davis backhoe

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jerry

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May 3, 2007
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Hi, I looked at a davis backhoe the other day set up for a skidsteer. It is a older one with 4 levers instead of joysticks and has vertical stabilizers instead of fold-down. It says on it davis co. for J.I. Case. I think it would be ok as far as weight and the guy used it on his 743. I have a 632. Has anyone had any experience with this brand? Have not tried it out yet as it is frozen in ice. Two buckets with it and it may need a couple of hoses at least and I will have to build the frame attachment system as it just uses the QA plate now. He wants 1600, is it worth a second look ? Thanks for your opinions
 
Davis is a company that use to make trenchers and were bought out by case. I had a davis track trencher in the mid 80s. It was fairly old then. They made good equipment. Is it posible it was made for a trencher. I could get that trencher set up, get off an watch it go. Mike
 
Davis is a company that use to make trenchers and were bought out by case. I had a davis track trencher in the mid 80s. It was fairly old then. They made good equipment. Is it posible it was made for a trencher. I could get that trencher set up, get off an watch it go. Mike
I have seen other backhoes like it on the net and today called the case dealer, he said there are still some around and were ok except the swing was quite fast on them but he said all small hoes tend to be fast. I,ll go look again tomorrow, it is one of those things I don't really need but once I get one I,ll find enough stuff to do with it.
 
I have seen other backhoes like it on the net and today called the case dealer, he said there are still some around and were ok except the swing was quite fast on them but he said all small hoes tend to be fast. I,ll go look again tomorrow, it is one of those things I don't really need but once I get one I,ll find enough stuff to do with it.
Jery: I read somewhere on here about using a restrictor valve to slow the swing down. It sound like a good buy. Mike
 
Jery: I read somewhere on here about using a restrictor valve to slow the swing down. It sound like a good buy. Mike
I'm going to do that to mine. Even if i make an adapter with a small hole drilled in it and enlarge it till the speed is where i believe its *safe*.
 
I'm going to do that to mine. Even if i make an adapter with a small hole drilled in it and enlarge it till the speed is where i believe its *safe*.
Tazza , I know you have a hoe for your machine. Do you have any trouble on softer ground such a crossing a lawn or the like. That would be a concern for me with the smaller machine and all of that weight hanging out front I would like to use it to pull some smaller stumps on the edge of the yard. thanks
 
Tazza , I know you have a hoe for your machine. Do you have any trouble on softer ground such a crossing a lawn or the like. That would be a concern for me with the smaller machine and all of that weight hanging out front I would like to use it to pull some smaller stumps on the edge of the yard. thanks
Jerry
For a few years I run a 909 bobcat hoe (9' dig depth) on a 753 loader. It was a big load on that machine. Sinking was not so much a problem. Nothing like a tractor loader backhoe cut ruts in lawns anyway.
Workingwith the 753/909 someplace where you had to back up any more then a shallow grade was tough though. The machine would tilt up on its front tires until the hoe bucket touched the ground. Sometimes you had to push yourself with the hoe boom.
I was always going to counter weight the rear, but ended up getting a larger 773. Then I traded the 909 off on a 709 Which is the same size hoe but has more clearance under the out riggers and when the boom is folded in tight against the hoe it has much more clearance under the bucket, which made driving through rough terrain alot easier.
On really soft ground I have at times pushed myself back with the hoe by pushing the hoe controls with my knees while reaching back into the loader and running the steering levers with my hands. Which will get you moving in some pretty soft places. I also run tracks.
Ken
 
Jerry
For a few years I run a 909 bobcat hoe (9' dig depth) on a 753 loader. It was a big load on that machine. Sinking was not so much a problem. Nothing like a tractor loader backhoe cut ruts in lawns anyway.
Workingwith the 753/909 someplace where you had to back up any more then a shallow grade was tough though. The machine would tilt up on its front tires until the hoe bucket touched the ground. Sometimes you had to push yourself with the hoe boom.
I was always going to counter weight the rear, but ended up getting a larger 773. Then I traded the 909 off on a 709 Which is the same size hoe but has more clearance under the out riggers and when the boom is folded in tight against the hoe it has much more clearance under the bucket, which made driving through rough terrain alot easier.
On really soft ground I have at times pushed myself back with the hoe by pushing the hoe controls with my knees while reaching back into the loader and running the steering levers with my hands. Which will get you moving in some pretty soft places. I also run tracks.
Ken
Thanks Ken, I looked up the 753 and it has the same lift and load cap as the 743 which is what this fellow has it on. Our 632 has 300 lb less lift and 500 less load cap but other dimensions are basically the same as a 743. I can't find a weight for the backhoe but will have to go by how his machine handles it , looks to be around 1000 lb and a 709 is 1500 but I always under estimate the weight of steel.
 
