Engine Temp Light ..on with cold weather start!!...1840 Case

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godofjazz

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Joined
Nov 25, 2008
Messages
6
kinda new here at owning my skid steer.....I think the model year is 1994 and i haven't found or ont think it has a plug to keep the engine warm....is there a kit i can get to install on my skid steer .........anyways....when i start my skid steer the temp light comes on and stays on and i was afraid that something was wrong, other than it being really cold......that was the only light that was showing a problem.........i actually didnt run the motor very long ....figured i would try and find out if it will go out when motor warmed up or is it a real problem that will need some attention?........any advise would be apreciated my friends......john.
 

skidsteer.ca

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Joined
Jan 20, 2006
Messages
3,853
John
Does this light come on everty time you start? does it ever go off? Most of these work by ground the light to turn oit on, if the wire has rubbed through to a bare mettal part anywhere on the machine it can be getting a ground like that and would be on all the time. Also possible its a bad sender. Should test normally open unless heated to 200 to 220 degrees (my estimate) if its closed at room temp it may need replaced.
Also, your sure its your water temp light? not your charge pressure light or hydraulic temp light? Some machines used 1 warning light for multiple functions, I can't say for Case for sure. Try unhooking the wire at the water temp sender (temporarily) on the engine and see if the light goes off to verify thats the correct light if you have any doubt.
Look up a cummins 4bt engine at www.zerostart.com and you will be able to get a part # for your block heater unless you really want to pay 4x for the case or cummins part.
Ken
 
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godofjazz

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Nov 25, 2008
Messages
6
John
Does this light come on everty time you start? does it ever go off? Most of these work by ground the light to turn oit on, if the wire has rubbed through to a bare mettal part anywhere on the machine it can be getting a ground like that and would be on all the time. Also possible its a bad sender. Should test normally open unless heated to 200 to 220 degrees (my estimate) if its closed at room temp it may need replaced.
Also, your sure its your water temp light? not your charge pressure light or hydraulic temp light? Some machines used 1 warning light for multiple functions, I can't say for Case for sure. Try unhooking the wire at the water temp sender (temporarily) on the engine and see if the light goes off to verify thats the correct light if you have any doubt.
Look up a cummins 4bt engine at www.zerostart.com and you will be able to get a part # for your block heater unless you really want to pay 4x for the case or cummins part.
Ken
The Hydraulics have its own temp light....and the ENG TEMP light was the only one that is lighted and also...a buzzing sound that usually sounds when the skid steer is idling below RPMs to make alternator charge battery...i all ways hear the buzzing sound when the alternator light is on and i usually just give it slightly more gas until it stops and then let the engine warm up from there.....it was probably about 30 degrees yesterday........I actually turned off the machine when the engine actually was already running at enough RPMs to get the alternator charging the battery and the buzzing was still sounding with the eng tem light also on..........Maybe if i had just let the machine warm up the buzzing would of went off but i didnt really know if that would damage something or not...... I havent found the price on the 4bt freeze plug yet....but i am checking into it.....thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge with me Sir. peace john
 
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godofjazz

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Joined
Nov 25, 2008
Messages
6
The Hydraulics have its own temp light....and the ENG TEMP light was the only one that is lighted and also...a buzzing sound that usually sounds when the skid steer is idling below RPMs to make alternator charge battery...i all ways hear the buzzing sound when the alternator light is on and i usually just give it slightly more gas until it stops and then let the engine warm up from there.....it was probably about 30 degrees yesterday........I actually turned off the machine when the engine actually was already running at enough RPMs to get the alternator charging the battery and the buzzing was still sounding with the eng tem light also on..........Maybe if i had just let the machine warm up the buzzing would of went off but i didnt really know if that would damage something or not...... I havent found the price on the 4bt freeze plug yet....but i am checking into it.....thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge with me Sir. peace john
I was on the Case official website looking for my cold weather start system and it says that my skid steer has one but i cant make much sense of it.....i let my skid steer run for about 10 minutes and the buzzing still didnt go off...... this is a address of the place to look at Case equipment parts diagrams
http://www.caseih.com/parts/parts.aspx?&navid=123&RL=ENNA&typeid=157
just click the little link on the page that first loads....for search for parts at bottom center and to right of page then type in 1840 and then click on engine and then cold start north america.....
Also, i was wondering when my engine only has around 50 horse power how can a 4bt fuel pin and new bosh injectors really increas the hp up 15 for each of them which would add to 80 hp total.....will that cause other parts of moter to actually run hotter or break down faster? sorry for my lack of knowledge...im working on that though......
On the cold start north america.......to me it just sounded like it had some built in ether sprayer type thing which.....from what ive been told about using ether all the time.....that the motor can get addicted to it and not start without it.........
My skid steer....still seems to start strong and operate good.....just the eng temp light and buzzing will not go off........thinking about hitting it with a hammer.....lol....just kidding!! thanks johnny
 

