I got an update on my 453. I fianlly got it all put back together...new rings, new valves, ridge ream and flex honed the cylinders, and the head rebuilt and vacuum tested and adjusted the rocker arm tolerance to spec. Put it all together today and cranked it over for its maiden voyage. However, it took several cranks to get it started and then would run for maybe 5 seconds then die. I did get it to start once and had it idle fine for about 8 mins but then when i went to increase the throttle(it was at like half) then it sputtered and died. I believe it is a fuel problem now because when i squeeze the bulb and check the lines i get good fuel pressure all the way up to the transfer pump. I just replaced this transfer pump before i tore out the engine so i think it is good?? Kinda nice because so far i am into it for just under 1k. But what do you guys think about the fuel pressure problem. When i have the bleeder valve open i should be able to squeeze the bulb really easily right?? Thanks for all the help you guys have given me, it is VERY APPRECIATED!!
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OldMachinist
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Get a clean jug of fuel and drop a supply line to the filter in it, reprime and see if it runs. If it does you know the problem is in the supply from the tank if it doesn't it from the filter to the engine.
With the bleed valve open it won't be real easy to squeeze, you should feel its firm but you can feel the fuel moving too as it squashes down. Listen for air too, i agree a jug or bottle of fresh fuel is a great idea. You then know its not a problem in the line from the tank to the lift pump.Its a shame you don't live over here, i'd have a complete VERY low hour head you could have used.
Did you ensure the bleed screw was turned off after you bleed the system? If its not closed it will start then simply die on you. As you said it ran for like 8 mins i'd think the lift pump is fine, could be the fuel, i assume you are using winter fuel? and the filter is new?
I'm glad you are making progress though, its a good feeling when things start to come together!
Well, i figured out the problem(s)...two seals on the fuel filter,i forgot to take the old on on off...DOIT!!! Also, there is a little ring on top of the injectors that has two holes in it. There is one hole on the top of the injector that had to line up with. This ring is between the injector and the banjo fitting. I dont know what this is for but it seemed to help as well. I got it running finally and it ran for 3 hours yesterday with no problems. Then this morning i went to use it again and it wouldnt start. I figured it wasnt glowing right so i tested the glow plug wire with a volt meter and found out that i had a bad relay. I fix that and it popped right off. Perfect. I used it today for four hours or so and no problems so i think that i have all the kinks out of it now.:>:> I appreciate you guys taking the time to help me on this project and am now currently in the market for another fixer-upper, so hopefully can get something. A side note, when i put everything back together i had to readjust the valve clearances on the rocker arms three times. Is this typical?? Lastly, what is a good price/good second machine? There seems to be alot of 743, and S130s in my area. Whats the difference between the two? Pro\Cons etc. Thanks again. PS how do i post pictures??
Also, forgot to add there is a guy that i know who said he would like mine when i get it fix and possibly trade/trade with cash for a S130 because he needs a little one for getting in small areas. I seen him driving his S130 and using it so i know it works but what should i look for on a used machine that might cause issues down the road.
The valve clearance shouldn't change on you, it may change a touch as the head gasket crushes. Ensure you re-torque it! then check the clearance then it should be fine.
The 743 is a mechanical only machine, the S130 will have electronics. There are pro's and cons for BOTH. The S130 will have more power for the size, the 743 after using a 753/751 i now find under powered. It still does well, but another 15HP sure helps speed up the work.
Its really something you will need to think about and work from there.
Congrats on sorting your problems out.
More on my 453. I had it running for a month and it ran/started really good. Then on Friday I went to use it and it started fine but then after using it for 10 mins or so it strated to run ragged. Almost like it was running out of fuel(3/4 tank). Well, i took off the injectors and brought them to a shop and they tested them and two had bad spray and one was junk. I brought them to another shop and had them rebuilt. I installed them into the machine and now it wont start at all. I know im getting fuel to them because i tested them with the lines all plugged in and not in the block and got good spray so im not sure what is going on now. When i crank it over, it doesnt even sound like it wants to start so I tested compression and got good readings. I then did a fuel filter, oil filter and new oil but still sounds the same. Lastly, I turn the fuel off at the shut off and when i crank it over it sounds the same as if the fuel is on?? I am kinda confused now and wondering what my next test should be. Any ideas would be much appreciated. Thanks alot.
