How much time required to hammer pool?

Help Support SkidSteer Forum:

mikeprince

Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2012
Messages
10
I'm removing my gunite swimming pool, and have already dug a ramp from the outside to the shallow end of the pool. All I need now is for someone with a hammer to punch through the wall and break up the bottom/lower-half of the pool. I'll remove all the concrete once it's broken up. How much time should someone with an excavator or skid steer with a hammer take to punch through the wall, and hammer up the entire bottom of the pool? ("bottom" means everything lower than 4 feet from the top of the pool) I'm guessing from a few hours to a full day. Also how much would someone normally charge for one day of hammer work, assuming they supply the equipment? The reason I'm not hammering it myself is that I don't have a hammer, and don't want to have to rent one and then learn while I'm on the clock. A skilled operator can probably do it much faster than me.
 
OP
OP
M

mikeprince

Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2012
Messages
10
NO HELP HERE MECHANIC NOT AN OPERATOR BUT I JUST PUT IN A POOL WHY ARE YOU TAKING YOURES OUT.
I never use it and the last time we had it filled was five years ago. Two young kids now mean its just a big liability. And each time we did fill it years ago I was the one who did all the maintenance, and everybody else did the occasional swimming. Now I can free up some space in the back yard for a nice play area for the kids.
 

Tazza

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Dec 7, 2004
Messages
16,835
I never use it and the last time we had it filled was five years ago. Two young kids now mean its just a big liability. And each time we did fill it years ago I was the one who did all the maintenance, and everybody else did the occasional swimming. Now I can free up some space in the back yard for a nice play area for the kids.
Not sure if it helps or not, but you may not need to remove the entire pool. I was sure there was a member on here that used to do this. He busted holes in the base big enough to let water out, then filled it in. As long as any water that collects in there can escape, it shouldn't turn into a big bog.
I have no idea what the building regulations are over there, you may not be allowed to just fill it in without removing all the concrete. Over here some people don't much care and just fill it in anyway....
Even if you did rent a hammer and took the time to learn, i think you would be ahead. An operator, even if it hook him 2 hours with a mini exc. He would probably have a minimum charge to come to the site anyway. You can put that cash towards renting a hammer for a day or two.
 
OP
OP
M

mikeprince

Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2012
Messages
10
Not sure if it helps or not, but you may not need to remove the entire pool. I was sure there was a member on here that used to do this. He busted holes in the base big enough to let water out, then filled it in. As long as any water that collects in there can escape, it shouldn't turn into a big bog.
I have no idea what the building regulations are over there, you may not be allowed to just fill it in without removing all the concrete. Over here some people don't much care and just fill it in anyway....
Even if you did rent a hammer and took the time to learn, i think you would be ahead. An operator, even if it hook him 2 hours with a mini exc. He would probably have a minimum charge to come to the site anyway. You can put that cash towards renting a hammer for a day or two.
Your 100% right about not needing to remove the whole pool. The local planning department couldn't care less, and the two required inspections are to ensure there's a hole at the bottom for drainage, and then again after completion to make sure the pool was filled in. There's a different kind of permit that I didn't pull, that requires a soils engineer to sign-off that the dirt was compacted 95%+ during fill. Perhaps I'm going overboard, but i want the pool completely removed to there's no hidden surprises later on down the road for anybody.
 

Tazza

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Dec 7, 2004
Messages
16,835
Your 100% right about not needing to remove the whole pool. The local planning department couldn't care less, and the two required inspections are to ensure there's a hole at the bottom for drainage, and then again after completion to make sure the pool was filled in. There's a different kind of permit that I didn't pull, that requires a soils engineer to sign-off that the dirt was compacted 95%+ during fill. Perhaps I'm going overboard, but i want the pool completely removed to there's no hidden surprises later on down the road for anybody.
I know what you mean, if it's all gone, you don't have any issues if you need to dig there later.
Hopefully someone will chime in that has done this before.
 

KarlB

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 5, 2011
Messages
62
I know what you mean, if it's all gone, you don't have any issues if you need to dig there later.
Hopefully someone will chime in that has done this before.
I can't imagine gunite on a pool is that thick. Having busted up driveways and steps with a rotary hammer in not much time, I don't think it will need much. Although if it has steel reinforcement in it (likely), you're in for fun.
...karl
 

wright const

Active member
Joined
Jan 1, 2010
Messages
33
I can't imagine gunite on a pool is that thick. Having busted up driveways and steps with a rotary hammer in not much time, I don't think it will need much. Although if it has steel reinforcement in it (likely), you're in for fun.
...karl
Punch holes in the bottom about 16'' x 16'' .I punch about 10 or so, put 3/4 stone around holes with a fabric to keep them from clogging with silt . Knock sides in about 2 ' down and fill away.
 
OP
OP
M

mikeprince

Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2012
Messages
10
I can't imagine gunite on a pool is that thick. Having busted up driveways and steps with a rotary hammer in not much time, I don't think it will need much. Although if it has steel reinforcement in it (likely), you're in for fun.
...karl
UPDATE I ended up renting a Deere 317 with a 500lb hammer to break out the entire bottom of the pool, everything 5 feet below waterline and lower for the 10 ft deep pool. I also had to punch through one of the shallow end walls. This was the first time I have run a hammer and it took 10 hours of seat time. The pool was between 6in and 18in thick, with plenty of rebar. I paid someone else to hammer out the upper half after I had removed all the concrete and filled and compacted the lower half with soil. The guy I hired tried to use a 753 with a 350lb hammer and it didn't break very well compared to the set-up I had used. This guy took about another 10 hours to hammer out the rest.
 

Tazza

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Dec 7, 2004
Messages
16,835
UPDATE I ended up renting a Deere 317 with a 500lb hammer to break out the entire bottom of the pool, everything 5 feet below waterline and lower for the 10 ft deep pool. I also had to punch through one of the shallow end walls. This was the first time I have run a hammer and it took 10 hours of seat time. The pool was between 6in and 18in thick, with plenty of rebar. I paid someone else to hammer out the upper half after I had removed all the concrete and filled and compacted the lower half with soil. The guy I hired tried to use a 753 with a 350lb hammer and it didn't break very well compared to the set-up I had used. This guy took about another 10 hours to hammer out the rest.
Wow, never thought it would have been so thick, you made the right choice on machine then.
 

mahans7

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 22, 2012
Messages
317
Wow, never thought it would have been so thick, you made the right choice on machine then.
My son/nephew and I jack hammered out a 20 X 30 foot section of my broken up driveway last winter using an electric jack hammer rented from Home Depot. The concrete was 4 to 14 inches and it took 2 whole days. Never again, I'll rent a hammer attachment next time now that I know it exists. Thanks again guys.
 
Top