How do you set the gap for Points?

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cchardwick

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Jan 25, 2007
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I'm going through my 1974 skid steer (Case 1737) and replacing just about everything, hoses, belts, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, condensor, points, etc.. It's been many years since I last messed with a distributor that used points. Does anyone know how to set the gap? I'm thinking you have to have the number one piston at top dead center and then adjust it with a feeler gauge, is that right? If so, how do you get the number one at TDC? Which one is number one? It's a four cylinder gas engine.
 
To set the gap just bump the engine over until the distributor cam is at the any of the high points and set the gap with a feeler gage.
 
To set the gap just bump the engine over until the distributor cam is at the any of the high points and set the gap with a feeler gage.
If you are going to all the trouble of adjusting everything remember to change the plugs and leads. While you are at it, if its not running rite you may want to change the distriubutor cap and rotor button. Then you will know the ignition side is all perfect and will not need to be fiddled with again for a while.
 
If you are going to all the trouble of adjusting everything remember to change the plugs and leads. While you are at it, if its not running rite you may want to change the distriubutor cap and rotor button. Then you will know the ignition side is all perfect and will not need to be fiddled with again for a while.
Isn't the condensor and points just under the rotor on top of the distributor? I can't see it, there's just a metal plate below the rotor and I can't seem to take it off. Where are the points and condensor? I did decide to replace the cap, rotor, plugs, wires, belts, and hoses. Check out how bad the sparkplugs were: http://www.capsandstems.com/ed/1737_plugs.htm I think this machine has all original parts since it only has 1100 hours after 33 years WOW:
 
Isn't the condensor and points just under the rotor on top of the distributor? I can't see it, there's just a metal plate below the rotor and I can't seem to take it off. Where are the points and condensor? I did decide to replace the cap, rotor, plugs, wires, belts, and hoses. Check out how bad the sparkplugs were: http://www.capsandstems.com/ed/1737_plugs.htm I think this machine has all original parts since it only has 1100 hours after 33 years WOW:
The points i thought would be under the rotor button too.
Those plugs look a tad worn. The gap looks huge.
 
The points i thought would be under the rotor button too.
Those plugs look a tad worn. The gap looks huge.
The plug gap actually looks pretty small in real life, I think the photo enlarges it. I didn't set the gap on the new plugs cause I'm not sure what it's supposed to be, but the new gap looked the same as the gap in the old plugs so I'm assuming they are factory set. Surely there has to be points somewhere, right? It can't run without points unless its electronic ignition and for a 1974 machine I wouldn't think it would be electronic.
 
The plug gap actually looks pretty small in real life, I think the photo enlarges it. I didn't set the gap on the new plugs cause I'm not sure what it's supposed to be, but the new gap looked the same as the gap in the old plugs so I'm assuming they are factory set. Surely there has to be points somewhere, right? It can't run without points unless its electronic ignition and for a 1974 machine I wouldn't think it would be electronic.
Post us a picture of the distributor to see if we can figure out how to get to the points. I'm assuming they sold you a set of points when you bought yours parts so they have to be there somewhere.
 
Post us a picture of the distributor to see if we can figure out how to get to the points. I'm assuming they sold you a set of points when you bought yours parts so they have to be there somewhere.
cars went electronic in 74 or 75 could be... does it have a ballast resistor in the power lead to the coil if it does youve got points Jeff
 
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