Your fuel shut solenoid is still working?
Do they know why the injectors got plugged? was there rubbish in the nozzles? After so few hours running i can't see why they would block up. I wonder if there is a failure in your pump....
You just can't win!
They didnt say why the injectors went bad. I was wondering about my pump as well but the lift pump is new. I put one on when i rebuilt the motor. (Maybe it wen bad??) My fuel shutoff is a manual pull cable and when i pull it to the off position it moves and then springs back to the on position like it should when i let go so i know it is physically ok but could it be something inside that is malfunctioning? If it is, is there a way to check to see that it is working ok? I was also wondering about a hose that comes out just below the lift pump, it has a valve that is open(I have never messed with it) but then the hose runs around to the rear of the engine and just stops. It says fuel/emission line on the hose but what is this for??
OldMachinist
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The only hose and valve is the coolant drain. I looked at the parts manual to confirm and thats all I saw.
Just to check to see if the engine will fire try shooting a shot of WD40 in the intake and have someone turn in over. It should try to start or at least produce some smoke. If it does then you know for sure it's a fuel delivery problem. If it doesn't change anything I'd be thinking it's a timing issue. Take the valve cover off and see if the rocker arms appear to be working properly.
That does sound like a coolant drain, just below the injector pump?not actually part of it?
If its the one on the pump, that sounds like a bleed screw, it needs to be off or else you don't get fuel pressure. Giving it a snort of ether to see if it fires isn't a bad idea, it will show if its fuel or compression related. Just make sure you go easy on the stuff! Its a shame you don't live closer, i have a spare injector pump here! if thats the problem.
If you remove the tube lines and prime the system then crank it over, do you get fuel from the delivery nozzles? or just nothing?
The hose is not part of the injector system it is just below the lift pump so a coolant drain would make sense but when i tried to turn the valve it wouldnt turn and i didnt want to break it so i just left it. I did try ether and wd40 and neither of them made a difference in trying to start it. Doesnt that seem kind of wierd?? I sprayed it right into the intake and it didnt do anything. And on the valves, how do i know when the cylinder is at top dead center. When i set the valves the first time i took the injectors off and the valve cover and put a small pick in the injector hole and when the piston came up then i kept turning the motor over by hand until the pick started to go back down again and backed it off a little bit. I was also wondering about the timing and wondering how to set it the right way. The way my understanding I thought the piston sucks air in through the intake valve while it travels down, then closes the intake valve and comes up pressuring the cylinder, it explodes pushing the piston down then comes back up opening the exhaust valve. Is this right? So what is the best way to do the timing? Thanks for all the help you guys have given me it makes it alot easier when i have someone to give me ideas. PS. I did adjust the valves when i had the injectors out but maybe i screwed the whole timing up. It would make sense if this can cause the issue. I guess I should have just let well enough ALONE!!
Tazza, I do get fuel pressure if i crank it over and check for fuel at the delivery nozzles.
OldMachinist
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Here's my rule on adjusting valves and it's the way I've been doing it this way for close to 40 years unless I have a manual that says different. You do the intake valve adjustment as the exhaust valve is just opening and you do the exhaust valve adjustment as the intake valve is almost closed.
I looked in the 453 service manual for a procedure but didn't find one. All I found was that the clearance should be .006"-.007" cold. I'd try adjusting them this way and see if it fires up.
Scuba - e-mail me, i have a manual at home that covers your engine i think. I can give you the procedure that i used on a D722 i built up.
The one way you can check timing is to rotate it till you get the piston at the top of the bore but you need to ensure its in the rite stroke. You turn it i think 15-20 degrees back and forth and if the valves do not move you should have TDC. I remember fiding TDC wasn't so easy on a 3 cylinder Kubota but the 4's are a snap!
taz38sup at yahoo.com.au
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