Bobcat 763 Leaking Hyd. fluid Question

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mini

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Feb 26, 2010
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Hi All My beat up Bobcat needs some attention, I believe the leak is coming from a valve, it's the valve that has a red knob inside the cab on the right hand side, I am not sure what it does as it feels almost seized and looks bent, from the day I bought the machine, so I never ever used it or tried? Is it common for this valve to leak? is it expensive? is it difficult to replace it myself, or can it be rebuilt? Thanks Mini
 

Bobcatdan

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The vavle is for lowering the boom in case the engine dies. Most people don't know its there, therefore its never used and rust tight. Can they leak, yes just like anything else. Big thing here, if you remove it with the boom up, make god damn sure the boom stop is in because the boom will come down!
 
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mini

mini

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The vavle is for lowering the boom in case the engine dies. Most people don't know its there, therefore its never used and rust tight. Can they leak, yes just like anything else. Big thing here, if you remove it with the boom up, make god damn sure the boom stop is in because the boom will come down!
Thanks for the good safety information, good to know another way this thing could kill me, I am going to take a closer look at the valve, and hopefully find it in the service manual, I have to give you guys credit to be wrenching on these beasts everyday that's for sure. Thanks Mini
 

Tazza

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Thanks for the good safety information, good to know another way this thing could kill me, I am going to take a closer look at the valve, and hopefully find it in the service manual, I have to give you guys credit to be wrenching on these beasts everyday that's for sure. Thanks Mini
I actually repaired one of these valves a few months ago. They are pretty simple. If they are expensive, you may be able to repair it.
The only tricky part was getting the spring back in the right place. You may need a helper as i did, it wasn't fun, but my dad and I got it sorted out and it worked great.
 

farmshop

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I actually repaired one of these valves a few months ago. They are pretty simple. If they are expensive, you may be able to repair it.
The only tricky part was getting the spring back in the right place. You may need a helper as i did, it wasn't fun, but my dad and I got it sorted out and it worked great.
is it actually leaking out around the stem where the n knob is or the valve body underneath.
 
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mini

mini

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I actually repaired one of these valves a few months ago. They are pretty simple. If they are expensive, you may be able to repair it.
The only tricky part was getting the spring back in the right place. You may need a helper as i did, it wasn't fun, but my dad and I got it sorted out and it worked great.
I looked in the repair manual, and there does seem to be a seal kit for it, but This one looks to be in really rough shape, the pin is really bent over, and It might be seized, as I have never been able to move it, for fear it would just break off, The leak appears to be on the underside somewhere, I am fairly certain, I placed some paper towel under it, closed the cab and let it run for a few minutes, the paper towel had about a 3" diameter wet spot of clean hydraulic oil on it, and everything underneath it is soaked with oil, so I believe it has to be that valve or a line, going into it, ?
 

Tazza

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I looked in the repair manual, and there does seem to be a seal kit for it, but This one looks to be in really rough shape, the pin is really bent over, and It might be seized, as I have never been able to move it, for fear it would just break off, The leak appears to be on the underside somewhere, I am fairly certain, I placed some paper towel under it, closed the cab and let it run for a few minutes, the paper towel had about a 3" diameter wet spot of clean hydraulic oil on it, and everything underneath it is soaked with oil, so I believe it has to be that valve or a line, going into it, ?
There is a seal holding the oil back from that shaft. You may be able to straighten the shaft to get it to work if you are so motivated.
It does sound like the valve may be the cause of the leak, it has a line to it that is under high pressure.
 
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mini

mini

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There is a seal holding the oil back from that shaft. You may be able to straighten the shaft to get it to work if you are so motivated.
It does sound like the valve may be the cause of the leak, it has a line to it that is under high pressure.
Well I finally got around to for sure determining the leak is coming from the valve, and it sure is, leaking out, a lot, I ordered the new valve, instead of just a seal kit, this thing is really rusty, and it should be here in a few days, I was wondering when I remove the two hydraulic lines, from the old valve, will oil continue to leak out? should I a plug them, while I am preparing the new valve with the old fittings? maybe have some corks or something ready,? this thing has already made an environmental leaking mess on my property, as it is, I don't need anymore spilled oil !!
 

Tazza

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Well I finally got around to for sure determining the leak is coming from the valve, and it sure is, leaking out, a lot, I ordered the new valve, instead of just a seal kit, this thing is really rusty, and it should be here in a few days, I was wondering when I remove the two hydraulic lines, from the old valve, will oil continue to leak out? should I a plug them, while I am preparing the new valve with the old fittings? maybe have some corks or something ready,? this thing has already made an environmental leaking mess on my property, as it is, I don't need anymore spilled oil !!
You will get some oil coming oit, but it won't be really fast i don't believe.
I'd not use corks as you will get particles fall off, you don't want that in the system. If anything, pieces of rag to plug them if you don't have propper caps. Ensure the rags come out! people have forgotten before, so it's not as silly as it sounds.
 

7LBSSMALLIE

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The vavle is for lowering the boom in case the engine dies. Most people don't know its there, therefore its never used and rust tight. Can they leak, yes just like anything else. Big thing here, if you remove it with the boom up, make god damn sure the boom stop is in because the boom will come down!
about 75 bucks. yea you need it
 
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mini

mini

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the bobcat dealers up here in Canada make a little mo money about $140 up here
Thanks for all the help, I was able to replace the arm release valve and it appears ok, my only issue is there is still some oil leaking out from under the bobcat, a week later, I added about 4 quarts of hyd. oil, and it's still low, so the old valve did leak a ton lot of oil into the belly of the machine, Is it possible that it could be holding oil in the belly , and will take time to fully drain, or do you think I still have another leak somewhere?
 

