Kubota v1902 won't start

[kohl_cytre]

Hello Everyone, My name is Kohl and I'm new here. I've been checking out all the threads on the forum and I've been enjoying all the tips and help everyone has been passing around. I was hoping someone might be able to help me out with a problem. I recently purchased a Scat Trax 1350. I bought it knowing it did not run and today has been the first opportunity I've had to start troubleshooting it. It has a Kubota v1902 4 cyl. diesel. It turns over but does not start. This is what I've tried so far today. 1- Check for fuel flow out of the tank. Good flow. 2- Checked for fuel flow out of the filter assembly. Good flow and was replaced by the previous owner recently. 3- Checked the mechanical fuel pump for operation. No flow during a turn over cycle. The pump has an arm on the side which I'm assuming is for manual priming. I disconnected both the inlet and outlet tube. Placed the inlet tube into a cup of diesel and pumped the manual lever. No flow what so ever. I'm thinking that should of worked for flow. Also what is the outlet psi on these pumps? I'll be replacing all fuel hose soon as it's getting really brittle. I'm hoping I'm on the right track just need a little help. Thank you!!

 

[Bobcatdan]

Those little pumps don't create a lot of flow and maybe 5 psi, its not much. They rarely fair. We stock them just because we can't talk people out of replacing them. I would check the fuel shut off. I would think you have a electric solenoid. I have seen the fuel rack stick stick. If you are doing new fuel lines, put a inline boat primer like a bobcat in, those work so much better then those pump primers. Injector pump and injector problems are few and far between.

 

[kohl_cytre]

Those little pumps don't create a lot of flow and maybe 5 psi, its not much. They rarely fair. We stock them just because we can't talk people out of replacing them. I would check the fuel shut off. I would think you have a electric solenoid. I have seen the fuel rack stick stick. If you are doing new fuel lines, put a inline boat primer like a bobcat in, those work so much better then those pump primers. Injector pump and injector problems are few and far between.

I have not seen any fuel shut off solenoid. The fuel line comes directly out of the filter assembly and goes directly to the mechanical fuel pump. Am I correct in saying, that when I dissconected the fuel pump lines and placed the inlet line for the fuel pump in a container of fuel and pumped the primer lever, it should of pulled up fuel? I would think that would of moved fuel but maybe I'm wrong. It did nothing. What would be a good troubleshooting procedure for testing the fuel rack and if it is sticking? Thank you!!

 

[Bobcatdan]

I have not seen any fuel shut off solenoid. The fuel line comes directly out of the filter assembly and goes directly to the mechanical fuel pump. Am I correct in saying, that when I dissconected the fuel pump lines and placed the inlet line for the fuel pump in a container of fuel and pumped the primer lever, it should of pulled up fuel? I would think that would of moved fuel but maybe I'm wrong. It did nothing. What would be a good troubleshooting procedure for testing the fuel rack and if it is sticking? Thank you!!

There has to be someway to shut the engine off. Either there is kill knob the looks like a choke cable or an electric solenoid. The transfer pump has to be primed before it will pump.

 

[kohl_cytre]

There has to be someway to shut the engine off. Either there is kill knob the looks like a choke cable or an electric solenoid. The transfer pump has to be primed before it will pump.

The only shut off I can see is the engine stop lever. I've looked over my engine parts breakdown manual and it shows no solenoid.

 

[Tazza]

There has to be someway to shut the engine off. Either there is kill knob the looks like a choke cable or an electric solenoid. The transfer pump has to be primed before it will pump.

