backhoe attachments for skid steers

[TriHonu]

Eric
That would be great/
Also have you heard of mud jacking?
I had a fellow contact me with a conrete mixer/concrete pump attachment that says they bore 1 1/2 inch holes in frost heaved concrete slabs that are no longer level and "pump" them back into position. Any thoughts on this?
www.wemudjack.com
Is his site
Ken

I had a section of my garage floor mudjacked. It is slab on grade with a perimeter footing. It had cracked diagonally across one corner about half of a 7x7 square. When I stripped all the siding and sheeting I wanted to resquare the building. I looked at the cost in time and dollars to jack up the building, bust the concrete, and re-pour.
I got a quote of $300 to mud jack it and decided to give it a try. They drilled a couple of holes with a gas powered jackhammer and fired up the grout pump, but the slab didn't want to lift. After a little investigation we found the sidewalk that goes around that corner of the building had also settled and had the slab wedged in. They drilled a few more holes in the sidewalk, quick jacked it up and then went inside set a couple of levels on the floor and in minutes had the floor slightly above level to allow for a little settling.
The filled the drill holes with grout and troweled them off and were on their way. That was three years ago and the floor is just like they left it.
My neighbor had his entire driveway jacked. It was about 20x45. You have to look close to notice where they drilled the holes. He was also very happy with the work he had done.
The grout is a fortified cement product with fine aggregate. Its consistency is thin compared to concrete to ease the pumping.

 

[CUT_TLB]

I had a section of my garage floor mudjacked. It is slab on grade with a perimeter footing. It had cracked diagonally across one corner about half of a 7x7 square. When I stripped all the siding and sheeting I wanted to resquare the building. I looked at the cost in time and dollars to jack up the building, bust the concrete, and re-pour.
I got a quote of $300 to mud jack it and decided to give it a try. They drilled a couple of holes with a gas powered jackhammer and fired up the grout pump, but the slab didn't want to lift. After a little investigation we found the sidewalk that goes around that corner of the building had also settled and had the slab wedged in. They drilled a few more holes in the sidewalk, quick jacked it up and then went inside set a couple of levels on the floor and in minutes had the floor slightly above level to allow for a little settling.
The filled the drill holes with grout and troweled them off and were on their way. That was three years ago and the floor is just like they left it.
My neighbor had his entire driveway jacked. It was about 20x45. You have to look close to notice where they drilled the holes. He was also very happy with the work he had done.
The grout is a fortified cement product with fine aggregate. Its consistency is thin compared to concrete to ease the pumping.

Here is an update. It seems the hyd breaker needs to be running at max flow rate to be effective. We had been running the engine at 2/3 throttle. At full rabbit, the hyd motor in the breaker delivered more energy to the bit and the 8" stem walls were demolished. The slab has perimeter footers, so the new house will go over that (too hard to remove). We had tried many things before running at full speed: vertical attack with the full SS weight over the bit, horizontally, just an inch or so from the edge, using pre-drilled holes, etc. I would post a photo, but this forum has no obvious JPG posting utility.

 

[skidsteer.ca]

Here is an update. It seems the hyd breaker needs to be running at max flow rate to be effective. We had been running the engine at 2/3 throttle. At full rabbit, the hyd motor in the breaker delivered more energy to the bit and the 8" stem walls were demolished. The slab has perimeter footers, so the new house will go over that (too hard to remove). We had tried many things before running at full speed: vertical attack with the full SS weight over the bit, horizontally, just an inch or so from the edge, using pre-drilled holes, etc. I would post a photo, but this forum has no obvious JPG posting utility.

Jpg photos are fine but we all needed a bit of a lesson to handle it. Either read Erics post under faqs on the subject or email me the photo and I'll post it to this thread.
Glad to hear you got to the bottom of it
[email protected]

 

[kelly_b]

Jpg photos are fine but we all needed a bit of a lesson to handle it. Either read Erics post under faqs on the subject or email me the photo and I'll post it to this thread.
Glad to hear you got to the bottom of it
[email protected]

My friend had his WHOLE house mud jacked as half of his foundation started sinking. Not good! But it worked great and his house is normal again. No more marble racing on the basement floor.

 

[Sonny]

This is the current bobcat system. You pick up the hoe in this position, lock the QA handles down then lift it up and over the hooks on the loader, then let the hoe tilt forward until it catches the hooks from the rear side. The lock handles on each side of the backhoe (not the QA) prevent the hoe from moving back, which effectively lock the bucket tilt cylinder and also holds the loader boom up 4 to 5" for better ground clearence under the hoe.
Ken

The backhoe attachment in the pics looks just like my model 607 I use on my 753. I currently have hydrolic leaks on both outriggers, but can't get the pin out of the bottom to get the cylinder out to see where the leak is to repair it. Is there a 'trick' to it I have yet to discover? The top pins came out easily after I removed the locking rings, but the bottom ones wont budge even when heated. BTW one seems to a bit 'wallered' and moves about 1/4" back and forth and stops dead. I plan to lay the unit over (Monday morning) and slide the outriggers out the bottom to try and find/repair the leak.
If anyone could help I'd appreciate it! While I'm at it.... I've also heard of a 'pressure relief' valve, but can't find one on mine. If anyone knows where it can be found and how it works that would help as well.
Thanks, Sonny

 

[Earthwerks Unlimited]

The backhoe attachment in the pics looks just like my model 607 I use on my 753. I currently have hydrolic leaks on both outriggers, but can't get the pin out of the bottom to get the cylinder out to see where the leak is to repair it. Is there a 'trick' to it I have yet to discover? The top pins came out easily after I removed the locking rings, but the bottom ones wont budge even when heated. BTW one seems to a bit 'wallered' and moves about 1/4" back and forth and stops dead. I plan to lay the unit over (Monday morning) and slide the outriggers out the bottom to try and find/repair the leak.
If anyone could help I'd appreciate it! While I'm at it.... I've also heard of a 'pressure relief' valve, but can't find one on mine. If anyone knows where it can be found and how it works that would help as well.
Thanks, Sonny

I removed plenty of concrete floors, stem walls, foundations, footers etc. in Hurricane Katrina land (MIssissippi) with only pallet forks on an New Holland Ls185.b and steel OTR tracks. The key is getting a bite down along side the concrete. All I did was clear out an area next to the foundation with the forks or a bucket, then drive down with the forks pointed under the foundation. Once under the foundation simultaneously raise the loader drive forward and tilt the forks down. The dirt on the inside of the footer acts as a leverage point for the forks. If you do this enough times the footer will snap in half. Also, I did an inground swimming pool demolition here at home. At the thickest point the walls were 2' thick and have 5 layers of 3/4" rebar. I rented a Bobcat-brand breaker (regular flow) with a 3" diameter bit and it blasted right through it. The important thing about breaking anything easily that is rigid like concrete is that you have to have an air gap between it and whatever it sits on or against. The reason is if there is no air gap the impact energy will not be dispersed into the concrete but roughly half will pass right through it and into the ground, for example. Example: in billiards--two balls in line and touching each other hit by a 3rd ball. The first ball when hit transfers that energy into the second ball which takes off.