Did I get a good deal? I'm new to this.

[JeffD]

I bought a OMC Mustang 310 for $100. I'm not sure what year it is. The x-owner told me it had sat for 15 years in a pasture. The engine is a 14hp kohler, but its stuck and no carb. All the levers and foot controls were stuck but with a little grease and penetrating oil i have them all moving freely now. All the pumps and pulleys move freely. Next is the engine- i'm thinking full rebuild on it even if the skid hydrolics don't work. The steering is all hydrostatic and the cylinders are ran off a seperate pump. Is there a way to test the steering pumps without having an engine? I'm new at this but i do have experience with small engines and some hydrolics. I just couldn't pass up the deal so i'm up for any and all advice that will lead me in the right direction.

 

[skidsteer.ca]

Well how far can you go wrong spending $100
If you can get any kind of engine in there you could test run it. Even a 5 hp would be ok for a test if you have one around. The owner never said why it was parked? For engine trouble or was something else wrong.
Personally I would be looking for a engine to transplant in it as opposed to a rebuilt on something that old that sat that long. www.smallenginewarehouse.com or www.supluscenter.com may have a good transplant engine.
Ken

 

[BobMelroe]

Well how far can you go wrong spending $100
If you can get any kind of engine in there you could test run it. Even a 5 hp would be ok for a test if you have one around. The owner never said why it was parked? For engine trouble or was something else wrong.
Personally I would be looking for a engine to transplant in it as opposed to a rebuilt on something that old that sat that long. www.smallenginewarehouse.com or www.supluscenter.com may have a good transplant engine.
Ken

I agree with Ken. I would add that you take your time and check everything before you actually start using it. A little time spent now could save a lot of time and money later on.

 

[Tazza]

I agree with Ken. I would add that you take your time and check everything before you actually start using it. A little time spent now could save a lot of time and money later on.

For $100 you can't go wrong.
If its been sitting that long, it would be a good idea to clean the entire system out.

 

[JeffD]

For $100 you can't go wrong.
If its been sitting that long, it would be a good idea to clean the entire system out.

i got the engine unstuck today. cylinder looks good so i'm leaning towards just a rebuild, valve job and a new carb. how do i go about cleaning out the whole hydro system? and should it push around easily with the hydrostatic drive, cause it rolls around in the garage fairly well.

 

[Tazza]

i got the engine unstuck today. cylinder looks good so i'm leaning towards just a rebuild, valve job and a new carb. how do i go about cleaning out the whole hydro system? and should it push around easily with the hydrostatic drive, cause it rolls around in the garage fairly well.

Being hydro drive, it shouldn't budge. You probably have an air lock in the pump or motors.
To flush the oil, that's not so easy. I'd suggest removing the pins on the front of the lift ram, lift the arms and pull the rams back and forth with the lines open, this will remove all the oil in the rams. Same for the tilt cylinder. Drain the oil tank, swap the filter and re-fill. Even open the lines up to the drive motors when purging the oil, get as much out as you can before adding fresh oil. When you get the engine running, run it for a bit, driving around then dump the oil again.

 

[coreya3212]

Being hydro drive, it shouldn't budge. You probably have an air lock in the pump or motors.
To flush the oil, that's not so easy. I'd suggest removing the pins on the front of the lift ram, lift the arms and pull the rams back and forth with the lines open, this will remove all the oil in the rams. Same for the tilt cylinder. Drain the oil tank, swap the filter and re-fill. Even open the lines up to the drive motors when purging the oil, get as much out as you can before adding fresh oil. When you get the engine running, run it for a bit, driving around then dump the oil again.

I think you got a hell of a deal!! I would have bought 2 at that price. Good find.

 

[OldMachinist]

I think you got a hell of a deal!! I would have bought 2 at that price. Good find.

