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Help Support SkidSteer Forum:
tac, Great to hear that you got it done. I need to do it on mine but I haven't come up with the time to get started. Did you take the cab off and hydraulic pump to access the drive chain and sprocket? Also did you have to have any special tools to complete the job. Tazza has been helping me with information but I am afraid that I might get it apart and not back together. Are you an experienced mechanic or a novice with the 743 repair manual and the will to get it done!!
Glad you got it done. I'm interested in details of how you did it too. The way i did it took me maybe 3 hours but as i said earlier it was in pieces so access was really easy. I still managed to cut my hands up, how did you go with the sharp bits on the sprockets?tac, Great to hear that you got it done. I need to do it on mine but I haven't come up with the time to get started. Did you take the cab off and hydraulic pump to access the drive chain and sprocket? Also did you have to have any special tools to complete the job. Tazza has been helping me with information but I am afraid that I might get it apart and not back together. Are you an experienced mechanic or a novice with the 743 repair manual and the will to get it done!!
How was the condition of the axle were the lip of the seal rides , did you use wear sleeves , a exhaust pipe adaptor works well install the wear sleevesGlad you got it done. I'm interested in details of how you did it too. The way i did it took me maybe 3 hours but as i said earlier it was in pieces so access was really easy. I still managed to cut my hands up, how did you go with the sharp bits on the sprockets?
Heres some answers, First off yes I worked for yrs as an auto machanic, Here is some info on how i proceded, Removed the levers, and sheet metal, Then removed the Pump. Then onto the two top covers, Jacked it on stands, tires off, unbolt inner axle nut. Held wrench on bolt and used six ft square bar placed between lugs nuts, Broke free no problem, Next I used a Auto Body porta-power to remove axle. This was used between the frame and axle. came right out. cut off the bearings and race with a die grinder, Replaced wear ring, placed seal on axle, then pressed bearing onto axle. This are zero cleance fit, so cold axle, and warm bearing help here. Now for the tricky part, Remove and replace inner race, Place the new inner bearing in, and Someone needs to hold the gear, and the chain, up in place while you slid the axle in. Get it just started, I used a bolt a lilttle longer to grap the axle. Just start it but dont let the seal hit the housing yet. Next, I made the seal tool, Easy job, Cut two old races in half. I welded them together, You will have two races stacked, and cut in half, the cone side goes to the axle to clear the axle weld, the Flat side to the bearing, electric taped held the halves. Now as you hold the axle in place, and guide it, you helper tightens the nut. This will pull in the seal and seat the inner bearing. Once the seal is flush to the housing, I removed the longer bolt, and replaced it with the orig. Again hold the bolt, and get the six foot bar, spin the axle. You can feel eveything seat, Then crank it tight. The spockets on my machine were not worn, and not sharp at all. Be peparpared thou, It is a Great time to change some hoses, and Gear reduction Bearings, Hard job? Depends on you. A pain in the XXXXX yeap. two person for the most part. Hope that helps. Let me know I will offer any help I can. PS i do have the Manuel, Tac
I did toy with using an old race cut in half too but it just didn't want to work too well for me so i built the rite tool if tape doesn't work get a large worm drive hose clamp to hold the pieces together. The spacing given by the race was pretty well spot on too. The only thing i did different was use a large copper hammer to seat the seal by hitting the axle hub as i took up the slack from the inside. I did use a longer bolt too but beware when doing this when the other side has been done, when the seal is seated there may not be enough room to get the old bolt out and the correct one in! been there done that!!!!Heres some answers, First off yes I worked for yrs as an auto machanic, Here is some info on how i proceded, Removed the levers, and sheet metal, Then removed the Pump. Then onto the two top covers, Jacked it on stands, tires off, unbolt inner axle nut. Held wrench on bolt and used six ft square bar placed between lugs nuts, Broke free no problem, Next I used a Auto Body porta-power to remove axle. This was used between the frame and axle. came right out. cut off the bearings and race with a die grinder, Replaced wear ring, placed seal on axle, then pressed bearing onto axle. This are zero cleance fit, so cold axle, and warm bearing help here. Now for the tricky part, Remove and replace inner race, Place the new inner bearing in, and Someone needs to hold the gear, and the chain, up in place while you slid the axle in. Get it just started, I used a bolt a lilttle longer to grap the axle. Just start it but dont let the seal hit the housing yet. Next, I made the seal tool, Easy job, Cut two old races in half. I welded them together, You will have two races stacked, and cut in half, the cone side goes to the axle to clear the axle weld, the Flat side to the bearing, electric taped held the halves. Now as you hold the axle in place, and guide it, you helper tightens the nut. This will pull in the seal and seat the inner bearing. Once the seal is flush to the housing, I removed the longer bolt, and replaced it with the orig. Again hold the bolt, and get the six foot bar, spin the axle. You can feel eveything seat, Then crank it tight. The spockets on my machine were not worn, and not sharp at all. Be peparpared thou, It is a Great time to change some hoses, and Gear reduction Bearings, Hard job? Depends on you. A pain in the XXXXX yeap. two person for the most part. Hope that helps. Let me know I will offer any help I can. PS i do have the Manuel, Tac
As for pulling the axle out, i used a 2 1/2 tonne bottle jack on its side with the pump section facing down so it got oil and pushed them out that way. A porta power would be good if you have access to one, but if not a bottle jack will also work.
Removing the old bearings can also be done by welding to the taper and using an air chisel to push it forwards. Grinding will also work but this was pretty fast too. The extra heat from the welding would have helped expand the race to let it come free. The wear ring can be removed with a coal chisel, these are very thin and move easily. I didn't have access to a press so i used a length of water pipe (clean of course) and used a hammer to seat the wear ring and bearing.
One thing you should do when you get the axles back in is to check for end float. I had to take .005" off one washer to take out the play. The other 3 were spot on.
I agree to take the time to change hoses and any other parts when you are in there, especially where the arm pivots on the chain case. Its a small part that will save you a lot of trouble later.