Control valve overhaul or replace cartridge?

[BrianLS180]

I have an LS180 that the auxiliary hydraulics do not work due to them never being used. The rod that pushes the valve (only for aux- boom and bucket work fine) is very rusty and I don't want to force it for fear of tearing a seal. Has anyone ran into this issue? I would like to repair it so we can use a few different implements. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated This is my first post and the first place I have gone to ask this question, so if I make any newbie mistakes, plebe let me know. Thank you, Brian

 

[Mike10]

The first thing you need to do is make sure the linkage going to the valve is free and not binding. If you can pull the pin which attaches the link to the valve spool start there. If the pin is tight spray some penetrating oil on it and take a vice grip on the head and rotate the pin back and forth until it is free. Once the pin is out then work your aux handle to see if the rest of the linkage is free. The link you unpinned likes to freeze up at the other end where it is bolted to the pivot bracket. Also the pivot bracket has two bushings which rotate on the cross shaft. Be sure they are free. Once the linkage is free then you can work on the valve spool. Generally all you need to do is spray some lubricant on the spool where it enters the valve body. Then gently tap the spool inward and it should free itself from the oring which is holding it from moving. Even though the spool is now free it may not go into it's detent position so you may need to hold the handle in position when operating the aux hyd. You have three positions on the aux handle. Up, down, and pushing farther down will engage the detent so you do not need to hold the handle when you want continuous flow. If the detent does not work the back cap will need to be removed and the pins freed and lubricated. If you are not going to use the detent position don't bother with it.

 

[BrianLS180]

The first thing you need to do is make sure the linkage going to the valve is free and not binding. If you can pull the pin which attaches the link to the valve spool start there. If the pin is tight spray some penetrating oil on it and take a vice grip on the head and rotate the pin back and forth until it is free. Once the pin is out then work your aux handle to see if the rest of the linkage is free. The link you unpinned likes to freeze up at the other end where it is bolted to the pivot bracket. Also the pivot bracket has two bushings which rotate on the cross shaft. Be sure they are free. Once the linkage is free then you can work on the valve spool. Generally all you need to do is spray some lubricant on the spool where it enters the valve body. Then gently tap the spool inward and it should free itself from the oring which is holding it from moving. Even though the spool is now free it may not go into it's detent position so you may need to hold the handle in position when operating the aux hyd. You have three positions on the aux handle. Up, down, and pushing farther down will engage the detent so you do not need to hold the handle when you want continuous flow. If the detent does not work the back cap will need to be removed and the pins freed and lubricated. If you are not going to use the detent position don't bother with it.

Thank you Mike, I must have read your mind... I did just that earlier today and got it working... Well, sort of. I can move the valve spool in and out the only thing that worries me is the o ring because of the pits from the rust I sanded off. I can see a burr or something slicing the o ring and developing a leak later on. I can feel some resistance when it goes in (not out though) and some hydraulic fluid seems to seep out if i go in too far. I looked up removing the control valve in my downloaded service manual and it looks pretty easy to rebuild. May just pull that spool and replace with new and o ring if possible. I need to find a good supplier for new holland parts online if you know of any good ones. Have you ever disassembled the control valve to install new spools/o rings? Looks like the o rings can be done without pulling the whole control valve but I really think the spool should be replaced. The previous owners must have used it to load salt in the winter.... Thanks for all your help, Brian

 

[Mike10]

Thank you Mike, I must have read your mind... I did just that earlier today and got it working... Well, sort of. I can move the valve spool in and out the only thing that worries me is the o ring because of the pits from the rust I sanded off. I can see a burr or something slicing the o ring and developing a leak later on. I can feel some resistance when it goes in (not out though) and some hydraulic fluid seems to seep out if i go in too far. I looked up removing the control valve in my downloaded service manual and it looks pretty easy to rebuild. May just pull that spool and replace with new and o ring if possible. I need to find a good supplier for new holland parts online if you know of any good ones. Have you ever disassembled the control valve to install new spools/o rings? Looks like the o rings can be done without pulling the whole control valve but I really think the spool should be replaced. The previous owners must have used it to load salt in the winter.... Thanks for all your help, Brian

The spools are not replaceable. They are matched to the valve body.

 

[BrianLS180]

The spools are not replaceable. They are matched to the valve body.

Crap. Do you think the pits will cause a problem?

 

[Mike10]

Crap. Do you think the pits will cause a problem?

The oring is far enough inside the housing the pits generally do not cause a problem. All you can do is try it and see what happens.