Bobcat have made priming very simple for their machies. They installed essentially a boat hand primer inline before the fuel filter. You open the bleed screw on the injector pump where the fuel goes in and pump the hand primer, it bleeds the system for you. I'd suggest you get one of them to give it a test. They are cheap and make priming a breeze.
You mentioned you had no fuel out of the lift pump, with the hand primer inline, squeeze it, you should get fuel out of the pump. They can fall apart and get clogged, the hand primer would confirm this for you.
If no fuel is getting through, bypass it and run the fuel hose from the filter straight to the injector pump (never run it without a filter inline), keep the bleed screw open and pump the hand primer till it feels smooth and no bubbles can be felt. Close the bleed screw, give the hand primer a good squeeze so it is firm, get someone to crank the engine and keep squeezing, see if it fires. The hand primer will act as a lift pump while you have by-passed it.
As Dan said, ensure the fuel shut off solenoid is working too. It should have a lever on the side of the block, just below the injector pump. It could be cable driven or with an electric solenoid with 3 wires hanging off it. It must not be in the stop position or no fuel will get to the injectors.
Hopefully that is somewhere to start.

 

[kohl_cytre]

Bobcat have made priming very simple for their machies. They installed essentially a boat hand primer inline before the fuel filter. You open the bleed screw on the injector pump where the fuel goes in and pump the hand primer, it bleeds the system for you. I'd suggest you get one of them to give it a test. They are cheap and make priming a breeze.
You mentioned you had no fuel out of the lift pump, with the hand primer inline, squeeze it, you should get fuel out of the pump. They can fall apart and get clogged, the hand primer would confirm this for you.
If no fuel is getting through, bypass it and run the fuel hose from the filter straight to the injector pump (never run it without a filter inline), keep the bleed screw open and pump the hand primer till it feels smooth and no bubbles can be felt. Close the bleed screw, give the hand primer a good squeeze so it is firm, get someone to crank the engine and keep squeezing, see if it fires. The hand primer will act as a lift pump while you have by-passed it.
As Dan said, ensure the fuel shut off solenoid is working too. It should have a lever on the side of the block, just below the injector pump. It could be cable driven or with an electric solenoid with 3 wires hanging off it. It must not be in the stop position or no fuel will get to the injectors.
Hopefully that is somewhere to start.

Thank you guys! I'll pick up a boat hand primer and give that a shot. On my fuel injector there is a knob that is called the "jet starter" I'm guessing that is the bleed screw. That's where the output of the fuel pump ties into the injector pump. My machine has the fuel shut off connected with the throttle lever. Pull the throttle lever all the way back and it goes into a stop position. I'm really excited and will try the hand primer as soon as I can get my hands on one. I'll let you guys know how that goes. I really appreciate all your knowledge and expertise!! Thank you very much!!

 

[Tazza]

Thank you guys! I'll pick up a boat hand primer and give that a shot. On my fuel injector there is a knob that is called the "jet starter" I'm guessing that is the bleed screw. That's where the output of the fuel pump ties into the injector pump. My machine has the fuel shut off connected with the throttle lever. Pull the throttle lever all the way back and it goes into a stop position. I'm really excited and will try the hand primer as soon as I can get my hands on one. I'll let you guys know how that goes. I really appreciate all your knowledge and expertise!! Thank you very much!!

Just ensure you tighten up the bleed screw before trying to start it, without it being closed you may not have enough fuel pressure.
Keep us informed as to how you go. Would be pretty sweet if it is as simple as a bad lift pump.

 

[kohl_cytre]

Just ensure you tighten up the bleed screw before trying to start it, without it being closed you may not have enough fuel pressure.
Keep us informed as to how you go. Would be pretty sweet if it is as simple as a bad lift pump.

Ok guys, I just got the boat primer and installed that in the fuel line just after the fuel filter. I pumped fuel up and through the existing fuel pump and tried the primer lever on the side of the pump and got nothing. I then took the fuel pump completely out of the picture and connected the outflow of the boat primer straight to the inflow of the injection pump. I opened the bleed cock and pumped fuel through till I could hear it returning to the fuel tank via the hose. I closed the bleed cock and pumped up the boat primer. I turned the engine over a few times with no results. So I cracked the injection lines where they connect to the top of the engine cylinders. I did not loosen the injector nozzles. I turned the engine over a few times and I'm getting fuel out of the top of the injector nozzle ports because of the return to fuel tank lines running inbetween them. I ran out of power in my jump pack so I had to quit for the night. I never saw vapor out the exhaust. I don't know if I'm not priming the injector pump properly, not turning the engine over enough or because I'm doing it by myself maybe I need to be pumping the boat primer the whole time. But anyway I figured I'd let everyone know what I tired tonight and maybe let me know if I missed a step, did something wrong or whatever. Let me know what the next step is and how I can test the injector pump and any other little tips. Thank you in advance!!

