Case 1845B Electrical troubleshooting

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Midwest Brian

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Joined
Jul 28, 2024
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My Case 1845B sat for a couple years while I fixed hydraulics. Now its dead when I try to start it. I hear nothing when I turn the key.
Here is what I've tried.

1. Battery giving out 12v+
2. Selenoid tests good according to online instructions.
3. Switch tests good continuity where it should.
4. Cables from battery to selenoid have been cleaned and are tight.
5. Not sure how/where seat switch should be connected or if it exists. Don't see anything attached to the seat. Tried connecting two wires, see pic. (1)

I put a voltmeter on the ignition switch battery connection and don't get anything there. I should, shouldn't I?

I don't know what any of the wires under the seat are for or where they should be connected.
 

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Do you hear the electric fuel pump running with the switch turned on? I have a 1845b also the connector of wires coming from the switch and lights runs to a junction that plugs in and run to the back of the machine in that junction sometime corrosion just like on a battery unplug that connector and look at all the terminals
 
Do you hear the electric fuel pump running with the switch turned on? I have a 1845b also the connector of wires coming from the switch and lights runs to a junction that plugs in and run to the back of the machine in that junction sometime corrosion just like on a battery unplug that connector and look at all the terminals
No noise whatsoever. I'll check, but shouldn't there be voltage at the battery wire for the switch? Nothing on that switch plug has voltage.
 
Yes there should be voltage and also your hot terminal coming from your alternator check there also and see do you have voltage. And also I would like for you to take a pair of jumper cables and hooked it to your battery in the machine and see what's what's what will happen
 
Hi
Few weeks ago I seat on my case sr200 open switch and nothing happend, no lights on panel, no fuel pump working, I checked main power switch and it is on, the battery is new (1 mounth ago), I bring my power bank, connect to the battery and switch on, engine start and runing,
Try this, maybe it will help you.
 
Yes there should be voltage and also your hot terminal coming from your alternator check there also and see do you have voltage. And also I would like for you to take a pair of jumper cables and hooked it to your battery in the machine and see what's what's what will happen
 
Yes there should be voltage and also your hot terminal coming from your alternator check there also and see do you have voltage. And also I would like for you to take a pair of jumper cables and hooked it to your battery in the machine and see what's what's what will happen
13.46v at the alternator. Jumper cables make no difference.

Also, the fuse on the panel is good.
 
13.46v at the alternator. Jumper cables make no difference.

Also, the fuse on the panel is good.
I have one more thing that I can think of that I want you to try. I know you said your battery is showing that it is charged up. But it might sound farfetched. But I would like for you to just try another battery out of a vehicle that is starting up thanks
 
Second picture, item #1 that you have circled look like the harness and connectors that connect to the air filter restriction sensor.

I have never laid eyes on an 1845B, but going off your pictures it looks a lot like an 1835B. The 1835B has a major harness connector kind off the the right of the front of the engine. If your battery is not the problem I would check that connector if it exists. Also, I do believe the 1845B used the same 188D engine that the 1835B used, and I have noted that it is a common problem on the 188D equipped 1835Bs that there is too much voltage drop from the battery - to the instrument panel and key - and back to the starter solenoid to pull the starter solenoid in. Even with a fairly healthy battery it is possible to be below 8V at the solenoid with the key in the crank position and at some point the voltage isn't high enough to pull the coil in. If that problem exists, there will be no solenoid click when the key is turned to "crank".
 
Second picture, item #1 that you have circled look like the harness and connectors that connect to the air filter restriction sensor.

I have never laid eyes on an 1845B, but going off your pictures it looks a lot like an 1835B. The 1835B has a major harness connector kind off the the right of the front of the engine. If your battery is not the problem I would check that connector if it exists. Also, I do believe the 1845B used the same 188D engine that the 1835B used, and I have noted that it is a common problem on the 188D equipped 1835Bs that there is too much voltage drop from the battery - to the instrument panel and key - and back to the starter solenoid to pull the starter solenoid in. Even with a fairly healthy battery it is possible to be below 8V at the solenoid with the key in the crank position and at some point the voltage isn't high enough to pull the coil in. If that problem exists, there will be no solenoid click when the key is turned to "crank".
I'm confused by having no voltage at the ignition switch. Even if the battery is bad, wouldn't I get some voltage there?

Thanks to all that have assisted. I will be busy working on organizing an anniversary party for my parents, so will not be working on this for a week.
 
Bought a new battery and hooked it up. No difference.
1. I plan on removing every connection on the harness, shine up, reconnect.
2. If anyone knows of a seat switch, please let me know, because I don't see anything on mine right now.
 
No idea about 1845 but my 1830, which admittedly looks like it has been rewired no less than half a dozen times, the ignition switch is wired to provide ground to activate a relay that then activates the solenoid. I would just bypass the solenoid all together and connect battery directly to the starter (for just a second) and make sure the starter works then work back from that.
 
Always use a fuse off battery to any key switch or components or disaster fire occurs.
Disconnect battery if it was rewired wonky or dangerous may set fire to garage.
I have seen so so many whacky wonky horrific wiring done on older machines.

Take the time to make a new good harness solder connections with heavy gage wires in a loom to protect it.
Not that difficult on older simple machines unlike today.
I just changed a newer
CAT 289 harness $2500 Dozens of wires complex ECM plugs .
20 years from now those machines will not be able to be fixed because of ultra high tech electrical stuff.
 
Always use a fuse off battery to any key switch or components or disaster fire occurs.
Disconnect battery if it was rewired wonky or dangerous may set fire to garage.
I have seen so so many whacky wonky horrific wiring done on older machines.

Take the time to make a new good harness solder connections with heavy gage wires in a loom to protect it.
Not that difficult on older simple machines unlike today.
I just changed a newer
CAT 289 harness $2500 Dozens of wires complex ECM plugs .
20 years from now those machines will not be able to be fixed because of ultra high tech electrical stuff.
Mine has a 20 amp fuse, so good there. Thanks.
 
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