TriHonu

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Thanks for all the help, I was able to replace the arm release valve and it appears ok, my only issue is there is still some oil leaking out from under the bobcat, a week later, I added about 4 quarts of hyd. oil, and it's still low, so the old valve did leak a ton lot of oil into the belly of the machine, Is it possible that it could be holding oil in the belly , and will take time to fully drain, or do you think I still have another leak somewhere?
Did you clean out the hull when you had the cab up? There should be two drain holes. They are next to the chain case in the rear corner. Every time you get the belly on the ground you will push dirt/mud up into the hull. The last time I cleaned mine out, I had hardened clay 'snakes' piled up in the hull. If the drain holes are plugged, you could have gallons of oil soaked debris in the hull. When I bought my loader, I was surprised how much dirt was in the bottom of the hull. This was after the dealer steam cleaned it. I used a long prybar to break it into chunks. Pulled out the chunks by hand and then used a shop vac to get most of the rest of it. Once I found the drain holes, I blocked up the front of the loader and washed out the hull with degreaser and a pressure washer. The hardest area to clean was the area in the hull under the pedals area. I spent hours cleaning out my hull and the area under the motor. If you don't keep the area under the motor clean, you can wear holes in the oil pan or fuel tank. It can be hard to find oil leaks when everything is covered in oil. For me, the older the equipment, the cleaner it needs to be to monitor the little leaks that eventually show up. I helped with a repair on a 753 that was owned by a concrete company. The machine was only a few years old. Not only was the hull loaded with dried mud, you could hardly move the pedals. The pedal wells were full of dirt and concrete pellets up to the bottom of the pedals. The machine was seriously neglected. They told us to leave it since they didn't want to pay us to clean it out.
 
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mini

mini

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Did you clean out the hull when you had the cab up? There should be two drain holes. They are next to the chain case in the rear corner. Every time you get the belly on the ground you will push dirt/mud up into the hull. The last time I cleaned mine out, I had hardened clay 'snakes' piled up in the hull. If the drain holes are plugged, you could have gallons of oil soaked debris in the hull. When I bought my loader, I was surprised how much dirt was in the bottom of the hull. This was after the dealer steam cleaned it. I used a long prybar to break it into chunks. Pulled out the chunks by hand and then used a shop vac to get most of the rest of it. Once I found the drain holes, I blocked up the front of the loader and washed out the hull with degreaser and a pressure washer. The hardest area to clean was the area in the hull under the pedals area. I spent hours cleaning out my hull and the area under the motor. If you don't keep the area under the motor clean, you can wear holes in the oil pan or fuel tank. It can be hard to find oil leaks when everything is covered in oil. For me, the older the equipment, the cleaner it needs to be to monitor the little leaks that eventually show up. I helped with a repair on a 753 that was owned by a concrete company. The machine was only a few years old. Not only was the hull loaded with dried mud, you could hardly move the pedals. The pedal wells were full of dirt and concrete pellets up to the bottom of the pedals. The machine was seriously neglected. They told us to leave it since they didn't want to pay us to clean it out.
No I did not clean the hull, after I replaced the valve, but it was very wet with oil when I looked down there, I assumed it would just drain out on it own, OK Drain plugs, in the hull, that makes sense, I will try to find drain plugs and clean it out, for sure
 

HarryN

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Aug 28, 2011
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No I did not clean the hull, after I replaced the valve, but it was very wet with oil when I looked down there, I assumed it would just drain out on it own, OK Drain plugs, in the hull, that makes sense, I will try to find drain plugs and clean it out, for sure
On my 763, under the machine between the chain case and fuel tank there is a small metal plate cover with 3 bolts holding it in place. Take that plate off and it should drain well from there.
 

bobcatguy

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Oct 31, 2014
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No I did not clean the hull, after I replaced the valve, but it was very wet with oil when I looked down there, I assumed it would just drain out on it own, OK Drain plugs, in the hull, that makes sense, I will try to find drain plugs and clean it out, for sure
Sorry if this is a duplicate but it didn't look like my reply posted. There are two drain holes ahead of the plate with 3 screws in it. The holes are sort of triangular and are just behind the rear axle housings at the bottom of the belly pan. Get them cleaned out then wash out the pan. The holes are just beside the chain case that runs through the center of the machine.
 
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mini

mini

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Got the new valve installed and it solved the leaked, The hull finally drained out on it's own one drop at a time and stopped, ( took about a month ) Thanks for all the help,
 

bobbie-g

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Got the new valve installed and it solved the leaked, The hull finally drained out on it's own one drop at a time and stopped, ( took about a month ) Thanks for all the help,
Mini, there are those two drain holes mentioned in this thread. They're at the back of the large voids on either side of the chain case. Those should be open all the time for drainage. That area accumulated dirt and stick, so the holes are probably just clogged. Poke around on the "floor" of the belly from the top with a piece of rebar. You wanna be clear against the "back wall", right on the "floor" and up against the outside "wall", on each side. The plate underneath held with three bolts is an access port for the chain case and fuel tank drains. That area usually just accumulates some dirt. Careful if you remove it and poke around in there, as you could disturb the drain plugs (just a steel plug in a rubber grommet). Once you get the two drain holes opened up, you can easily hose out the entire area under the cab. :) ---Bobbie G
 
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