creating crown with bobcat

[dirtyb115]

Well, got my new fan gearbox in the mail yesterday, so hopefully my 763 will be back to my driveway im putting in next weekend. Everyone i have talked to says i need to have a good crown on my driveway.. Any suggestions on the best way for me to do this ? Also need to put in ditches, but not sure if i should do that before i have the large rock put down or after... Also, would a bachhoe attachement work for doing the ditches, or should i just rent a mini excavator for a couple of days? Thanks for any tips/advice.

 

[mllud]

I live on a mile long geavel road. The crown is especially important on hills or long slopes . You have to prevent the water from running down the road and building in volume to the point it cuts ruts.
The ditches dont have to be any more than enough to handle the water shed. Its not easy to estimate how much water you will have. The flash flooding type rains are what do the damage.
We have had to change things and refine our road over the years. And we still get rains that do damage. If you get some hard rains you can get out there while the water is running and see what you have.
As for what equipment to use the people here that are in the bussiness can advise you better. The time and money spent doing it right the first time will pay off.
Our road was put in by a fly by night realestate broker. Its been a battle corecting his mistakes. Your doing the right thing getting advise now. I am not an expert , just someone thats spent 20 years trying to live with a job poorly done. There is places on our road that the easement isnt wide enough to do it right. I hope you have enough room to make it right. You do have to be carefull about redirecting water on someone else land .Mike

 

[dirtyb115]

I live on a mile long geavel road. The crown is especially important on hills or long slopes . You have to prevent the water from running down the road and building in volume to the point it cuts ruts.
The ditches dont have to be any more than enough to handle the water shed. Its not easy to estimate how much water you will have. The flash flooding type rains are what do the damage.
We have had to change things and refine our road over the years. And we still get rains that do damage. If you get some hard rains you can get out there while the water is running and see what you have.
As for what equipment to use the people here that are in the bussiness can advise you better. The time and money spent doing it right the first time will pay off.
Our road was put in by a fly by night realestate broker. Its been a battle corecting his mistakes. Your doing the right thing getting advise now. I am not an expert , just someone thats spent 20 years trying to live with a job poorly done. There is places on our road that the easement isnt wide enough to do it right. I hope you have enough room to make it right. You do have to be carefull about redirecting water on someone else land .Mike

Thanks for the info mllud. Yeah, ive heard lots of horror stories, so im trying to do it right. (which would probably mean let someone else do it lol, but i did buy a bobcat to do things like this right.... .) I was thinking maybe a tiltach would be the way to go. Looks like some people use them to do ditches too???

 

[Idoitall]

Thanks for the info mllud. Yeah, ive heard lots of horror stories, so im trying to do it right. (which would probably mean let someone else do it lol, but i did buy a bobcat to do things like this right.... .) I was thinking maybe a tiltach would be the way to go. Looks like some people use them to do ditches too???

A 4/1 bucket with a Tilt-Tach would be Christmas come early!!!

 

[mllud]

Thanks for the info mllud. Yeah, ive heard lots of horror stories, so im trying to do it right. (which would probably mean let someone else do it lol, but i did buy a bobcat to do things like this right.... .) I was thinking maybe a tiltach would be the way to go. Looks like some people use them to do ditches too???

You bought the right Machine. My skidsteer is the most versatile machine Ive ever owned.
A tilt tach will help get your angle set to start cutting but as soon as your wheels are on the same plane you want You end up with your bucket level anyway. I hope if this doesnt make sence someone reading this can explain better.
To cut a ditch, I cut in from the side to get the grade at the pitch I want.Then I get in the ditch and continue to cut at that angle.
Before you invest in a tilt tach get advise from someone else here. For what your doing I dont think its that much help.
If you set an angle on a tilttach and continue in a straight line forward you will keep cutting deeper and deeper on the low side.I also dont know how durable they are for a lot of heavy cutting.
Someone please come on here and give this man some direction. Ive done my share of moving dirt but Im no expert. The tilttach may be the perfect tool. Mike
I more comfortable with a wrench in my hand, but love too play in the dirt.