Here's a link to the Kohler K321 service manual I uploaded for someone awhile back.
http://www.mediafire.com/?xtz2zj25ntq

 

[soutthpaw]

Here's a link to the Kohler K321 service manual I uploaded for someone awhile back.
http://www.mediafire.com/?xtz2zj25ntq

consider just swaping out the whole engine to like a 20 or 24 HP unit like Kohler, B and S or Honda, Robin Subaru etc... may end up costing less in the long run.... Kohler used to have all their repair manuals on their website for PDF download probably still there if you look around...

 

[JeffD]

Here's a link to the Kohler K321 service manual I uploaded for someone awhile back.
http://www.mediafire.com/?xtz2zj25ntq

Thanks for the uploaded manuel oldmachininst, that will be very handy in the rebuild. Is there a drain plug for the hydro fluid somewhere i should be looking for? I decided just to go with a engine rebuild for now, if everything works out like i hope, i may buy a bigger engine later on or upgrade to a bigger unit. Also, the fluid that came out of the hydo pump smelled like ATF fluid, is that the proper fluid? I really don't want to spend the money on literature if this project isn't gonna be worth it in the end. again thanks for all the advice

 

[Iowa Dave]

Thanks for the uploaded manuel oldmachininst, that will be very handy in the rebuild. Is there a drain plug for the hydro fluid somewhere i should be looking for? I decided just to go with a engine rebuild for now, if everything works out like i hope, i may buy a bigger engine later on or upgrade to a bigger unit. Also, the fluid that came out of the hydo pump smelled like ATF fluid, is that the proper fluid? I really don't want to spend the money on literature if this project isn't gonna be worth it in the end. again thanks for all the advice

I had one when they were new. I guess you can't go wrong for $100---but they are a VERY poor machine. The terribly underpowered air cooled 14 hp Kohler does not have an oil pump--just a splash system. DO NOT SPEND ANY $$ ON SAVING THE ENGINE--throw it away and re-power with a Honda or a 20HP pressure lubricated Kohler. I got about 500 hrs on engines. I may have gotten 700 hrs out of one (I had 4 new engines to get to 2300 hrs when I wised up and sold it--my Bobcat dealer knew of the 310's record and wouldn't even take it in on trade.)This was a long time ago--maybe 1980 or so. If you rebuild the Kohler, you will be sorry. ABSOLUTELY NO POWER. Since then, I have had 2 440B's---WAY BETTER, a 450 a 453, and 2 463's. The 463's with their water-cooled diesels are great. I wouldn't use that 310 except for a boat anchor. If you put any real money in it, you will regret it later. Maybe you can make some money by getting it running, and selling it. Use the profit to get a Bobcat mini.

 

[JeffD]

I had one when they were new. I guess you can't go wrong for $100---but they are a VERY poor machine. The terribly underpowered air cooled 14 hp Kohler does not have an oil pump--just a splash system. DO NOT SPEND ANY $$ ON SAVING THE ENGINE--throw it away and re-power with a Honda or a 20HP pressure lubricated Kohler. I got about 500 hrs on engines. I may have gotten 700 hrs out of one (I had 4 new engines to get to 2300 hrs when I wised up and sold it--my Bobcat dealer knew of the 310's record and wouldn't even take it in on trade.)This was a long time ago--maybe 1980 or so. If you rebuild the Kohler, you will be sorry. ABSOLUTELY NO POWER. Since then, I have had 2 440B's---WAY BETTER, a 450 a 453, and 2 463's. The 463's with their water-cooled diesels are great. I wouldn't use that 310 except for a boat anchor. If you put any real money in it, you will regret it later. Maybe you can make some money by getting it running, and selling it. Use the profit to get a Bobcat mini.

do you know what the lift capacity is by chance? I'm not looking to do anything major with it. Would the engine/hydro pump be enough to power a log splitter cylinder just using the skids hydro system pump?

 

[BobMelroe]

do you know what the lift capacity is by chance? I'm not looking to do anything major with it. Would the engine/hydro pump be enough to power a log splitter cylinder just using the skids hydro system pump?

