help!!!!!!! broke off glow plug!!!!!!!!!!!

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daved

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I finally got my new glow plugs in so I went out to change them. 2 of them broke off a 1/2 inch above the head. I soaked them down with penetrating oil and tapped on them for an hour before I tried breaking them loose and they still did this. Now what the F%$# am I going to do with this motha. EZ-out? Dynomite? Any good Ideas guys? I dont want to pull the head but I guess If I have to. Thanks guys
 
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daved

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oh yah If I do have to pull the head what all am I looking at doing? It looks like I can pull it without removing engine but can it be done? What about injectors do they have to go or can I leave them in? I guess Its about time to buy a manual for this.Thanks again as I will be needing the support from you guys on this one.
 

Kilroy2k1

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oh yah If I do have to pull the head what all am I looking at doing? It looks like I can pull it without removing engine but can it be done? What about injectors do they have to go or can I leave them in? I guess Its about time to buy a manual for this.Thanks again as I will be needing the support from you guys on this one.
I would try a little heat, heat the ends you see up red hot and let em cool back down, spray them with penetrating oil in between, do that cycle a few times and they should let go. The hot and cold expands and contracts and sometimes breaks up the rust holding them in.
Good Luck
Tom.
 

Tazza

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I would try a little heat, heat the ends you see up red hot and let em cool back down, spray them with penetrating oil in between, do that cycle a few times and they should let go. The hot and cold expands and contracts and sometimes breaks up the rust holding them in.
Good Luck
Tom.
I think heat would be a good start, as long as you don't drill too deep you won't need to pull the head off. If you don't go down to the tip nothing will fall into the cylinders. The head can be removed without pulling the engine but then you need a new head gasket. Its a last resort.
Be careful with ez-outs, if they break off its like drilling through diamonds!!! heat and a good hit with a hammer is a good start. Even if you can slip a nut on the broken section and use a welder to weld the nut to the remaining glow plug. This works well on broken bolts, the heat also travels down and helps break the seal. Naturally remove the inlet manifold to gain access.
Let us know how you go!
 
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daved

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I think heat would be a good start, as long as you don't drill too deep you won't need to pull the head off. If you don't go down to the tip nothing will fall into the cylinders. The head can be removed without pulling the engine but then you need a new head gasket. Its a last resort.
Be careful with ez-outs, if they break off its like drilling through diamonds!!! heat and a good hit with a hammer is a good start. Even if you can slip a nut on the broken section and use a welder to weld the nut to the remaining glow plug. This works well on broken bolts, the heat also travels down and helps break the seal. Naturally remove the inlet manifold to gain access.
Let us know how you go!
Thanks for the help. I'm still trying my luck but no luck just yet. I am afraid I am going to have to pull the head to really work on it. Can anybody tell me on the v1702 if I have to pull the injectors out before removing the head? I wasnt sure if they pertrude the bottom of the head or not. I have pulled injectors before and the ones I did had a brass sleeve around them and 1/2 the time the sleeve would stick in the head and then you had to buy new injectors also. If these are that way I hate to buy injectors also. So far my quick fix isnt quick or cheap. Oh well. Thanks again
 

Fishfiles

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Thanks for the help. I'm still trying my luck but no luck just yet. I am afraid I am going to have to pull the head to really work on it. Can anybody tell me on the v1702 if I have to pull the injectors out before removing the head? I wasnt sure if they pertrude the bottom of the head or not. I have pulled injectors before and the ones I did had a brass sleeve around them and 1/2 the time the sleeve would stick in the head and then you had to buy new injectors also. If these are that way I hate to buy injectors also. So far my quick fix isnt quick or cheap. Oh well. Thanks again
the tip sticks out the edge of the head a fraction , you can leave them in , take care and don't slide the head off , -----how much is sticking out the head , do you have enough so you could you put a nut over the piece and weld it then screw it out with a socket
 

