Hello, I am a home owner with some large home construction projects and need a machine for light to moderate use. The plan is to use it for 1-2 years and sell it after the work is complete (and hopefully get most of our money back). We found a a 2002 Bobcat 753G in the area for $7000. Take a look at the pictures here (might have to copy and paste the address in your address bar) http://zurv.com/griffe/bobcat/ One Tire is splitting and needs to be replaced, the other 2 tires are low on thread, and 1 tire is good condition. Questions: 1) How can I make sure its an 02' model? It doesn't say anywhere.. 2) It has 2 new air filters, new oil filter, and a new smaller filter (what is it for again? Water?) 3) What do you think about the price? 4) Anything I should check on the machine? 5) If something other than the filters, oil, wheels need to be replaced, what would be probably be? I am trying to understand what the next/moderately expensive replacement would be? If anyone could lend some assistance I would be truly grateful! -Griffe
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There should be... 6 filters. Two air, inner and outer. Hydraulic oil, engine oil and two case drain filters that you need to lift the cab to access.
As for the year, too many people get hung up on that. Year beans very little in the earth moving area, you want to know the hours and how much ear it has. You can have a 2,000 hour machine thats in perfect condition and a 400 hour machine that is bugerd. If it was greased and serviced regularly a higher hour and older model will be a far better buy than a newer low hour machine that has every moving part worn out.
I'm not too sure on the price as i live in Australia, it does look a bit beat up. Iit depends on the hours and amount of wear it has. Does the engine start easily? does it smoke under load? start it from stone cold, see if it pours out smoke. Rest the bucket on the ground and tilt back and forth looking at how much play there is at the pivot points.
If you want to know the year, you can call your local dealer and they can give you a pretty close year on it from the serial number.
As for the year, too many people get hung up on that. Year beans very little in the earth moving area, you want to know the hours and how much ear it has. You can have a 2,000 hour machine thats in perfect condition and a 400 hour machine that is bugerd. If it was greased and serviced regularly a higher hour and older model will be a far better buy than a newer low hour machine that has every moving part worn out.
I'm not too sure on the price as i live in Australia, it does look a bit beat up. Iit depends on the hours and amount of wear it has. Does the engine start easily? does it smoke under load? start it from stone cold, see if it pours out smoke. Rest the bucket on the ground and tilt back and forth looking at how much play there is at the pivot points.
If you want to know the year, you can call your local dealer and they can give you a pretty close year on it from the serial number.
Thanks for the answers! Its got 1600/hrs. I dont think the case drain filters were changed in about a year? It seems the most recent owner didn't grease (About a year 1/2). Some the the 'joints?' had grease, some such as the curl coupling had no grease. Infact on the curl coupler, I couldn't find a Grease Zert? Did it get broken off? I am looking at the part that connects to the bucket.. Also - the two zerts in the back (for the arms) were very hard to pump... The times that I was able to pump I didn't see any start to appear around the joint... There was some older grease there but after 8 or so pumps I didn't see anything new... The hoses under the hood seemed fine - it was a little wet around a few but didn't look like a major problem. Also - When trying to dig some dirt I was able to stall it out very quickly... I assume the fork was stuck under a root and started to lift the rear of the machine but then 'Died'. Is this something I should worry about? I would think it should be able to lift itself without issue? It was used for CONCRETE by the previous owner (That's why there are weights on the rear wheels).
Also - I cant find the grease zert near the coupling that connects to the bucket...? Where should it be?
It should not stall, lifting the rear wheels off the ground is ok, but it should keep running.
As for the grease nipple, i assume you are talking about the one on the bobtach that tilts the bucket forward and back? the grease nipple is usually inside the pin, check the end of the pin opposite the bolt. There should be a recess and it should be in there to protect it from being shered off. If its not there, someone has changed pins and not installed the correct one.