skidsteer.ca

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Joined
Jan 20, 2006
Messages
3,853
I was on the Case official website looking for my cold weather start system and it says that my skid steer has one but i cant make much sense of it.....i let my skid steer run for about 10 minutes and the buzzing still didnt go off...... this is a address of the place to look at Case equipment parts diagrams
http://www.caseih.com/parts/parts.aspx?&navid=123&RL=ENNA&typeid=157
just click the little link on the page that first loads....for search for parts at bottom center and to right of page then type in 1840 and then click on engine and then cold start north america.....
Also, i was wondering when my engine only has around 50 horse power how can a 4bt fuel pin and new bosh injectors really increas the hp up 15 for each of them which would add to 80 hp total.....will that cause other parts of moter to actually run hotter or break down faster? sorry for my lack of knowledge...im working on that though......
On the cold start north america.......to me it just sounded like it had some built in ether sprayer type thing which.....from what ive been told about using ether all the time.....that the motor can get addicted to it and not start without it.........
My skid steer....still seems to start strong and operate good.....just the eng temp light and buzzing will not go off........thinking about hitting it with a hammer.....lol....just kidding!! thanks johnny
John
The only way to damage the machine is to
Run the engine with no oil pressure
Overheat the engine (which is not happening right at startup)
Operate the machine with low charge pressure or hi oil temp.
You have a failure in your machine warning system. The idiot lights, well have become idiots :)
You need to isolate the warning systems and narrow down what is setting off the alarm.
That was the point of my first post. Try disconection the water temp sender first its located near the thermostat housing somewhere on most engine. If you think the low voltage light/buzzer is on do to low engine speed increase the throttle enough to eliminate that one.
The hot light being on at cold startup is most likely a bad sender or worn through insulation on a wire.
Ken
 
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godofjazz

Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2008
Messages
6
John
The only way to damage the machine is to
Run the engine with no oil pressure
Overheat the engine (which is not happening right at startup)
Operate the machine with low charge pressure or hi oil temp.
You have a failure in your machine warning system. The idiot lights, well have become idiots :)
You need to isolate the warning systems and narrow down what is setting off the alarm.
That was the point of my first post. Try disconection the water temp sender first its located near the thermostat housing somewhere on most engine. If you think the low voltage light/buzzer is on do to low engine speed increase the throttle enough to eliminate that one.
The hot light being on at cold startup is most likely a bad sender or worn through insulation on a wire.
Ken
after studying the rear wiring harness i found where the coolant temp sensor was located and disconected it and the buzzer and light went off and then i tried to take the sensor out but all the coolant was leaking out...even though it was on the top rear of the motor....i guess it was still under pressure so i never actually pulled it completely out ....i think i might try and clean it off and then put it back in and see if it still buzzes......Or......should i just go ahead and get a new coolant temp sensor?......and where would be the most affordable place to purchase that piece at? thanks peace johnny
 

mllud

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Joined
Jun 29, 2007
Messages
635
after studying the rear wiring harness i found where the coolant temp sensor was located and disconected it and the buzzer and light went off and then i tried to take the sensor out but all the coolant was leaking out...even though it was on the top rear of the motor....i guess it was still under pressure so i never actually pulled it completely out ....i think i might try and clean it off and then put it back in and see if it still buzzes......Or......should i just go ahead and get a new coolant temp sensor?......and where would be the most affordable place to purchase that piece at? thanks peace johnny
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Jonny
If you replace the sensor.You could try an auto parts to see if they can match it. If you think its the problem. I dont feel like Ive wasted my money if I replace a sensor and it doesnt solve the problem. Its a critical part .If you identify the engine they may be able to cross reference. If its a J/D engine it may be dealer only. Even at the dealer temp. sensors dont cost to much. And Im not rich.
The pressure would relieve quickly. .It could be that the level of coolant in the radiator is higher than the sensor. I would open the radiator cap and drain a little coolant out of the radiator before changing the sensor. Less mess.
Mike
 

goose

Active member
Joined
Apr 12, 2008
Messages
43
.
Jonny
If you replace the sensor.You could try an auto parts to see if they can match it. If you think its the problem. I dont feel like Ive wasted my money if I replace a sensor and it doesnt solve the problem. Its a critical part .If you identify the engine they may be able to cross reference. If its a J/D engine it may be dealer only. Even at the dealer temp. sensors dont cost to much. And Im not rich.
The pressure would relieve quickly. .It could be that the level of coolant in the radiator is higher than the sensor. I would open the radiator cap and drain a little coolant out of the radiator before changing the sensor. Less mess.
Mike
Go to your Case dealer and get the correct sender.Its not worth it to install a sender that your not sure will work right and ruin the engine.. As far as replacing the sender, remove the radiator cap to release the pressure and then reinstal it and it will holt the coolant in a form of vacumn long enough to swap the sensor out and only a trickle of coolant if any will come out.
 
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godofjazz

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Joined
Nov 25, 2008
Messages
6
Go to your Case dealer and get the correct sender.Its not worth it to install a sender that your not sure will work right and ruin the engine.. As far as replacing the sender, remove the radiator cap to release the pressure and then reinstal it and it will holt the coolant in a form of vacumn long enough to swap the sensor out and only a trickle of coolant if any will come out.
Hey, i really appreciate all your help i contacted the local case dealer and it was 40 dollars for the sensor then i searched for it on the net and i can have it shipped to my house for 39 dollars for part and shipping in all...from a company at this website ....
http://www.colemanequip.com
they seem to have very low prices i have bought things from them before......I would still have to drive 20 miles to pick up the part and 20 miles back home and still pay 40 dollars for it at the other place.....thank god for the internet!!! If there is any other websites that you all can recomend for parts just let me know..... Gobble Gobble peace john
 
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