 

[kohl_cytre]

Ok guys, I just got the boat primer and installed that in the fuel line just after the fuel filter. I pumped fuel up and through the existing fuel pump and tried the primer lever on the side of the pump and got nothing. I then took the fuel pump completely out of the picture and connected the outflow of the boat primer straight to the inflow of the injection pump. I opened the bleed cock and pumped fuel through till I could hear it returning to the fuel tank via the hose. I closed the bleed cock and pumped up the boat primer. I turned the engine over a few times with no results. So I cracked the injection lines where they connect to the top of the engine cylinders. I did not loosen the injector nozzles. I turned the engine over a few times and I'm getting fuel out of the top of the injector nozzle ports because of the return to fuel tank lines running inbetween them. I ran out of power in my jump pack so I had to quit for the night. I never saw vapor out the exhaust. I don't know if I'm not priming the injector pump properly, not turning the engine over enough or because I'm doing it by myself maybe I need to be pumping the boat primer the whole time. But anyway I figured I'd let everyone know what I tired tonight and maybe let me know if I missed a step, did something wrong or whatever. Let me know what the next step is and how I can test the injector pump and any other little tips. Thank you in advance!!

I tired to start it again today, this time with help. The engine was turned over about 8 times while I was pumping the boat primer. I didn't see any vapor out of the exhaust. My jump pack died after that. Dunno what I'm doing wrong. Thanks.

 

[Bobcatdan]

I tired to start it again today, this time with help. The engine was turned over about 8 times while I was pumping the boat primer. I didn't see any vapor out of the exhaust. My jump pack died after that. Dunno what I'm doing wrong. Thanks.

Sounds like the fuel rack is stuck, I had one do that once.

 

[kohl_cytre]

Sounds like the fuel rack is stuck, I had one do that once.

How would I test that and fix the problem?

 

[kohl_cytre]

How would I test that and fix the problem?

I think tomorrow I'll try disconnecting the injector feed lines that go to the cylinders and see if there's any spray exiting the fuel injection pump. I don't know what else to try to test the injector pump. Maybe that will give a result. Has anyone ever tried the 1/2 gas, 1/2 diesel mixture in a spray bottle shot directly into the air intake to test an engine?

 

[Tazza]

I think tomorrow I'll try disconnecting the injector feed lines that go to the cylinders and see if there's any spray exiting the fuel injection pump. I don't know what else to try to test the injector pump. Maybe that will give a result. Has anyone ever tried the 1/2 gas, 1/2 diesel mixture in a spray bottle shot directly into the air intake to test an engine?

You are priming correctly, some times it does take a bit of cranking to get fuel to the injectors.
As for starting fluid, crank and give it a few snorts of WD40 in the intake. It should give a pop.
As you have never had it running, i'd pull the injectors out too. Make sure they are not stuck. If it has been sitting for some time, they can stick.
Keep the parts separate. Remove all the parts but note where they go, ensure the nozzle and plunger are free to move. It's very common for them to stick and you will get no fuel out.
If you remove the high pressure lines at the pump, crank the engine, fuel should well up on the delivery nozzles, there will not be a huge spray, just a small rise in the bubble of fuel.
As it has been sitting, i'd still pull the injectors and give them a clean. Dinmantle, make sure everything moves, clean in diesel or WD40 and blow down with compressed air. Re-assemble with diesel or WD40 and you hopefully will be good to go. I have done this before many times with excellent results. The plungers quite often get stuck, not sure why exactly, some can be a real pig to get free. Never strike the tip of the nozzle or it will break off. Hold the base of the plunger in a vice and lever the nozzle up if it is really stuck.

