High pressure hose question

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1fatcat

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Jul 24, 2005
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I have a leak in one of the high pressure hoses comming from the pump to the control block for the boom and bucket cylinders. I'm wondering if a factory replacement hose is the only option or if I can take the hose to a hydrolic shop and have them either replace the hose and salvage the fittings or make a new one with new fittings? And if I can have it repaired, does anyone know of a good hydrolic shop near the twin cities, MN? Thanks.
 

Tazza

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You most defiantly can get replacement hoses made by any hydraulics place. As long as they replace it with the same pressure rating hose (which i am sure they will). As for the old couplings, i would doubt that they would have used re-useable fittings but you never know, this may save you a bit more.
Get a price from bobcat first, then take the hose in and see what price they want to make one for you. Remember to clean the area before removing the hose and plug the hydraulic fittings to prevent getting dirt in the system and stop oil going everywhere.
I was lucky, i knew a guy that was a part owner of a hydraulic repair place, i got about 32 hoses off him for next to nothing, i would shudder to think of how much bobcat would want for the same ones!
 

sterlclan

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You most defiantly can get replacement hoses made by any hydraulics place. As long as they replace it with the same pressure rating hose (which i am sure they will). As for the old couplings, i would doubt that they would have used re-useable fittings but you never know, this may save you a bit more.
Get a price from bobcat first, then take the hose in and see what price they want to make one for you. Remember to clean the area before removing the hose and plug the hydraulic fittings to prevent getting dirt in the system and stop oil going everywhere.
I was lucky, i knew a guy that was a part owner of a hydraulic repair place, i got about 32 hoses off him for next to nothing, i would shudder to think of how much bobcat would want for the same ones!
we get ours at our local NAPA store way cheaper than cat or bobcat for that matter
 
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1fatcat

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we get ours at our local NAPA store way cheaper than cat or bobcat for that matter
I was actually thinking of going to the local napa just because they are close and cheaper, but wondering how well they hold up over a stock replacement hose? I don't use my machine for an income, it is just a weekend warrior.
 
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1fatcat

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I was actually thinking of going to the local napa just because they are close and cheaper, but wondering how well they hold up over a stock replacement hose? I don't use my machine for an income, it is just a weekend warrior.
BTW, sorry for not mentioning this, my machine is an L785 new holland....I doubt it matters though for a hose?
 

Tazza

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BTW, sorry for not mentioning this, my machine is an L785 new holland....I doubt it matters though for a hose?
It won't matter what brand machine it is for, hydraulic hoses are hydraulic hoses.
As for quality, the custom made hose will be as good if not better than the genuine one, it all depends on what the quality of the actual hose they use, but i am sure they will use what the feel will be best suited to the job.
 

StuZ

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It won't matter what brand machine it is for, hydraulic hoses are hydraulic hoses.
As for quality, the custom made hose will be as good if not better than the genuine one, it all depends on what the quality of the actual hose they use, but i am sure they will use what the feel will be best suited to the job.
I have made a few hoses before, and there are ways anyone can screw them up. NAPA people generally have good machines, but the crimp on a hose is no different than how tight you tighten a hose clamp. Too loose it leaks, too tight it leaks. Here are a couple do's and don'ts Never put a new end on an old hose, it doesn't matter if your time is free, it just isn't worth it. If you are going to crimp a hose end on a hose, make sure it is at least "2 wire" hose vs 1 wire or braided hose. The reinforment of 2 wire hose is needed for anything above 1200 psi. Most cases metal tubes are used because they are cheaper to make, but there are cases where they are needed because you can retain them better, or because of heat passing them by. If you ever have to replace a hose between the hydro pump and motor, better go with OEM hose.
 
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1fatcat

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I have made a few hoses before, and there are ways anyone can screw them up. NAPA people generally have good machines, but the crimp on a hose is no different than how tight you tighten a hose clamp. Too loose it leaks, too tight it leaks. Here are a couple do's and don'ts Never put a new end on an old hose, it doesn't matter if your time is free, it just isn't worth it. If you are going to crimp a hose end on a hose, make sure it is at least "2 wire" hose vs 1 wire or braided hose. The reinforment of 2 wire hose is needed for anything above 1200 psi. Most cases metal tubes are used because they are cheaper to make, but there are cases where they are needed because you can retain them better, or because of heat passing them by. If you ever have to replace a hose between the hydro pump and motor, better go with OEM hose.
Holy mother of GOD! That fitting was TIGHT!!! I had to use a come-a-long on the end of a 12 inch cressent wrench to get it loose! I would have used a longer wrench, but there was no extra room for it. Anyways, I did get it off and I'm taking it to the local NAPA tomorrow morning to get a replacement made. Thanks for the input everyone! :)
 

Tazza

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Holy mother of GOD! That fitting was TIGHT!!! I had to use a come-a-long on the end of a 12 inch cressent wrench to get it loose! I would have used a longer wrench, but there was no extra room for it. Anyways, I did get it off and I'm taking it to the local NAPA tomorrow morning to get a replacement made. Thanks for the input everyone! :)
Sounds like when i removed a hose from the hydrostatic pump, i used a LARGE shifting spanner attached to a 1m length of water pipe. Some swine used loctight on it! i can tell you there were a few nasty words directed at the poor hydraulic hose for not letting the nut go.
 
