The retaining washer with 3 bolts that hold the hub on my s-250 rear Axel worked loose recently and was driven for a while before I noticed it. As you would expect, the keyway slot has become wallowed out from being sloppy. This had happened one time previously about 6 years ago, not long after I purchased the machine. {probably the reason the previous owner sold it?). At that time I actually cut a new key notch on the opposite side of the Axel with grinder 'files etc and got it to fit tight. I purchased a used hub and figured I did not have much to lose other than cost of used hub.. About a year ago I replaced leaking seal on that Axel and to my surprise it was still holding tight. Not sure if I did not re torque 3 bolts good enough at that time cause in the most recent episode, the hub & wheel actually fell off while digging. (Should have kept an eye on the torque on those 3 bolts!) The hub key slot is still tight but Axel key slot is toast and the 3 bolts had been loose long enough that the threads in end of Axel are somewhat damaged. they held to get it back on in the field and drive it home, but its time to replace the Axel. Last winter had new drive chains installed. The dealer said sprockets are good and bearings were tight. Now to my question!
1. Looking under cab it appears I may have to remove some large hydraulic lines that attach to main hyd pump to access rear Axel sprocket along with a few other steering linkages , etc. Will I need to drain hydraulic system or will just a bit of oil that is in the lines & pump spill out? How messy will this be as I don't want hyd oil all over the shop floor? It does not appear there will be a good way to catch it. maybe it will all run down to the bottom near chain case drain where I could catch it or should I do this on the gravel? once I tear this thing open, it's not moving.
2. Will a conventional socket with a 3/4 " breaker bar fit between Axel sprockets to loosen the bolt that holds everything together in chain case or will I need a large ratcheting box end wrench. planning on needing a cheater too.
3. Can a couple of bottle jacks against side of machine pressing out against hub push Axel out of inner bearing as I've seen on some u-tube videos? They were used on a smaller 763 machine in the video, assume it will work on an s-250? The other option is get a port-a power to push it out..
4. Plan to use inner sprocket bolt ( or somewhat longer temp bolt) to pull Axel back on to inner bearing when re-installing?
5. Figured I'd inspect bearings/cups when removed. If inner race and bearing look good may just re-use.
Might have to replace outer if damaged in removal. Thought with limited space might be tough to re-install inner race. I saw a video of a mechanic putting the cups in dry ice before reinstalling to make the go in easier and also heating outer bearing in hot oil to facilitate reinstalling on Axel shaft since it slides on from inner spline part of Axel. I've installed lots of pressed bearings over the years, so not too worried about that part of job, but thought those were good tips.
Any thoughts or comments are appreciated even if they say I'm crazy for attempting this repair. Dealer quoted bout $1,500 labor to do this. Do not mind having to purchase some tools for this job as needed. thanks for reading
This guy makes it look easy on a smaller machine.
1. Looking under cab it appears I may have to remove some large hydraulic lines that attach to main hyd pump to access rear Axel sprocket along with a few other steering linkages , etc. Will I need to drain hydraulic system or will just a bit of oil that is in the lines & pump spill out? How messy will this be as I don't want hyd oil all over the shop floor? It does not appear there will be a good way to catch it. maybe it will all run down to the bottom near chain case drain where I could catch it or should I do this on the gravel? once I tear this thing open, it's not moving.
2. Will a conventional socket with a 3/4 " breaker bar fit between Axel sprockets to loosen the bolt that holds everything together in chain case or will I need a large ratcheting box end wrench. planning on needing a cheater too.
3. Can a couple of bottle jacks against side of machine pressing out against hub push Axel out of inner bearing as I've seen on some u-tube videos? They were used on a smaller 763 machine in the video, assume it will work on an s-250? The other option is get a port-a power to push it out..
4. Plan to use inner sprocket bolt ( or somewhat longer temp bolt) to pull Axel back on to inner bearing when re-installing?
5. Figured I'd inspect bearings/cups when removed. If inner race and bearing look good may just re-use.
Might have to replace outer if damaged in removal. Thought with limited space might be tough to re-install inner race. I saw a video of a mechanic putting the cups in dry ice before reinstalling to make the go in easier and also heating outer bearing in hot oil to facilitate reinstalling on Axel shaft since it slides on from inner spline part of Axel. I've installed lots of pressed bearings over the years, so not too worried about that part of job, but thought those were good tips.
Any thoughts or comments are appreciated even if they say I'm crazy for attempting this repair. Dealer quoted bout $1,500 labor to do this. Do not mind having to purchase some tools for this job as needed. thanks for reading
This guy makes it look easy on a smaller machine.