Thanks Ken, I looked up the 753 and it has the same lift and load cap as the 743 which is what this fellow has it on. Our 632 has 300 lb less lift and 500 less load cap but other dimensions are basically the same as a 743. I can't find a weight for the backhoe but will have to go by how his machine handles it , looks to be around 1000 lb and a 709 is 1500 but I always under estimate the weight of steel.
I recently acquired a Case/Davis Model 100 Backhoe that I traded four cords of firewood for. When I got it it needed the boom and dipper cylinders rebuilt and it was set up for a goofy flopping half breed quick tach system. I cut the quick tach mess off and added a new Quick Tach plate from ATVExpress on Ebay for $130 dollars. I then started on the hydraulics. Mylittle machine had diesel fuel mixed with the hydraulic oil and had been sadly abused in the rocks. This combination heated the hydraulic oil to the point it literally baked the hydraulice seals in the boom adn dipper seals til they crumbled out in pieces. When I called my local Case dealer I was advised that Case/Davis had contracted with three companies to build the boom and dipper cylinders. Two of those were Lan Tex and Cessna, I appologize I dont remember the third. My cylinders were Lan Tex cylinders and then he told me that they went out of business approximately 15 years ago and that they could not get seals for them. He said Case remedied this by contracting with another company to build "retro fit" pistons and glands. Down side is those pieces with new seals ran $250 a cylinder. I refused to pay that so I set out to find seals. I called dozens of Hydraulic Shops and when I described what I was looking for they would laugh at you. I finally found a company in Kansas City KS named Swan Engineering that said they could match new Parker seals to my cyilnders if I brought them in. A four hour trip to Kansas City later I had new seals for all three cylinders for $36. I've got about $300 in parts now in it and a wonderful very handy attachment. I also used two Cat 2 tractor top links for the stabilization links back to the machine. If you have Lan Tex cylinders that need rebuilt let me know I will find the ticket and post part numbers so you can order the seals. My other advice is if your hoe has the four pin attachment systems is to cut the bottom two 1" thick lugs off and mount a quick tach plate as low as possible. Good Luck, I love mine John
 
I recently acquired a Case/Davis Model 100 Backhoe that I traded four cords of firewood for. When I got it it needed the boom and dipper cylinders rebuilt and it was set up for a goofy flopping half breed quick tach system. I cut the quick tach mess off and added a new Quick Tach plate from ATVExpress on Ebay for $130 dollars. I then started on the hydraulics. Mylittle machine had diesel fuel mixed with the hydraulic oil and had been sadly abused in the rocks. This combination heated the hydraulic oil to the point it literally baked the hydraulice seals in the boom adn dipper seals til they crumbled out in pieces. When I called my local Case dealer I was advised that Case/Davis had contracted with three companies to build the boom and dipper cylinders. Two of those were Lan Tex and Cessna, I appologize I dont remember the third. My cylinders were Lan Tex cylinders and then he told me that they went out of business approximately 15 years ago and that they could not get seals for them. He said Case remedied this by contracting with another company to build "retro fit" pistons and glands. Down side is those pieces with new seals ran $250 a cylinder. I refused to pay that so I set out to find seals. I called dozens of Hydraulic Shops and when I described what I was looking for they would laugh at you. I finally found a company in Kansas City KS named Swan Engineering that said they could match new Parker seals to my cyilnders if I brought them in. A four hour trip to Kansas City later I had new seals for all three cylinders for $36. I've got about $300 in parts now in it and a wonderful very handy attachment. I also used two Cat 2 tractor top links for the stabilization links back to the machine. If you have Lan Tex cylinders that need rebuilt let me know I will find the ticket and post part numbers so you can order the seals. My other advice is if your hoe has the four pin attachment systems is to cut the bottom two 1" thick lugs off and mount a quick tach plate as low as possible. Good Luck, I love mine John
thanks John. I think this deal may have fallen through tho. Your 8875 is probably a lot bigger machine than ours. The cylinders did look ok and anyway I worked for a cylinder shop till last year and rebuilding would be no problem. cessna cylinders are ridiculous in price, our tilt had a bent rod and one leaky fitting and bobcat wanted 900 for a new one. I put a new rod and end retainer in it had the fitting fixed and honed the tube, new seals, installed wear rings in the gland and it is good as new for very minimal cost. I'll keep looking and maybe I can trade some firewood for one, that was a great deal even at the present cost of wood.
 
thanks John. I think this deal may have fallen through tho. Your 8875 is probably a lot bigger machine than ours. The cylinders did look ok and anyway I worked for a cylinder shop till last year and rebuilding would be no problem. cessna cylinders are ridiculous in price, our tilt had a bent rod and one leaky fitting and bobcat wanted 900 for a new one. I put a new rod and end retainer in it had the fitting fixed and honed the tube, new seals, installed wear rings in the gland and it is good as new for very minimal cost. I'll keep looking and maybe I can trade some firewood for one, that was a great deal even at the present cost of wood.
Jerry - i have had no problems with mine over softer dirt. I have been stuck before but i also used the boom. Hook the bucket to a tree with a chain and pulled myself out. Honestly, 300lb less lifting should still be ok. With mine, i can fully extend the boom and i will not tip over, even without the stabilizers down. As for digging, in soft soil its great! but the dirt i have, its not so easy but it does cut through it, just takes a little effort and time.
If you plan on working in soft dirt, it will be fine, but if its hard/rocky you really do need the extra power and weight of a larger machine.
Good luck with your purchase.
 
