bearing and seal install on 743

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dirttrax

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Jan 28, 2013
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I found this on a post--Pressing the bearings back on the axles can be done with a piece of water pipe and a hammer. Could you explain it more? I also need to know about the seals. I read something about using an old bearing ring, cutting it in half ( moon shaped) using a clamp to place it on the axle and when tightening the nut it will pull itself in place. Would anyone have any pics of this. If I have it right by reading, I can't picture it in my head...maybe there is not enough room in there..Thanks all!! I greatly appreciate this forum and averyone taking time to help others. You all are great!!!!!!!!!!
 

Tazza

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Sounds like that may have been one of my posts.
It really depends on how far in you are. I replaced cups and cones all round on mine. With the axles out, i used a length of solid bar to slide in the axle tubes to strike the bearing cups, got them all out pretty easily. I made a tool to pull new ones in with a porta-power pull ram.
Assuming you are this far already and have the bearing cones removed from the axles and new wear sleeves ready. Find a length of waterpipe large enough for the axle shaft to slip into, it should be a neat fit. Slide the seal over the wear sleeve (if you are going to replace it) if not slip it on right at the bottom. Slide the new bearing cone on the end of the axle, slip the waterpipe over the shaft and it will rest on the bearing. Use a hammer and smack on the pipe to knock it down. It will get over the ridge then slide to the base, i used it like i was driving a star picket into the ground for the bottom one, pick the pipe up and smack it down on the bearing. If you are installing a new wear sleeve, the bearing will seat the sleeve.
Grease all the bearings before installation into the axle tubes.
With all the axles done this far, get an old cup and cut it in half, use a hose clamp to hold it as one piece behind the seal. Install the axle shaft into the tubes, put the chain on the sprocket, then slip the bearing over the axle shaft end, get your helper to push the axle in and engage the splines, there is not enough room to get the sprocket over the axle shaft if it is all the way in. Tighten up the bolt a little use a hammer to knock the axle hom to get it to seal the seal. Pull it back a little and remove the hose clamp.
Not a great write up, but it's essentially what i did.
 
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dirttrax

Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2013
Messages
9
Sounds like that may have been one of my posts.
It really depends on how far in you are. I replaced cups and cones all round on mine. With the axles out, i used a length of solid bar to slide in the axle tubes to strike the bearing cups, got them all out pretty easily. I made a tool to pull new ones in with a porta-power pull ram.
Assuming you are this far already and have the bearing cones removed from the axles and new wear sleeves ready. Find a length of waterpipe large enough for the axle shaft to slip into, it should be a neat fit. Slide the seal over the wear sleeve (if you are going to replace it) if not slip it on right at the bottom. Slide the new bearing cone on the end of the axle, slip the waterpipe over the shaft and it will rest on the bearing. Use a hammer and smack on the pipe to knock it down. It will get over the ridge then slide to the base, i used it like i was driving a star picket into the ground for the bottom one, pick the pipe up and smack it down on the bearing. If you are installing a new wear sleeve, the bearing will seat the sleeve.
Grease all the bearings before installation into the axle tubes.
With all the axles done this far, get an old cup and cut it in half, use a hose clamp to hold it as one piece behind the seal. Install the axle shaft into the tubes, put the chain on the sprocket, then slip the bearing over the axle shaft end, get your helper to push the axle in and engage the splines, there is not enough room to get the sprocket over the axle shaft if it is all the way in. Tighten up the bolt a little use a hammer to knock the axle hom to get it to seal the seal. Pull it back a little and remove the hose clamp.
Not a great write up, but it's essentially what i did.
Will do. Thanks a lot. I am waiting on parts now. I will give it a go and let you know. One more question...How do I get the bearing off of the sprocket shaft that goes in the final drive gear box. I have the outer one off I need the inner one off. Thanks
 

Tazza

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Will do. Thanks a lot. I am waiting on parts now. I will give it a go and let you know. One more question...How do I get the bearing off of the sprocket shaft that goes in the final drive gear box. I have the outer one off I need the inner one off. Thanks
You are replacing the bearings in the reduction box too? or are you talking the axle?
The double sprocket that drives the chains?
 
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dirttrax

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Jan 28, 2013
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9
You are replacing the bearings in the reduction box too? or are you talking the axle?
The double sprocket that drives the chains?
The double sprockets that drive the chains? I I also am doing all the axle bearing as well. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
 

Tazza

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The double sprockets that drive the chains? I I also am doing all the axle bearing as well. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
I was talking about inside teh chain case, there is a double sprocket where one chain goes forward, one goes backward. It's part of the reduction box that the drive motor bolts to. I have done bearings in here before, not too hard to do actually.
 

7LBSSMALLIE

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Feb 2, 2012
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1,294
I was talking about inside teh chain case, there is a double sprocket where one chain goes forward, one goes backward. It's part of the reduction box that the drive motor bolts to. I have done bearings in here before, not too hard to do actually.
743 chain case, if youre doining the labor youreself , (and goining to keep it ) heirloom so to speak, go old school, pull eng and stat, lift main frame off, separtate leavining you with chain case only, sounds like a daunting task but in reality 12 hrs max easy access do it once do it right never again will you be in there. it aint hard to separte you jack unit off pull case out from under it and square it away, this is we used to do it back in the day.
 

woodhick

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Joined
Jul 13, 2012
Messages
19
743 chain case, if youre doining the labor youreself , (and goining to keep it ) heirloom so to speak, go old school, pull eng and stat, lift main frame off, separtate leavining you with chain case only, sounds like a daunting task but in reality 12 hrs max easy access do it once do it right never again will you be in there. it aint hard to separte you jack unit off pull case out from under it and square it away, this is we used to do it back in the day.
Can a 843 chaincase be removed the same way?
 
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