the motors the drive the axels were 110 degrees,
the forward pump 101 degress the rear pump 134 dregrees , the gear pump for aux was 100 degrees . and i found a little leaks at both top sides of the piston pump comming from under the metal plate that suround the controle leaver shafts for stearing . i ordered new seals .
i also replaced the controle lever bearings as they put the pumps into a hum when they were let go buy thier own weight from side lash , that made them more solid feeling . and quited down the piston pumps . of course i did not notice the noise before or untill i replaced the exhaust manifold gaskets .
i have sent for the 4 hydraulic cylinders packing , as i believe that is the source of most of the heat in the system . because the bucket cylinders wont lock,hold them selves in place , even when not under load , and if left in the sun with the engine off they will exstend them selves .
i only noticed this while i was fixing a broke out pin on the boom arm where it conects to the quick attach .
i'll let you know what happen next. lol.