ok guys I bought a new holland l555 with a kubota v1902 about month ago. The machince starts hard when cold and also will not run above quater throtle and smokes to beat hell. I have tested the injectors. all were good and poped at 3200psi and had good spay. i have done a compression test, 400psi in all cylinders. i had the injection pump rebuilt. I bought and installed new mechanical pump, new fuel filter, new hydrolic filters and new hydrolic oil. The motor does have an electric fuel pump and is pumping fuel to beat hell. I have checked everything once, twice, probly 15times with the govener and all is intact. coolent is full and has not leaked any, not a head gasket. Any ideas............ :-l
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I too am stumped with this, i have been talking him through different things on email, but with the same results. The only thing left is the govenor. I guess anything is possible, it has engine oil pumped on it, but after it was sitting, its possible it froze up, that or someone has fiddled with the engine adjustment bolts.
Let's start with the hard starting. Have you removed the glow plugs and hooked them to a 12V source to see if they actually heat. Two different glow plugs have been used in these engines. The earlier ones you had to heat for @ 30 seconds. The later plugs you only use for 15 seconds. If you heat any longer than that at one time they potentially will burn out. Don't trust your voltmeter, take them out and supply 12V and ground to each one separately. The later ones will get red hot in about 8 seconds or less.
Reading your post you state you installed a new mechanical pump. It is unclear where you installed the pump. If it was hydraulic pump or fuel pump. Probably not a fuel pump since you have the electric pump.
Have you checked if the throttle lever is moving through the full range of its rotation. Those shafts have been know to seize where they go throught the engine housing.
With the smoking it sounds like a timing problem. The injection pump , I believe, is spill timed. Have you checked that. There are shims between the injection pump and the engine housing. Adding and removing the shims changes the timing.
Another thing you might try is supplying fuel to the electric pump from an external can with known good fuel. You never know what might have been in your fuel tank. A little gas in the tank will cause them to smoke pretty badly. This happens more than you might think. Don't take anything for granted.
Reading your post you state you installed a new mechanical pump. It is unclear where you installed the pump. If it was hydraulic pump or fuel pump. Probably not a fuel pump since you have the electric pump.
Have you checked if the throttle lever is moving through the full range of its rotation. Those shafts have been know to seize where they go throught the engine housing.
With the smoking it sounds like a timing problem. The injection pump , I believe, is spill timed. Have you checked that. There are shims between the injection pump and the engine housing. Adding and removing the shims changes the timing.
Another thing you might try is supplying fuel to the electric pump from an external can with known good fuel. You never know what might have been in your fuel tank. A little gas in the tank will cause them to smoke pretty badly. This happens more than you might think. Don't take anything for granted.
I have not removed glow plungs from motor... i installed a new electric fuel pump and hrdrolic pump, sorry, but yeah could have been the hydrolic pump being the diaframe was ripped on one inside the pump but wasnt the issue. i have checked the throttle lever several millions times and everything moves freely inside and outside (governever wise and throttle linkage wise) What is a spill time? I am new to diesels and getting to know them now (been reading ALOT online). As for the shimes, there are three really thin ones and three fatter ones. Tonight one at a time i started removing the three thinist ones one at a time and every shime gave her a little more throttle. I am curently down to the three fat shims and going to mess around with it more tomorrow. as for the fuel supply from a external can, tried that and she faild. I beleive my problem is timming now. Do you know of a good way to time these or do i need a special tool or something..... yeah as for the smoke its gone down ALOT since i removed the three sims but still smokes more then i would like it to and or should. i'm going to fill it up full or almost full with new diesel and run it once i get the shims right and see what happens three uness i get it timmed right and it takes care of it.........Let's start with the hard starting. Have you removed the glow plugs and hooked them to a 12V source to see if they actually heat. Two different glow plugs have been used in these engines. The earlier ones you had to heat for @ 30 seconds. The later plugs you only use for 15 seconds. If you heat any longer than that at one time they potentially will burn out. Don't trust your voltmeter, take them out and supply 12V and ground to each one separately. The later ones will get red hot in about 8 seconds or less.
Reading your post you state you installed a new mechanical pump. It is unclear where you installed the pump. If it was hydraulic pump or fuel pump. Probably not a fuel pump since you have the electric pump.
Have you checked if the throttle lever is moving through the full range of its rotation. Those shafts have been know to seize where they go throught the engine housing.
With the smoking it sounds like a timing problem. The injection pump , I believe, is spill timed. Have you checked that. There are shims between the injection pump and the engine housing. Adding and removing the shims changes the timing.
Another thing you might try is supplying fuel to the electric pump from an external can with known good fuel. You never know what might have been in your fuel tank. A little gas in the tank will cause them to smoke pretty badly. This happens more than you might think. Don't take anything for granted.