Jerry - i have had no problems with mine over softer dirt. I have been stuck before but i also used the boom. Hook the bucket to a tree with a chain and pulled myself out. Honestly, 300lb less lifting should still be ok. With mine, i can fully extend the boom and i will not tip over, even without the stabilizers down. As for digging, in soft soil its great! but the dirt i have, its not so easy but it does cut through it, just takes a little effort and time.
If you plan on working in soft dirt, it will be fine, but if its hard/rocky you really do need the extra power and weight of a larger machine.
Good luck with your purchase.
I would use a needle valve to control the swing instead of a restrictor. It will cost a little more but give you the ability to adjust the speed up or down as your skills improve or the job requires.
 
I second the idea of having it adjustable. I used these on my 909 swing cylinder and they worked great.
Here is an example of a needle valve or flow control.
http://surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2008040121280106&item=9-5302-25&catname=hydraulic

Ken
thanks for the link to the flow control Ken, I did get the little backhoe,have to unload it now and go through the pins and such. You mentioned that you attached one with a 3 pt upper link to the frame. Did you use just one or two links? Also whether you use ball hitches or links is the other end fastened solid to the backhoe or allowed to move up and down? All I need now is unfrozen dirt to dig.
 
thanks for the link to the flow control Ken, I did get the little backhoe,have to unload it now and go through the pins and such. You mentioned that you attached one with a 3 pt upper link to the frame. Did you use just one or two links? Also whether you use ball hitches or links is the other end fastened solid to the backhoe or allowed to move up and down? All I need now is unfrozen dirt to dig.
JD8875, any way you could post up those part numbers for the replacement seals? I have two leaking Lantex cylinders on my davis backhoe that need to be replaced. The cylinder to curl the bucket had the numbers 847C cast onto the surface, and the cylinder to curl the secondary arm had 7C. I could not read the piston that raises the main boom because its under the one with the 7C on it. Do these numbers match up with your cylinders? If I'm going to replace one, I might as well do all of them. Thanks.
 
JD8875, any way you could post up those part numbers for the replacement seals? I have two leaking Lantex cylinders on my davis backhoe that need to be replaced. The cylinder to curl the bucket had the numbers 847C cast onto the surface, and the cylinder to curl the secondary arm had 7C. I could not read the piston that raises the main boom because its under the one with the 7C on it. Do these numbers match up with your cylinders? If I'm going to replace one, I might as well do all of them. Thanks.
If no answer from jd8875 you may have to contact the Swan Engineering that he refers to yourself. If you can, or know someone who will measure the seal grooves in the piston and gland of your cylinder they can probably help you out. Do you have a hydraulic cylinder shop locally? They may be able to help also.
 
If no answer from jd8875 you may have to contact the Swan Engineering that he refers to yourself. If you can, or know someone who will measure the seal grooves in the piston and gland of your cylinder they can probably help you out. Do you have a hydraulic cylinder shop locally? They may be able to help also.
I did find a local shop that does cylinder repair, but it would be nice to know what exactly I need. I'm probably going to take one cylinder apart to measure everything then go there and see what they can match up. After looking at the cylinders again, they all appear to be the same Lantex part number (847C). I still can't read the main boom cylinder until I remove the cylinder above it.
 
thanks for the link to the flow control Ken, I did get the little backhoe,have to unload it now and go through the pins and such. You mentioned that you attached one with a 3 pt upper link to the frame. Did you use just one or two links? Also whether you use ball hitches or links is the other end fastened solid to the backhoe or allowed to move up and down? All I need now is unfrozen dirt to dig.
Jerry
We just used one category 2 top link. It floated up and down on both ends, it only held the length. The gemoetry was set so this length effectively locked the bucket dump cylinder.
Both of Bobcats systems is solid on the hoe.
Ken
 
Jerry
We just used one category 2 top link. It floated up and down on both ends, it only held the length. The gemoetry was set so this length effectively locked the bucket dump cylinder.
Both of Bobcats systems is solid on the hoe.
Ken
Ken, I did use top links and mounted them as you would the trailer ball set-up except that both ends have a swivel. When they are on it is very solid and you don't have to have everything perfect before connecting due to the adjuster.
 
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