 

[mllud]

You bought the right Machine. My skidsteer is the most versatile machine Ive ever owned.
A tilt tach will help get your angle set to start cutting but as soon as your wheels are on the same plane you want You end up with your bucket level anyway. I hope if this doesnt make sence someone reading this can explain better.
To cut a ditch, I cut in from the side to get the grade at the pitch I want.Then I get in the ditch and continue to cut at that angle.
Before you invest in a tilt tach get advise from someone else here. For what your doing I dont think its that much help.
If you set an angle on a tilttach and continue in a straight line forward you will keep cutting deeper and deeper on the low side.I also dont know how durable they are for a lot of heavy cutting.
Someone please come on here and give this man some direction. Ive done my share of moving dirt but Im no expert. The tilttach may be the perfect tool. Mike
I more comfortable with a wrench in my hand, but love too play in the dirt.

Idiotall Ive never got to try a 4 in1 bucket. I hear their great.

 

[Tazza]

Idiotall Ive never got to try a 4 in1 bucket. I hear their great.

*patts 4 in 1 bucket*
There is nothing it can't do!

 

[OldMachinist]

*patts 4 in 1 bucket*
There is nothing it can't do!

Here's a link for the US Dept. Transportation gravel road design manual.
http://ntl.bts.gov/lib/12000/12100/12188/20020819_gravelroads.pdf
I know everyone loves working with their Bobcats and try to do everything with them but putting a crown on a road is not something they're suited for. I maintain my 1/2 mile plus long driveway and several field roads and use a tractor with a grader blade. You can use the leveling adjustment to cut the crown and the ditches. If I was going to rent something to make a new road I would get a motor grader.

 

[dirtyb115]

Here's a link for the US Dept. Transportation gravel road design manual.
http://ntl.bts.gov/lib/12000/12100/12188/20020819_gravelroads.pdf
I know everyone loves working with their Bobcats and try to do everything with them but putting a crown on a road is not something they're suited for. I maintain my 1/2 mile plus long driveway and several field roads and use a tractor with a grader blade. You can use the leveling adjustment to cut the crown and the ditches. If I was going to rent something to make a new road I would get a motor grader.

thanks for the manual! Okay, so just get everything cut and level, then rent a grader to put the crown in?

 

[mllud]

thanks for the manual! Okay, so just get everything cut and level, then rent a grader to put the crown in?

Old Machinist. Thats great information. I saved it for future referance. Mike

 

[perry]

Old Machinist. Thats great information. I saved it for future referance. Mike

That is good info, saved as well. I guess road building is rocket science.......

 

[pondfishr]

That is good info, saved as well. I guess road building is rocket science.......

Thanks Old Machinist. I am always ready to read and learn. I also will keep this for referance. As soon as I can get done with a little project I am working on I have a new road here at home I want to build. This document should be a big help in planning.

 

[sterlclan]

Thanks Old Machinist. I am always ready to read and learn. I also will keep this for referance. As soon as I can get done with a little project I am working on I have a new road here at home I want to build. This document should be a big help in planning.

you can add the crown with a bobcat....make it flat and add material to the middle and backdrag......practice makes perfect.Jeff

 

[perry]

you can add the crown with a bobcat....make it flat and add material to the middle and backdrag......practice makes perfect.Jeff

you can add the crown with a bobcat....make it flat and add material to the middle and backdrag......practice makes perfect.Jeff

See!...you can do anything with a bobcat, just gotta find someone who's done it!........

 

[TriHonu]

you can add the crown with a bobcat....make it flat and add material to the middle and backdrag......practice makes perfect.Jeff






See!...you can do anything with a bobcat, just gotta find someone who's done it!........

While road crowning is most effectively done with a grader or dozer with a 6 way blade, it can also be done with a hand shovel. It just depends upon how much time you have...

Sterlclan is correct. I'll give the same answer in a little more detail.
Your current road profile probably has a couple of tire ruts worn in at this point.
The desired profile has a low slope to drain the water to the ditches and not down the road. This keeps the road from washing out or wash boarding from standing water.
First you need to make an initial ditch cut. Start where you can get the loader in the ditch and pointed toward the road centerline. Cut away the shoulder and dump the soil in the middle of the road. Move over and do it again. Make two or three cuts so you have at least 12 -15 feet of roadway with the ditch shoulder at the correct grade and the spoil piled in the middle of the road in a windrow.
Drive the loader back on to the road and drive on to your current cut pointing the loader down the road. The loader is now parked on the cross grade at the grade you just cut. Continue this grade down the road cutting the shoulder and turning and dumping it in the center of the road.
Do the other side of the road and also pile the spoil in the center of the road. Now you are ready to spread. Straddle the pile and back-drag displacing the pile toward both ditch shoulders. Once you have it smooth, move over and put your left tires on the windrow and the right tires on the grade you cut on the shoulder. Back drag again to feather the center windrow out toward the shoulder. Repeat on the other side of the road.
Obviously this can be done with a grader more effectively or even a two way drag blade on the back of a tractor. A Tilt-Tach can speed things up a little but is not required. The Tilt-Tach allows you to make the initial ditch cut while leaving the loader on the road. It also allows you a little more control when back dragging.