 

[kohl_cytre]

You are priming correctly, some times it does take a bit of cranking to get fuel to the injectors.
As for starting fluid, crank and give it a few snorts of WD40 in the intake. It should give a pop.
As you have never had it running, i'd pull the injectors out too. Make sure they are not stuck. If it has been sitting for some time, they can stick.
Keep the parts separate. Remove all the parts but note where they go, ensure the nozzle and plunger are free to move. It's very common for them to stick and you will get no fuel out.
If you remove the high pressure lines at the pump, crank the engine, fuel should well up on the delivery nozzles, there will not be a huge spray, just a small rise in the bubble of fuel.
As it has been sitting, i'd still pull the injectors and give them a clean. Dinmantle, make sure everything moves, clean in diesel or WD40 and blow down with compressed air. Re-assemble with diesel or WD40 and you hopefully will be good to go. I have done this before many times with excellent results. The plungers quite often get stuck, not sure why exactly, some can be a real pig to get free. Never strike the tip of the nozzle or it will break off. Hold the base of the plunger in a vice and lever the nozzle up if it is really stuck.

Thank you for the tips. I was playing with it today and installed a new fuel pump. After priming it and turning it over for some time I was getting some fuel swelling out of the nuts after I cracked them open. I sprayed some 50% diesel 50% gas from a spray bottle into the air intake and I did get a little vapor out of the exaust. After turning the engine over about 10 more times I was getting vapor out of the exhaust but the engine did not fire. Another thing I'm wondering about is the decompresson lever is almost impossible to move. Can that mean something is going on with the valves?

 

[Tazza]

Thank you for the tips. I was playing with it today and installed a new fuel pump. After priming it and turning it over for some time I was getting some fuel swelling out of the nuts after I cracked them open. I sprayed some 50% diesel 50% gas from a spray bottle into the air intake and I did get a little vapor out of the exaust. After turning the engine over about 10 more times I was getting vapor out of the exhaust but the engine did not fire. Another thing I'm wondering about is the decompresson lever is almost impossible to move. Can that mean something is going on with the valves?

Only cranking over 10 times really isn't enough, but at least you are getting some signs of compression.
As for the decompression lever, it could be the issue. If it is not adjusted right, it will lower your compression. From memory, if you remove the valve cover, the decompression stuff comes with it. They have screws that hold the exhaust valves slightly open.

 

[kohl_cytre]

Only cranking over 10 times really isn't enough, but at least you are getting some signs of compression.
As for the decompression lever, it could be the issue. If it is not adjusted right, it will lower your compression. From memory, if you remove the valve cover, the decompression stuff comes with it. They have screws that hold the exhaust valves slightly open.

I was cranking and cranking and started to get some white vapor. But the decompression lever has me worried. You can move the stupid thing without just about standing on it. I'll try disconnecting the fuel injector pump lines right at the pump tonight and see if I'm getting fuel out all 4 injector feed ports and I'll pull the injectors tonight. I'm starting to get frustraed.

 

[mahans7]

I was cranking and cranking and started to get some white vapor. But the decompression lever has me worried. You can move the stupid thing without just about standing on it. I'll try disconnecting the fuel injector pump lines right at the pump tonight and see if I'm getting fuel out all 4 injector feed ports and I'll pull the injectors tonight. I'm starting to get frustraed.

I've been watching your post and I feel like I'm watching a football game and I want you to win. Your in the 4th quarter now with just 1) checking the injector lines, 2) adjusting the decompression valve and 3) checking the injectors. Your almost there!

 

[Tazza]

I've been watching your post and I feel like I'm watching a football game and I want you to win. Your in the 4th quarter now with just 1) checking the injector lines, 2) adjusting the decompression valve and 3) checking the injectors. Your almost there!

I'd remove or wind back the decompression setup. It is not used in this machine, the starter is more than powerful enough to spin the engine fast enough to get it to start.
Get the injectors out, put them apart but keep their parts together. If you have any problems here, let me know and i'll try to give yo more detail of what to do to make sure they are free. Then if youa re getting fuel from the injector pump, you hook a tube line to the pump out the back, install an injector and crank, this is a quick go or no go test for the injectors. They should make a nice spray cone without any drips.