How would I fix a stuck valve?
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It may be at the point that you will need to do a compression test. No sense pulling the head to check/machine the ehad to fix the valves. As the ether is not starting it, or even trying to, it does sound like the compression is low. I was thinking it was possible the injection timing was off, but the ether wouldn't care about that.
Do you know how its all timed? gears or a belt? If its a belt, the cam shaft may be out of sync with the bottom end. Its a big MAY.
Sadly, it may soon be time to pull the engine and remove the head and check/replace the rings and get the head checked to ensure the galves are sealing correctly.\
If you have valve clearances, it may be an idea to check they are still right. If they are too small, it may be opening too early and not gining the correct compression.
It would make more sense for me to get a compression tester and check it but i just dont want to buy one because this is my first and hopefully last diesel il work on. I think the injection pump is belt. I could just pull the head and see what i find if it all trashed there is no need to go any further and if its a stuck valve i can maybe free it up or buy new. Will i be able to tell if the rings are stuck with the head off? I know how to adjust the valves i just cant find anywhere that tells me the clearances... When there is no load on the valves i can wiggle the rocker arms pretty well. i dont know if thats just how diesel is or what..
when you had the injectors out did you squirt lube oil in each cyl ? don't know how much it would help but it does bring up compression on gas engines if there is ring problem.
With the head off you can see the condition of the valves, but not the rings. For that you will need to pull the pistons out.
If you are going to go that far, you raelly need more details on the engine. Bore size so you can measure it to see if its still in spec, ring eng gap to see if they are too worn. Valve clearance so you know what to set them to after you put the head back on.
Don't be too hard on diesels, when you understand how they work, you will like them. I was the same, i really didn't want a diesel as they were unknown. Now i have a far better understanding of how they work, i like them more. Very simple, no ignition to worry about. More power, and they last longer if maintained correctly.
So.... i messed with it more today and was getting frustrated. i covered the exhaust with my hand to find this motor is totaly week and im sick of guessing. I have decided im going to pull the motor out and move it into my shed where i can better work on it in the heat. I have been trying to find specs on the ring gaps and valve clearances with no luck. Il probably have to buy a service manual. If the motor is totally junk i may have a backup motor that my friends work has that they just scrap and they run. im just waiting on a donor so its not all bad if i screw this one up on accident. So i feel a little better
Working on it in the shop is far better.
Sounds like a goos plan if you can get hold of a good runner, especially if the price is right.
Yea it is nice. A lot more room. I'm going to pull the head and see what I find. I'm going to push towards fixing this motor until they get one at my friends work. Anything else I should check while I'm. Inside?
With the head off, check the head/valves. Bore wear, piston and ring wear. Centre mains and big ends too. Just in general, check it all out, look for anything obvious.
okay i will open it up monday and post some pictures of what i find. I can only get so far until i get a service manual.
Well here we go... The cylinders have some build up on the walls. Alot of junk fell on top of the pistons when i pulled the gasket off. The intake and exhaust valves are a definitely a big problem with the starting. #1 the ports are all junked up. i honestly think i pulled out a mouse carcass out of one of the intake ports. turned it on its side and filled the ports with marvel mystery oil to loosen up more of the junk on the port walls. #2 the oil started coming through the valves as if they are not seating right. Not all of them i think 3. I put about a 1/4 inch of the mystery oil in each cylinder to see if the oil is gone by the morning on any of them. I donk know iff it should be or not? But I'm sure it will be. The valves may explain the no start but i was still getting smoke from the crank case. Ive been told if i can get it to fire and build heat the rings should unstuck and be fine. I want to avoid pulling the pistons unless im sure i have to. Even if i had a compression tester it would have read low compression with the valves not seating. i guess i can take care of the valves and get your guys input on where to go from there. i checked the glow plugs again and all 4 work i must have not had a good compression when i tested them before Another question what can i use to scrub the cylinder walls?
the pictures wont show. i dont know how to post them the right way
Can you e-mail me a copy?
Rings will not always free up when it warms up, the best way is to remove the pistons and un-stick them. If you want to leave them and see how you go, that's fine too, they could be fine.
You will need to get the head done so the valves seat correctly. You could possibly use the old head gasket just so you can warm it up and see how the rings go. But you will need to change it out later though. Its just a way to possibly save you an extra gasket is all. I'd advise you leave the radiator cap off during the test, it will not build up pressure and allow the possiblilty of letting coolant into the cylinders from a leaky head gasket.
check with your local auto parts store to rent a ridge reamer and a flexible hone to clean the cylinders. I wouldn't think the bores would have build up on them but certainly a ridge at the top. put it on its side so the least amount of grit gets down around the pistons. If you have the head off and are taking out the ridge it wouldn't be much more work to take the pistons out and clean them up too. just match mark everything if you do.
I removed the ridge on a Kubota i got off ebay years ago with a die grinder and what they call spyro bands over here. They are like sandpaper in rings that you slide over a rubber adaptor to hold them in. Just go slowly and only as far as the ridge, any lower and this is where the rings seat. Not as acurate as a propper ridge remover though, but its what i had access to. That engine ran better than any other that i did up properly too..... Started without even glowing.
It wouldn't hurt to measure the bores too, if they are too worn, its really not worth you going too much further without looking up prices for over sized pistons/rings and machine work.