Bobcat 533 new owner, Need help

[ymurf]

Hello all, I am new here and found this place while looking up information on a Bobcat 533 Skid steer. I bought this machine from a guy I work with. He bought it non running and took motor apart and never got around to fixing it after having two kids he had no time. What he found was no compression cause the rings are stuck in the pistons. I bought it last weekend and been trying to research info on it but cant find much online. I looked engine over tonight and cylinders look good but rings are stuck in pistons. Going to soak them in hopes of freeing them up so I can get them off. This is an Isuzu 2aa1 2 cylinder diesel. It looks to have been refreshed at some time as it has over size barrings. No cylinder bore though. I am going to take the head to machine shop and have it refreshed after I get valve seals for it. Where is the best place to get engine parts for this? Through Bobcat? Also going to put rings and barrings and gasket set with head gasket. Cant find allot of options out there for the engine parts.Anyone here have a 533? When I go to put this back together I could sure use some pictures of how everything assembles on it like alternator and stuff since I am not the one that took it apart. I don't know much about diesel engines. I gave $2000 for it hoping I got a good deal? Any help on where to get parts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for any help. here are some pics.

 

[SkidRoe]

I am thinking that Bobcat would be a last resort for parts based on price, but sometimes they do surprise you.
It looks like Iseki used these engines in some of their compact tractors, my be worth researching.
HTH - SR

 

[ymurf]

I am thinking that Bobcat would be a last resort for parts based on price, but sometimes they do surprise you.
It looks like Iseki used these engines in some of their compact tractors, my be worth researching.
HTH - SR

I called Dessco tonight and they can get the gasket set and rings but he said Isuzu don't have 0.25 main barrings and my rod barring is 1.00 and he said that's not even an option from Isuzu. Hope I aint screwed.

 

[Tazza]

I called Dessco tonight and they can get the gasket set and rings but he said Isuzu don't have 0.25 main barrings and my rod barring is 1.00 and he said that's not even an option from Isuzu. Hope I aint screwed.

Worst case, you can always get the bearing surfaces built up by spray welding, but that would be a last resort, as i bet it won't be cheap.

 

[ymurf]

Worst case, you can always get the bearing surfaces built up by spray welding, but that would be a last resort, as i bet it won't be cheap.

Found some bearings finally on ebay.Anyone know where I can get an ignition switch for this? I have no keys. Does anyone here have a 533? Need to see some pictures.

 

[Tazza]

Found some bearings finally on ebay.Anyone know where I can get an ignition switch for this? I have no keys. Does anyone here have a 533? Need to see some pictures.

No reason why you can't get a new key switch. Bobcat have switches/keys, it may not be the same as you have now, but you can wire it up to work.
Ebay will have switches too

 

[ymurf]

No reason why you can't get a new key switch. Bobcat have switches/keys, it may not be the same as you have now, but you can wire it up to work.
Ebay will have switches too

I finally have the engine rebuilt and back in.Picked up all the fluids to fill everything up..Now working on the wiring nightmare. I dont know much about the electric side of things and have to rewire the ignition. Just have to figure what wire goes where on the ignition switch. If I can figure all that out I am going to try and start it tomorrow.

 

[ymurf]

I finally have the engine rebuilt and back in.Picked up all the fluids to fill everything up..Now working on the wiring nightmare. I dont know much about the electric side of things and have to rewire the ignition. Just have to figure what wire goes where on the ignition switch. If I can figure all that out I am going to try and start it tomorrow.

Well got it all wired up and fluids filled. I am guessing it got water in the hydraulic tank from sitting outside for over 5 years cause when I filled it and started it the hydraulic oil which is motor oil turned real milky. Everything seemed to work ok though. I ran it about an hour moving some gravel and seems to be whining more than when I first got it running. Guessing its caused by the milky fluid.I guess I need to get the water out of the hydraulic fluid. From wheat I have read on here sounds like I may have to drain and refill several times. I noticed it when I went to re pack the lift cylinders.The fluid in them was real milky.