By the looks of it, I doubt like h*ll the case drains have EVER been changed. Tazza forgot the fuel filter in his list. That's what the smaller filter is. Bucket sure looks HUGE. Machine might be just what you need, hard to tell. $7000 is pretty reasonable unless JUNK. I have a gut feeling that a nicer machine, while costing more, would be easier to re-sell when done, but I guess I really don't know. I had a 2000 753 G that had the absolute best of care, and it was hard to stall out, but I didn't have a bucket way too big, either. (I traded mine for a bigger machine). Call your dealer with serial no. They will tell you the year. As far as the next big expense--change the case drain filters. If they are clean (unless recently changed to hide the evidence), then I wouldn't sweat worrying about it. I would get all grease zerks working ASAP. Lack of grease and oil changes will destroy an otherwise nice machine. A machine that looks rough has had rough (poor) care, and personally I'd run the other way (but I use my machines to earn a living) and keep looking. Check the chaincase oil. Is it milky?(water contamination). If so, that isn't good. Change it ASAP. Smooth tires doesn't matter much; they are actually better for not tearing up lawns and the like. If you are just testing it out, put cutting edge against a curb and push the sticks ahead. It should take a lot to eventually stall it out. If it "slips" or stalls easily--well, I hope you haven't bought it yet! I think a G will have a controller. All my G's did. Any dealer can hook up their laptop and see what codes pop up. That is a very reliable indication of problems and care the machine has had.
Tazza - There is a recess - but nothing to connect the gun to... I think its the wrong pin! Any idea which part I need? And how to replace it?
Dave - I think your right, doubt the case drains have been changed (is that the same as case filters?) --- The owner purchased this larger bucket with teeth, do you think its too big for this model? --- To check the chaincase oil I take the [ ] shaped bolt out of the bottom front correct? Nothing should come out, then dip my finger in and see if its milky?? --- Thanks so much for the help!
the tilt pin came in two different ways , one the grease fitting was in the end of the chrome rod and the pin was solid , it is possible that the rod was installed up side down and you can't see the fitting , the other was with the fitting in the end of the pin , the solid pin is better as the one with the grease journal thru it had a tendency to break right thru the middle of the grease hole ----------call the dealer with the serial number and they will give you the year , I think you can do better for 7,000
skidsteer.ca
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It would be a early G series so 99-2003 and the newer ones became S130.
The lack of grease or grease nipples would concern me, check the pins for slack, the lower ones behind the bucket can hold alot of grease if they are not greased regularly. A squeaking pin is always doing damage. Sounds like out of ignorance as seller is not trying to hide it, hopefully he has not owned it too long.
Hopefully it had air filter on oil changes when needed.
Bucket should be 60" wide.
I would also try to have a dealer pull up the codes from the computers. However there can also be codes set from malfunctioning sensors, so if you see a whole bunch on the same code it could be that too.
Ken
Check the pin with a piece of wire or screwdriver, the grease nipple may have been torn out? you should be able to screw a new one in. If not, you may need to buy a new one, you can't use it without being greased....
skidsteer.ca
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I have to post pics later but (cam got left at the lake) but i looked at a s130 with 1300 hours that is the roughest I have ever seen. Cab is smashed down so bad from going into low clearance areas that the guages are busted loose inside and the rear side window blown out. The tailgate and rear frame towers have most of the paint rubbed off. All lights are broken out. It should be in a thread called what not to buy. and strangely enough I kinda want it, I know its a sickness!
Ken
skidsteer.ca - you should get it
I must thank you for you replies.. I think im actually learning something! I went ahead and removed the bolt from the lower front of the unit... When I did nothing came out... If I dipped my finger in the hole I couldn't feel anything... There was no level ground, so i tried another area where the machine leaned forward slightly. This time when I removed the cap oil came out... How does it look? Not milky? See video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DhR2lPcu3dEAlso - when turning on a dime you see some grey smoke.. not a lot.. just a bit.. Check out some of the videos here - I think you'll enjoy them - Btw- that's not me drivingskidsteer.ca - you should get it
Driving Around: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3HC66CoMU1I Spinning on a dime: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=20uqtsqGMDA Picking up heavy load: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ClB8nzi68IY Chain Oil Plug: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DhR2lPcu3dE