I'm not sure of the lift capacity, as I'm not familiar with your machine, but as far as running a log splitter goes it all depends on what the system pressure is and how big of a cylinder your splitter has. The following formula will help you determine tonnage: pie(3.1416) x r² (radius squared) x system pressure.
For example; 4" bore cylinder, with 1700lbs system pressure
3.1416(2x2)=12.5664 x 1700psi= 21362.88lbs OR 10.68 tons.

Speed of the cylinder will be determined by the flow (GPM) of the pump. It most likely will split logs, but how fast?? I have no idea as I don't know the GPM output of your pump. Clear as mud?? www.surpluscenter.com has calculators for determining force and speed. Just plug in the values and it will tell you. Hope this helps......

 

[JeffD]

I'm not sure of the lift capacity, as I'm not familiar with your machine, but as far as running a log splitter goes it all depends on what the system pressure is and how big of a cylinder your splitter has. The following formula will help you determine tonnage: pie(3.1416) x r² (radius squared) x system pressure.
For example; 4" bore cylinder, with 1700lbs system pressure
3.1416(2x2)=12.5664 x 1700psi= 21362.88lbs OR 10.68 tons.

Speed of the cylinder will be determined by the flow (GPM) of the pump. It most likely will split logs, but how fast?? I have no idea as I don't know the GPM output of your pump. Clear as mud?? www.surpluscenter.com has calculators for determining force and speed. Just plug in the values and it will tell you. Hope this helps......

does anyone happen to know how much hydro fluid this thing takes and where might the drain plug be?

 

[jimcook]

does anyone happen to know how much hydro fluid this thing takes and where might the drain plug be?

Jeff, I have a Mustang 310 and am very happy with it. I don't believe there is a drain plug. The hydro reservoir is under the floor panel below your feet. It holds 18 gallons of hyraulic fluid. As you remove the floor plate, you will find a large gasket all the way around it that you will probably replace. Parts can be obtained from Gehl, who makes the newer Mustangs although yours was manufactured by OMC (Owatonna). Once you have the plate off, I believe you will have to bail out the reservoir. In all probability you should replace the seals on the four axles that come into the reservoir. When I purchased my 310, all four of the seals leaked. Since they have been replaced I do not have a single oil leak on the machine. Concerning the two hyraulic pumps that operate the drive and steering, they are turned when the big serpentine belt is engaged by the movement of the clutch which pushes an idler spool into the serpentine belt. When the belt is not engaged you should be able to turn each of the pulleys on the pumps by hand with very little resistance. If there is resistance you probably have some gunk in the pumps. Once you get the engine running, with the clutch not engaged, you use almost no power. The boom and bucket will operate off of the small pump located just above the left side of the engine. When you engage the clutch, you will need a lot more of the engine. If you get your machine up and running and it is not too rusty it should be worth between $2,000 and $5,000. It's a great little skid loader for small jobs.

 

[HarryN]

Jeff, I have a Mustang 310 and am very happy with it. I don't believe there is a drain plug. The hydro reservoir is under the floor panel below your feet. It holds 18 gallons of hyraulic fluid. As you remove the floor plate, you will find a large gasket all the way around it that you will probably replace. Parts can be obtained from Gehl, who makes the newer Mustangs although yours was manufactured by OMC (Owatonna). Once you have the plate off, I believe you will have to bail out the reservoir. In all probability you should replace the seals on the four axles that come into the reservoir. When I purchased my 310, all four of the seals leaked. Since they have been replaced I do not have a single oil leak on the machine. Concerning the two hyraulic pumps that operate the drive and steering, they are turned when the big serpentine belt is engaged by the movement of the clutch which pushes an idler spool into the serpentine belt. When the belt is not engaged you should be able to turn each of the pulleys on the pumps by hand with very little resistance. If there is resistance you probably have some gunk in the pumps. Once you get the engine running, with the clutch not engaged, you use almost no power. The boom and bucket will operate off of the small pump located just above the left side of the engine. When you engage the clutch, you will need a lot more of the engine. If you get your machine up and running and it is not too rusty it should be worth between $2,000 and $5,000. It's a great little skid loader for small jobs.

Hey Jim.....this post is 2 and a half years old. But I wonder how Jeff made out?