 

[TriHonu]

While road crowning is most effectively done with a grader or dozer with a 6 way blade, it can also be done with a hand shovel. It just depends upon how much time you have...
Sterlclan is correct. I'll give the same answer in a little more detail.
Your current road profile probably has a couple of tire ruts worn in at this point.
The desired profile has a low slope to drain the water to the ditches and not down the road. This keeps the road from washing out or wash boarding from standing water.
First you need to make an initial ditch cut. Start where you can get the loader in the ditch and pointed toward the road centerline. Cut away the shoulder and dump the soil in the middle of the road. Move over and do it again. Make two or three cuts so you have at least 12 -15 feet of roadway with the ditch shoulder at the correct grade and the spoil piled in the middle of the road in a windrow.
Drive the loader back on to the road and drive on to your current cut pointing the loader down the road. The loader is now parked on the cross grade at the grade you just cut. Continue this grade down the road cutting the shoulder and turning and dumping it in the center of the road.
Do the other side of the road and also pile the spoil in the center of the road. Now you are ready to spread. Straddle the pile and back-drag displacing the pile toward both ditch shoulders. Once you have it smooth, move over and put your left tires on the windrow and the right tires on the grade you cut on the shoulder. Back drag again to feather the center windrow out toward the shoulder. Repeat on the other side of the road.
Obviously this can be done with a grader more effectively or even a two way drag blade on the back of a tractor. A Tilt-Tach can speed things up a little but is not required. The Tilt-Tach allows you to make the initial ditch cut while leaving the loader on the road. It also allows you a little more control when back dragging.

If you are going to top it with gravel a toothed bucket will help you spread it in a controlled depth.
With a gravel windrow in the middle of the road use the teeth on the bucket as a depth guage to back drag leaving the 2-3 inches of gravel that will flow between the teeth. For the feathering, roll your bucket back and back drag with more of the back of the cutting edge.

 

[TriHonu]

If you are going to top it with gravel a toothed bucket will help you spread it in a controlled depth.
With a gravel windrow in the middle of the road use the teeth on the bucket as a depth guage to back drag leaving the 2-3 inches of gravel that will flow between the teeth. For the feathering, roll your bucket back and back drag with more of the back of the cutting edge.

One other thing, once you make the ditch cut and get up on the road to continue the grade, you will probably be making a shallow cut. It will be much easier to make this cut with about half of your bucket full of soil.
The load in the bucket will put more force on the cutting edge help keep it down in the cut instead of skidding along the surface. It is much easier to cut grade with a partial load in the bucket.

 

[sterlclan]

One other thing, once you make the ditch cut and get up on the road to continue the grade, you will probably be making a shallow cut. It will be much easier to make this cut with about half of your bucket full of soil.
The load in the bucket will put more force on the cutting edge help keep it down in the cut instead of skidding along the surface. It is much easier to cut grade with a partial load in the bucket.

I couldn't have said it better.......... sorry for the brief posts I only hunt and peck.....he owns the machine....use it. yes a grader or dozer is more effective but a bobcat is more fun...you can do anything with a skid sometimes it just takes longer....Jeff

 

[TriHonu]

I couldn't have said it better.......... sorry for the brief posts I only hunt and peck.....he owns the machine....use it. yes a grader or dozer is more effective but a bobcat is more fun...you can do anything with a skid sometimes it just takes longer....Jeff

No problem. I know what you meant, but I figured I could give him a more detailed answer.
I'm with you, "Use what you have, thats why you have it!" There are projects that are not cost or time effective to do with a skid steer, however that depends upon how much money you have compared to how much time you have.
I while back I suggested we add a Forum area for Machine Operation. This thread would fit in that area.
The more I watch others operate equipment the more I believe there are a few "Dirt Surgeons", many "Good Operators" and a lot of "Equipment Drivers" out there. I am well aware the more I learn about operation, the more I realize I don't know yet. Every time I get behind the controls I not only think about what I am trying to do, I pay attention to what the machine is doing and what the soil is doing at the cutting edge. It is all about getting better results whether that means: getting it done faster, more accurate, with a technique that causes less damage to the surrounding area, or safer than I have done it before.