Tazza

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the tip sticks out the edge of the head a fraction , you can leave them in , take care and don't slide the head off , -----how much is sticking out the head , do you have enough so you could you put a nut over the piece and weld it then screw it out with a socket
The tip will not poke out the head it pokes into the pre-combustion chamber. It will be safe so don't worry. There are 2 dowles that align the head so you will need to lift it over them to get it out so you won't be sliding it, also you have an oil squirter so again you can't slide it. The welded nut trick does work, i have done it many times before.
 

bobo

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The tip will not poke out the head it pokes into the pre-combustion chamber. It will be safe so don't worry. There are 2 dowles that align the head so you will need to lift it over them to get it out so you won't be sliding it, also you have an oil squirter so again you can't slide it. The welded nut trick does work, i have done it many times before.
I have been a little creative in the past with broken bolts and such and if you have a steady hand you could weld a nut on whats left and and it will come out....just don't be too agressive with it....nice and slow....it will come out.
 

Tazza

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I have been a little creative in the past with broken bolts and such and if you have a steady hand you could weld a nut on whats left and and it will come out....just don't be too agressive with it....nice and slow....it will come out.
One other thing, weld the nut or even a bolt on, get someone to hold tension on it and use a chisel and strike where you welded it, in an anti-clockwise direction. The tension and the shocks of the impacts does help, my dad used to do this when he worked at an engine re-conditioning place, worked every time, just don't put too much tension in the bolt or you risk snapping it off.
 
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daved

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One other thing, weld the nut or even a bolt on, get someone to hold tension on it and use a chisel and strike where you welded it, in an anti-clockwise direction. The tension and the shocks of the impacts does help, my dad used to do this when he worked at an engine re-conditioning place, worked every time, just don't put too much tension in the bolt or you risk snapping it off.
Well Guys I tried and tried everything (Heating, Beating, Welding, Cussing,and holding my tongue out just rite and nothing. So I bit the bullet and ran out to a local machine shop and 2hrs 90 dollars later it was good as new. I didnt get to stay and watch but I know he used a Bridgeport and some high dollar equipment and he had his doughts if I had brought him a hunk of scrap metal or not but he salvaged it and cleaned the threads up rather well. The problem I had was the old glow plugs were so soft of metal it would just twist or melt. So that brings me to my question of the day, Can anybody post or e-mail me a diagram of the torque sequence on the head bolts of my V-1702 and possibly the specs on the torque as well. My e-mail is [email protected] or if posted I can probably just print it out. Or maybe someone could explain but I would think that would be difficult. Oh and one more thing, Can anyone see anything wrong with putting antisieze on the new glow plugs when installed? Just chcking. Thanks alot for all the help.
 

Tazza

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Well Guys I tried and tried everything (Heating, Beating, Welding, Cussing,and holding my tongue out just rite and nothing. So I bit the bullet and ran out to a local machine shop and 2hrs 90 dollars later it was good as new. I didnt get to stay and watch but I know he used a Bridgeport and some high dollar equipment and he had his doughts if I had brought him a hunk of scrap metal or not but he salvaged it and cleaned the threads up rather well. The problem I had was the old glow plugs were so soft of metal it would just twist or melt. So that brings me to my question of the day, Can anybody post or e-mail me a diagram of the torque sequence on the head bolts of my V-1702 and possibly the specs on the torque as well. My e-mail is [email protected] or if posted I can probably just print it out. Or maybe someone could explain but I would think that would be difficult. Oh and one more thing, Can anyone see anything wrong with putting antisieze on the new glow plugs when installed? Just chcking. Thanks alot for all the help.
Look here for a higher rez image: http://users.tpg.com.au/tazza_/Untitled3.jpg
Untitled3.jpg

As for the threads on the plugs, its a good idea! my dad forces me to use neva-seze on all bolts where the temperature gets up there, especially exhaust manifold bolts & nuts.
For the head bolt torque, simply start in the middle, and work in a circle from there, look at the numbering on the above image and you will understand. Any problems just yell. Remember to set your valve clearance too, it should be .007 - .009 and also re-torque the head after it has been warmed up.
 
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