 

[mmsllc]

Well got it all wired up and fluids filled. I am guessing it got water in the hydraulic tank from sitting outside for over 5 years cause when I filled it and started it the hydraulic oil which is motor oil turned real milky. Everything seemed to work ok though. I ran it about an hour moving some gravel and seems to be whining more than when I first got it running. Guessing its caused by the milky fluid.I guess I need to get the water out of the hydraulic fluid. From wheat I have read on here sounds like I may have to drain and refill several times. I noticed it when I went to re pack the lift cylinders.The fluid in them was real milky.

Drain the hydraulic tank. Then top it off. Crack a hydraulic fitting on an easy to get to hydraulic cylinder. operate that hydraulic line function until you it to run as clear as you can. You may waste a good amount of hydraulic fluid, but just remember that rebuilding the hydraulics on these machines is not cheap either. If you have any leaking hydraulic cylinders right now, leave them in place. Even that leak will help get the old milky fluid out = one drop at a time. Just be sure to carry plenty of fluid with you at all times. don't forget to change your filter when you drain your tank. The filter holds about a quart of fluid or so.

 

[Tazza]

Drain the hydraulic tank. Then top it off. Crack a hydraulic fitting on an easy to get to hydraulic cylinder. operate that hydraulic line function until you it to run as clear as you can. You may waste a good amount of hydraulic fluid, but just remember that rebuilding the hydraulics on these machines is not cheap either. If you have any leaking hydraulic cylinders right now, leave them in place. Even that leak will help get the old milky fluid out = one drop at a time. Just be sure to carry plenty of fluid with you at all times. don't forget to change your filter when you drain your tank. The filter holds about a quart of fluid or so.

Good to hear it's up and running.
Get the water out as soon as you can. I have had this happen before too, get some cheap oil to do the flushing, then the last one or two cahnges, use the oil you want to keep running in it.
Good point about the oil filter, it holds a fair amount, drain it each time, the last oil change, install a new filter.
It also helps to dump what oil you can, then fill and drive it around, it will move the fluid around to mix in as much as possible, then dump it.

 

[ryantowry_81]

Good to hear it's up and running.
Get the water out as soon as you can. I have had this happen before too, get some cheap oil to do the flushing, then the last one or two cahnges, use the oil you want to keep running in it.
Good point about the oil filter, it holds a fair amount, drain it each time, the last oil change, install a new filter.
It also helps to dump what oil you can, then fill and drive it around, it will move the fluid around to mix in as much as possible, then dump it.

looks like you got it all figured out now but if you need any info I bought the service manual for my 530 and it is for the 533 as well.

 

[ymurf]

looks like you got it all figured out now but if you need any info I bought the service manual for my 530 and it is for the 533 as well.

Thanks, I will keep that in mind. Now have another issue. When I use it for awhile the radiator starts bubbling and boiling like its hot.The dummy lite dont work so I put a temp gauge on and it does it at around 235 deg, This normal. I have straight water in it, Should I go ahead and put anti freeze in it which I need to do since its getting close to winter? Think that will help? When I rebuilt it it didn't have a thermostat in it so I put one in it but used the old water pump since it seemed of. Any thoughts anyone?

 

[flyerdan]

Thanks, I will keep that in mind. Now have another issue. When I use it for awhile the radiator starts bubbling and boiling like its hot.The dummy lite dont work so I put a temp gauge on and it does it at around 235 deg, This normal. I have straight water in it, Should I go ahead and put anti freeze in it which I need to do since its getting close to winter? Think that will help? When I rebuilt it it didn't have a thermostat in it so I put one in it but used the old water pump since it seemed of. Any thoughts anyone?

A 50/50 mix of water and antifreeze not only provides freeze protection, but boilover protection as well. There should be a chart on the back of the AF jug that lists the boil/freeze values at different concentrations. Also, there is the additive package that prevents corrosion and lubricates the waterpump, so if you have isolated and fixed all leaks, then drain the water and flush a few times if it's really dirty. Fill with AF mix and verify that the thermostat is opening by watching for water flow in the radiator when it warms up enough to open. If it has an overflow recovery tank, fill the radiator to the top and the overflow to the correct level.
What you might consider if you're still worried about overheating is a product called "Water Wetter" from Redline. It's a surfactant that allows the coolant to gather more heat from inside the engine, especially if it has scale buildup.