Gehl 3510

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cbechdel

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May 15, 2020
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My 3510 skid steer is not running right. It seems to lose power the longer I run it. I first noticed it when it jerked or I raised the bucket. It needed time to catch up. It has got progressively worse. I have changed the plugs and wires, tightened connections, rebuilt the carb, and changed the fuel filter. I do have a leak in exhaust where it attaches to the Exhaust manifold. Any suggestions are welcome
 

flyerdan

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Check the air filter, also the timing. If it's way slow it loses power fast. Also make sure that the governor is working freely.
 
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cbechdel

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Check the air filter, also the timing. If it's way slow it loses power fast. Also make sure that the governor is working freely.
Thanks I will check these ideas , but I did not see a Gehl repair manual in the thread you sent me.
 

flyerdan

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Thanks I will check these ideas , but I did not see a Gehl repair manual in the thread you sent me.
Manuals for Gehl (and most other makes aside from Bobcat) are somewhat difficult to come by. There are some parts manuals available, but the service one have been elusive. If I run across any I tend to grab them or bookmark them.
I didn't send you the link per se, but since there isn't any way to make threads stickies here, I just have it in my sig so it shows up everywhere I do. If I find a source of new manuals, I do go back and edit the thread so it's included there.
What you might try is searching for the engine model, often you can find info on the engine, and the repair procedures don't care what the engine is used in, so that could be a workaround.
 
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cbechdel

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I still am having trouble with my 3510 . We have checked the timing, spark, and seems to be getting gas. We have very little vacuum at the distributor and not a lot of suction in the carb. It has fired some after timing adjustment, but it will not run. Looking for suggestions
 

thwerench

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May 29, 2022
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Is it electronic ignition? Did you check timing with a timing light? Have you checked for a good strong spark?
 
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cbechdel

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Is it electronic ignition? Did you check timing with a timing light? Have you checked for a good strong spark?
Not electronic ignition and yes we have used a timing light and it seems to have good spark.
Also, the compression is consistent at 75 - 80 lbs in all cylinders. I would like it higher, but shouldn't it still start just with lower power?
 

foton

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that is pretty low, it would be better over 100 psi, I do not think it will help but have you checked your valve clearance?
 

Firefighter

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Dec 31, 1969
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Check compression at full throttle. how bout leaking intake & carb gaskets. faulty distributor cap can cause poor running too
a coil going bad can cause delayed, poor spark the longer it runs
is there any adjustments on the carburetor
 
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cbechdel

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Check compression at full throttle. how bout leaking intake & carb gaskets. faulty distributor cap can cause poor running too
a coil going bad can cause delayed, poor spark the longer it runs
is there any adjustments on the carburetor
We can't get it started to check at full throttle. It almost started after we set the timing but would not complete the start. It seems to have good spark
 

Firefighter

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actually i meant just cranking with throttle at wide open should give an accurate compression reading
are your spark plug wires on the correct cylinders remove any spark plug & take the distributor cap off n turn over by hand till it is on the compression stroke at TDC and check to see how the rotor aligns to the cap with the cylinder, then check your firing order from that point. if the rotor is pointing to the correct cylinder or real close to it should start or at least attempt to
i find it best to adjust timing by listening to the engine and adjusting distributor after its started
 

thwerench

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Try to start it then pull a couple plugs. See if they're wet with fuel. Does it smell like fuel when it's trying to start? Did you happen to refuel it just before this happened? Fuel quality?
Would be interesting to learn the results of the test firefighter told you to do
 
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cbechdel

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actually i meant just cranking with throttle at wide open should give an accurate compression reading
are your spark plug wires on the correct cylinders remove any spark plug & take the distributor cap off n turn over by hand till it is on the compression stroke at TDC and check to see how the rotor aligns to the cap with the cylinder, then check your firing order from that point. if the rotor is pointing to the correct cylinder or real close to it should start or at least attempt to
i find it best to adjust timing by listening to the engine and adjusting distributor after its started
We did the wire thing. I will try cranking at full throttle
 
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cbechdel

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We have rechecked the compression and found cyl. 1 is at 45, 2 at 62, and the other two at 100.
The low cylinders were wet after turning the engine over. Unless someone has an idea, I believe I will be looking for an engine or possibly a rebuild kit.
 

foton

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the engine needs help that is for sure.and since your 2 low cylinders have different pressures I would think that the head gasket is not a problem. I would pull the head off and see what the cylinders look like, that away you will know if the block is salvagable for a rebuild. what gas engine is in it?
 

thwerench

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What was the " wet " in the two low cylinders? Coolant or fuel? Are they closest to the carb? Gas would wash the cylinder walls and cause low compression
If it was coolant then looks like it's coming apart
 
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cbechdel

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What was the " wet " in the two low cylinders? Coolant or fuel? Are they closest to the carb? Gas would wash the cylinder walls and cause low compression
If it was coolant then looks like it's coming apart
It was gas. They are not any closer to the carb then then others
 
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cbechdel

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the engine needs help that is for sure.and since your 2 low cylinders have different pressures I would think that the head gasket is not a problem. I would pull the head off and see what the cylinders look like, that away you will know if the block is salvagable for a rebuild. what gas engine is in it?
It is the same engine that was in the Ford Pinto. There is suppose to be a number on the block near the exhaust manifold, but we could not find it while on the machine. Also, there is suppose to be either a letter or not to ID the engine.
 
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