bobcat 751 tilt cylinder

[StephenD1948]

the eye on the bob-tach plate is worn where the tilt cylinder attaches, how do you remove the play? Does it have bushing or does it need to bored and bushing that fits the pin installed?

 

[flyerdan]

The pin isn't supposed to move in the bob-tach frame, so it will probably need to be punched out big enough for a weld in bushing to bring it back into spec. The hard part will be keeping everything in line so there won't be a bind. I think that Tazza came up with a gyppo line boring arrangement for doing a bob-tach, although it was for the bottom pivots.
I know how I'd go about it with two hole saws and a custom mandrel, but it's rather difficult to describe without illustrations.

 

[Tazza]

The pin isn't supposed to move in the bob-tach frame, so it will probably need to be punched out big enough for a weld in bushing to bring it back into spec. The hard part will be keeping everything in line so there won't be a bind. I think that Tazza came up with a gyppo line boring arrangement for doing a bob-tach, although it was for the bottom pivots.
I know how I'd go about it with two hole saws and a custom mandrel, but it's rather difficult to describe without illustrations.

The eye of the cylinder should have a buching installed, the boss that the pin goes througn on the actual bobtach, as flyerdan said shoud never move to wear out so they do not have bushings. He is spot on that i made a boring bar with an old rail drill, cleaned up the holes and insalled a sleeve.
Not everyone has access to a line boring setup, you may need to call a machine shop and see if they can help out if you don't have gear to do it yourself.

 

[StephenD1948]

The pin isn't supposed to move in the bob-tach frame, so it will probably need to be punched out big enough for a weld in bushing to bring it back into spec. The hard part will be keeping everything in line so there won't be a bind. I think that Tazza came up with a gyppo line boring arrangement for doing a bob-tach, although it was for the bottom pivots.
I know how I'd go about it with two hole saws and a custom mandrel, but it's rather difficult to describe without illustrations.

thank you

 

[rodbuilder]

Makita and Milwaukee make a BIG electric die grinder that will handle a 3/8 shank carbide burr that you can use to grind out the hole, big enough to put a new bushing in the quick tach. It takes 2 hands to handle that thing!!! Grind, then check and repeat that until it will fit, then tack weld it into place. Take your time because that tool will REALLY remove some metal!!! If you grease the eye on the cylinder like you're supposed to do, you'll never have to replace the bushing again!