From the service manual.I have not removed glow plungs from motor... i installed a new electric fuel pump and hrdrolic pump, sorry, but yeah could have been the hydrolic pump being the diaframe was ripped on one inside the pump but wasnt the issue. i have checked the throttle lever several millions times and everything moves freely inside and outside (governever wise and throttle linkage wise) What is a spill time? I am new to diesels and getting to know them now (been reading ALOT online). As for the shimes, there are three really thin ones and three fatter ones. Tonight one at a time i started removing the three thinist ones one at a time and every shime gave her a little more throttle. I am curently down to the three fat shims and going to mess around with it more tomorrow. as for the fuel supply from a external can, tried that and she faild. I beleive my problem is timming now. Do you know of a good way to time these or do i need a special tool or something..... yeah as for the smoke its gone down ALOT since i removed the three sims but still smokes more then i would like it to and or should. i'm going to fill it up full or almost full with new diesel and run it once i get the shims right and see what happens three uness i get it timmed right and it takes care of it.........
1 Disconnect the injection pipe from the fuel injection pump
2 Set the acceleration lever for maximum fuel discharge
3 Turn the flywheel until fuel jets out from the delivery valve holder of the fuel injection pump.
4 Turn the flywheel so the F1 mark on its side appears in the lower part of the timing check window in the flywheel housing.
5 Continue to turn the flywheel slowly, and stop it as soon as the fuel level at the tip of the valve holder begins to increase.
6 Check to see if the F1 mark on the flywheel is aligned with the timing check window.
7 If the timing is out of adjustment, readjust with shims. Adding or removing one shim .0059" varies the crank angle by @ 1.5 degree. Flywheel rotation in relationship to 1.5 degree of crankshaft ange movement is @ .0906" as measured at its outer circumference. After adjustment apply a thin film of liquid packing to both sides of the shims.
Reference value 23 to 25 degrees before TDC.
To clarify some of the above. Remove the number 1 fuel injection line and check the fuel flow from this delivery valve.
I believe there is a timing hole cover on the side of the bell housing on the injection pump side of the engine.
F1 is stamped into the flywheel and should align with a pointer in the hole.
I would think you turn the crankshaft in the direction of rotation when running.
The information is not entirely clear, so you may need to experiment to determine how to turn and when to turn the engine.
The instructions are on page 118 in my service manual. If yours is different there should be a section on adjusting injection timing.
thanks but didnt get a service manaul with the skidloader when i bought it kinda sucksFrom the service manual.
1 Disconnect the injection pipe from the fuel injection pump
2 Set the acceleration lever for maximum fuel discharge
3 Turn the flywheel until fuel jets out from the delivery valve holder of the fuel injection pump.
4 Turn the flywheel so the F1 mark on its side appears in the lower part of the timing check window in the flywheel housing.
5 Continue to turn the flywheel slowly, and stop it as soon as the fuel level at the tip of the valve holder begins to increase.
6 Check to see if the F1 mark on the flywheel is aligned with the timing check window.
7 If the timing is out of adjustment, readjust with shims. Adding or removing one shim .0059" varies the crank angle by @ 1.5 degree. Flywheel rotation in relationship to 1.5 degree of crankshaft ange movement is @ .0906" as measured at its outer circumference. After adjustment apply a thin film of liquid packing to both sides of the shims.
Reference value 23 to 25 degrees before TDC.
To clarify some of the above. Remove the number 1 fuel injection line and check the fuel flow from this delivery valve.
I believe there is a timing hole cover on the side of the bell housing on the injection pump side of the engine.
F1 is stamped into the flywheel and should align with a pointer in the hole.
I would think you turn the crankshaft in the direction of rotation when running.
The information is not entirely clear, so you may need to experiment to determine how to turn and when to turn the engine.
The instructions are on page 118 in my service manual. If yours is different there should be a section on adjusting injection timing.
Will it sit and run if you don't move the throttle lever?thanks but didnt get a service manaul with the skidloader when i bought it kinda sucks
yeah, i got it to run much better now, i removed all the shims from under the injections pump and now it starts fine cold and throtles up to full throtle... but when shes cold she'll start right up but smokes a for about 30sec then clears up but still smokes a little. 400 psi was the compression on each cyl. oild level never changes, think the injection pump can could be wore out a little and still a little out of time???Will it sit and run if you don't move the throttle lever?
Mine smokes alot also on startup, but the oil level stays the same.yeah, i got it to run much better now, i removed all the shims from under the injections pump and now it starts fine cold and throtles up to full throtle... but when shes cold she'll start right up but smokes a for about 30sec then clears up but still smokes a little. 400 psi was the compression on each cyl. oild level never changes, think the injection pump can could be wore out a little and still a little out of time???
ok,yeah going to change oil and filter this weekend and give it a good run, i have only drove it around the yard for like 10min and got it warm but want to make it work. hopfully some snow will come soon cause everything is frozen right nowMine smokes alot also on startup, but the oil level stays the same.
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