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1fatcat

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Sounds like when i removed a hose from the hydrostatic pump, i used a LARGE shifting spanner attached to a 1m length of water pipe. Some swine used loctight on it! i can tell you there were a few nasty words directed at the poor hydraulic hose for not letting the nut go.
Well, I put the replacement on and it seems to leak worse than the original! I'm not 100% sure that it is the new hose leaking or if it is comming from somewhere else. It's a pretty tight spot to see and the leak is only occuring when the hydraulics are opperated...does not leak at idle, it just drips a couple drops and then stops. It seems unlikely that the new one would leak and more likely that I'm overlooking the REAL leak, but I can see it dripping right where the rubber hose and the crimp of the fitting join. The drip is "uphill" of the threaded flare connection so I realy don't think it is comming from the flare connection. Well, I have access to oil dye and a black light through work and I'm thinking of putting some dye in it to realy pinpoint the leak. Any objections to this?....other than that I will probably find many more small leaks that I didn't want to find? ;)
 

Tazza

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Well, I put the replacement on and it seems to leak worse than the original! I'm not 100% sure that it is the new hose leaking or if it is comming from somewhere else. It's a pretty tight spot to see and the leak is only occuring when the hydraulics are opperated...does not leak at idle, it just drips a couple drops and then stops. It seems unlikely that the new one would leak and more likely that I'm overlooking the REAL leak, but I can see it dripping right where the rubber hose and the crimp of the fitting join. The drip is "uphill" of the threaded flare connection so I realy don't think it is comming from the flare connection. Well, I have access to oil dye and a black light through work and I'm thinking of putting some dye in it to realy pinpoint the leak. Any objections to this?....other than that I will probably find many more small leaks that I didn't want to find? ;)

What does this hose connect to where it leaks? is it a fitting on the control block? if it is, these fittings are sealed with an O ring. Remove the hose and the fitting from the block, replace the O ring, oil it up before re-fitting it. Screw it back to the angle that it was, then tighten the lock nut behind it to squash up the O ring to seal it. Hopefully that is all it is. If it is worse than before i would bet that you have loosened it while replacing the hose without knowing it.
I know it is murder to try and get into these tight spaces and swing a spanner, i have been there many times before!
As for dye in the oil, i wouldn't bother, clean the area with de-greaser, run the machine then look for the wet spots.
Good luck!
 
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1fatcat

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What does this hose connect to where it leaks? is it a fitting on the control block? if it is, these fittings are sealed with an O ring. Remove the hose and the fitting from the block, replace the O ring, oil it up before re-fitting it. Screw it back to the angle that it was, then tighten the lock nut behind it to squash up the O ring to seal it. Hopefully that is all it is. If it is worse than before i would bet that you have loosened it while replacing the hose without knowing it.
I know it is murder to try and get into these tight spaces and swing a spanner, i have been there many times before!
As for dye in the oil, i wouldn't bother, clean the area with de-greaser, run the machine then look for the wet spots.
Good luck!
There are no o-rings, this is a flare conection...just like a brake line on a car. Bobcat may use o-rings here (I don't know) but this machine is a New Holland. The hose is the high pressure hose running from the gear pump at the front of the hydro pump to a steel pipe that continues on to a valve block. The drips are comming from the connection between the hose and the steel pipe, but the drips are "uphill" of the threaded flare connection. Also, this is the same end of the hose that was leaking with the original hose so I'm not so sure that it is still the hose. I'm thinking it is something else that is spraying onto this area? It is in an extreamly tight spot to visually inspect, plus it will only actually "leak" durring hydraulic opperation and I'm all alone to find this leak (can't have someone else run the hydros while I look......not that I'd want to even if I could!). I'm realy leaning towards the dye and black light as long as there is no harm to the machine in doing so?
 

Tazza

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There are no o-rings, this is a flare conection...just like a brake line on a car. Bobcat may use o-rings here (I don't know) but this machine is a New Holland. The hose is the high pressure hose running from the gear pump at the front of the hydro pump to a steel pipe that continues on to a valve block. The drips are comming from the connection between the hose and the steel pipe, but the drips are "uphill" of the threaded flare connection. Also, this is the same end of the hose that was leaking with the original hose so I'm not so sure that it is still the hose. I'm thinking it is something else that is spraying onto this area? It is in an extreamly tight spot to visually inspect, plus it will only actually "leak" durring hydraulic opperation and I'm all alone to find this leak (can't have someone else run the hydros while I look......not that I'd want to even if I could!). I'm realy leaning towards the dye and black light as long as there is no harm to the machine in doing so?
Its worth a try, but check with a hydraulics place before you do, i'm sure it won't harm the hydrostatic/hydraulic system, but make sure first!
 

Eric

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Its worth a try, but check with a hydraulics place before you do, i'm sure it won't harm the hydrostatic/hydraulic system, but make sure first!
The flared end on the metal line may be cracked. Just a thought.
 
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